Boost Gauge Install

[The Toy]

BOOST GAUGE:

After installing my phenolic spacers i thought i had a boost leak somehwere, so i decided to install an AEM electronic boost gauge for good measure and since when i get my pulley i can actually see the difference in boost level.

HOW TO:
First, i drilled and tapped the y-pipe and installed the sensor with teflon tape. Next, i ran the harness from the inside of the car through the firewall to the sensor. You wont believe this but right to the side of the brake master cylinder there is a factory cut out with a rubber plug. Simply cut a circle in the center of the plug and make a slit so you can push the harness through. Route the harness up through yourfuse box (side of dash) and out the a-pillar (remove the a-pillar first). Cut a notch in the a-pillar for the harness to pass through, and feed the wires up out the dash until you have 5-6 inches. You must now connect the black (ground) and red (power) wires. The red goes to a fuse...i used the instrument cluster light fuse. Just pull the fuse, fold bare wire around the prong and insert it back into its slot. Now take the ground wire over to the 10mm bolt 4" or so to the front and left of the fuse box (there are 3, any one will work). The white and blue wires are not used. Now plug the conector in the gauge and turn on the instrument cluster...voila! Easiest install ive ever done.

REVIEW:
My favorite thing about the AEM electronic gauge is that it lights up red and green, the same color as the stock gauges! On top of that there are no pressure hoses to leak or pop loose. I ended up buying black bolts to replace the cheezy silver screws in the base of the gauge holder.

For more pics and details on the install go here:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...ad.php?t=22150

written by 240m3srt

 

[1bad4dr]

nice

 

[Britny.mark]

HOW TO:
First remove your air intake. Remove the upper clamps in the back of the engine where the y-pipe meets the plenums. Remove the 6 torx bolts on each plenum from the outside in. Twist the plenums upwards and remove them from the engine bay, this will expose the stock gaskets. I cleaned the stuck on gasket pieces with a scotch brite pad. Some of the small pieces fall into the head at the intake valves. I blew out as much as possible with compressed air and didnt worry about the rest. The gaskets must be pre-formed before installing them on the plenum in order to clear the fuel rails. You can do this visually or you can turn the intake manifold upside down and press the gaskets into shape. I also found that using a small bit of rtv/silicone on the gaskets help keep them together in place with the spacer. Upon reinstallation do everything the same in reverse order. Lay the gaske/spacer assemply over the ports. Place the ends of the plenums in the y-pipe hoses they connect to. Make sure the hose clamps are on first but keep them loose. Torque the plenum bolts from the middle outwards. I used a drop of blue locktite on each bolt as well.

 

[NOTPAID4]

I should add this to my SuperCharger 300SRT.

 

[loxmith]

Yeah you should...nothing quite as cool as feeling the boost gauge climb. :bigwink: