Ok, so I'm working up to my wideband install and it's about time to start collecting supplies. Got to get from the 02 sensors up through the firewall, and then behind/through a lot of stuff in the cabin. The wires from the sensor are already wrapped but. So... Some sort of wire ties or clamps? - I assume I don't want to use regular old wire ties right? I figure I'm going to want to use something to keep it in place on the cross member and maybe affix it to the firewall and other places on my way to the cabin. Grommets? - I'm thinking the main harness boot might be a problem and I might go through something(s) elsewhere. Just get the grommet jumbo assortment? particular kind? Tape? - something that's a whole lot better than something else? Clips, nuts and bolts (stainless I presume?). Those fasteners with the ridges that just push into a hole? Thanks for your suggestions and recommendations.
Just so you know Dave, My wideband controller is mounted under the hood near the Master Cylinder. This way you do NOT need to cut a large hole int he firewall. Only need to run the wiring to the gauge through the OEM Wiring hole.
Hmmm, I got lost at the "grommet location"... I assume it's the same grommet/boot shown in the previous pic "access panel removed"? That looks like a LM-1/LC-1 cable in the background of "wiring secured". Add some little red arrows with text:grin: J/K. That's great! I never thought to look over on the drivers side under the access panel. Thanks! Exactly what I'm looking for, some alternatives. My controller is going inside since it's a little square aluminum box with ports for USB, Serial connector, remote control connector. Probably not extremely weather proof and when I want to program it I'll need to hook to it with a laptop and be able to see the gauge display.
Things are looking up. Went to OSH and got lexan and assorted fasteners, washers, wing nuts, etc. (dammit, forgot the grommets and shrink tubing). Checked behind the glove box and there is this wonderful open area to the left of the heater fan. Wish I had known that when I had my alarm installed. I would have had them put the brain there. Takes less than a minute to remove the glove box so easy access to the modules for service and programming with a laptop. 5x7" piece of lexan will lay flat in there. Mount modules on lexan, velcro lexan to carpet and liner that's in there. Easy routing through dash or to console from there. I'm pumped. Wonder if coming up from the sensor through the shifter boot is a possibility?
Thanks Curtis, that makes sense now. That grommet looks split too which will make it really easy. Here's something unbelievable (well maybe not): I go into AutoZone yesterday. "Do you have shrink wrap or tubing?" counter boy: "Ummm, let's look... Nope. All we got is duct tape?" "Ok, where is the jumbo assortment of grommets?" counter boy:"Grommets? Umm, Err, ummm, this is my 2nd week here let me go ask the other guy" counter boy:"He was absolutely no help. Let me go ask my manager" Manager:"You the one that wants grommets?" "Yea, maybe a big assortment if you got it" Manager:"You mean something like this? [holding up up license plate kits with a quizical look] "Ummm, no. Grommets. You know, the round rubber things" Manager: looking completely baffled. "You mean like a gasket?" It dawns on me "You don't know what a grommet is do you?" Manager: "Only grommet I've heard of was in high school football" "You know, if you drilled a hole in sheet metal and then ran some wires through it you wouldn't want the wires to rub the sheet metal 'cause it would cut them right?" "... I don't do any wiring on my car ..." I look at the counter boy. "You've heard of a grommet, right?" "No, I guess my shop teacher just called them liners" Look at other counter boy. "You've heard of a grommet?" "nope" Be afraid... be very afraid...
Quick, I assume you got the Innovate LC-1 sensor? Did you get the LM-1 kit? What options? If not... whose controller did you get?
So I'm stilled pumped but things didn't go so well today. I decided I'd visit a couple of speed shops in the area looking at pod/gauge mounting solutions and see about getting my bung welded in. Didn't find anything I didn't already know about on the pod front... dammit, autometer makes an A-pillar exactly what I'm looking for but only for early model Ram trucks... Now I got to find an early model Ram truck to see if the A-pillar cross section is the same. If it's the type that covers the original pillar then maybe I could cut the ends off and just use the section with the pods in it. The bung installation went even worse. Stopped by a Midas that was next door to one of the speed shops. They couldn't look at it right away but were guessing $80 to $150 maybe. Then I went to Joe's Muffler shop. Joe put it up on the lift and we looked things over. Joe's figuring he's going to have to drop the whole exhaust because he said it didn't look like there was enough room/play to get the cats backed up enough to get them off those long studs on the headers. Joe's figuring a leave it in the morning and it will take him most of the day type of job and estimating around $250 if he doesn't run into problems... Joe's been in business at the same place for about 20 years. Anybody else have a bung installed AFTER they had their Mopar/Corsa cat back installed? It does look like all the joints are shoved all the way in (I didn't want the tips to stick out way past the bumper). I'm not completely bumed since I figure I can install the gauge using the rear 02 sensor while I find a place to install the bung in front of the cats... sigh High point was that Joe's place is in this row of autobody and repair shops and the front place had a Cuda sitting out front. I'll get the pics in the pics and video forum.
Nathan... you haven't been following the odessy have you? haha. I finally went with the PLX DM-100/SM-AFR. Fully programmable OLED gauge! Ultimate coolness. This was my first choice but then I was going to get the LC-1 when it looked like the HawkEye was coming soon. Now it doesn't look like it's going to be so soon so I needed a display gauge. Then I found that PLX is about 10 miles away from me! and they sell out of the office and I was able to go there and talk for an hour or two with their marketing director (small company) and an R&D engineer. So their approach is separate sensor modules and display modules which can be daisy chained on their proprietary serial bus. The DM-100 module can handle up to 4 separate sensor modules. Sensor modules are like AFR, EGT, Fluid Temp (Oil, ECT, whatever). They have a data logger coming soon (of no interest to me) and just released an OBDII scanner module (also no interest to me). So it's a pretty neat, expandable system.
Nope... Must have missed the original thread. Sounds like a really nice system. It is really nice when you go direct and talk to the actual people involved and see their vision. Sounds like a really nice unit.
Yea, it only rated middle of the pack in the Ford Muscle mag's shootout but PLX said the test setup wasn't valid. Said they did stuff like hold sensors up to the gas bottle nozzle by hand and stuff like that. Ford Muscle didn't publish the raw data behind their conclusions. It is easier to setup than Innovates because it's not as picky about grounds and such. Pretty much you just have to make sure you get the + and - right on the power. They also say their algorithms are better and sensor life longer since they are using Bosch's control circuit. Even middle of the pack should be fine for the minimal tweaking I'm likely to do. But... I gotta get a bung installed somehow
Whoo Hoo! I have an extra O2 bung in front of the cat. Was over at PLX and one of the engineers suggested this tiny 1 man muffler shop. Guy has been doing it for years and does a lot of work for various car clubs like wedging headers on things and stuff. He only has 2 bays but one was empty so we just rolled it right in. Same conclusion but different solution. Just sawed the pipe in two right behind the cat. Loosened the clamp on the first joint to wiggle the pipe over to the side a bit and it came out. He cut the hole free hand with a plasma cutter. Pretty amazing. Then welded the bung in, re-installed the cat, welded the pipe, re-clamped and I was out of there for $70. Bung is just perfectly positioned adjacent (round the pipe just a bit) from the front NB sensor. I got the custom gauge request in to have them do a custom gauge display that will match my tach. Unfortunately they only do the analog needle gauges (since they have a tool to automate the animation for that). I want digital in the EVIC area so I'll have to add that myself.
i just need to post in here so that its in my subscribed threads...as i will need this thread eventually lol and for the record i know i can subscribe to it without posting...but why would i do such a thing?
Pohos never miss an opportunity... The custom gauge designer was finishing a custom gauge display to match the SRT-4 gauges. One of you guys submit that? [edit] haha, probably not since we're in a LX forum...
not even one... There was one place (i think from SRT8OC) that made SRT gauges...it just said "SRT" in them...(is this what you were talking about sorta?)...i found out about them when looking for gauges
This is a bit more flexible. The display gauge is actually a OLED screen so you can do pretty much any gauge you want. Not only a gauge but then you can load a background or wall paper. haha. you could have your sig as the background for the gauge. They have a library of custom gauges. Some just custom and some matching different cars. They do requests (sort of). They will make a gauge from a picture. They're pretty much just doing different car makes and only cranking out about 1 every 2 weeks at best. Analog gauge design. For example, they will eventually have one to match the SRT8 but only the analog part. I want digital in the "evic" area of the gauge (just like on the speedo) so I'll have to add that myself. A gauge "display" consists of 100 pics. You'd start with the needle all the way over in the first pic. Then the needle would be 1/98th over in the next pic, then 2/98th over in the next pic, etc. So you need to know the range of that sensor control module and divide it by 98. The 0th and 99th pic would be for the out of range values. On an AFR you might display RICH on the 0th pic and LEAN on the 99th pic. Pretty cool huh? You could spend months designing and making custom gauges.:drugs: You can watch their home page for a while and get the idea http://www.plxdevices.com/ Custom gauge library here http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm100/customgauges.html
dam that thing is pretty dam cool I like that guage. But I just got the aem wide band and will be installing it this weekend.theres no box to mount either.the bung should be cake I worked at an exhaust shop for 10 years ill take some install pics. one question though where can I grab switched power from by the pillar?
You can get switched power right IN the pillar:happy:. I think the acc runs through there. Maybe the Pink wire is hot and ground is black with a green stripe? Somebody permanently wired their radar detector getting power from there. You'll have to check for details but things are looking good.
dam nice I tried a quick fit with the pillar tonight kinda bummed I gotta go get another stock a pillar since mine is wrapped in cf its 2 thick and it doesn't fit. I might be able mod this one to bolt up without a stock a pillar behind it though. I need to verify it its hooked to a 10 amp fuse thats what the directions call for
Uh oh... this guy did it with the right side A-pillar. http://www.srt8oc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3002 I'm pretty sure someone did it with the left side A-pillar? maybe not...? Those A-pillar pull off pretty easy so you could check. I'm also pretty sure the pink is the acc feed and it's also pink in the overhead console. The acc has got to have a pretty hefty fuse on it. What kind of pillar pod do you have? I haven't decided on a mounting solution yet. Autometer makes a pillar pod for MSD for Ram trucks that would be perfect to accomodate one standard gauge and the DashHawk... but only a 2 pod pillar for the Magnum (part# 13006?)
