My srt4 neon i am looking to gain about 70 hp i would like to run 300 hp and i dont know where to start to gain the so if any one could help me that would be great i dont want to go to over board with hp but i would like a little more then stock
There's a couple ways on doing it but a current list of your mods would help but the main thing would be fuel u would need to get stage 2 inj or a return line and also a dsp with a good tune and a decent exhaust and you should be real close or just get some NOS LOL
The Diablosport Predator would be a good start, if you want tuning. It will allow you to adjust your tune as you add parts. Or, since you are just looking for around 300whp, if you just want bolt on and be done with it, you could just get a stage 3 kit. (I've seen a local stage3 dyno 315hp off hom) I suppose it really depends on your budget/goals.
Best bolt on bang for the buck would be a WGA (wastegate actuator) either FM (forward motion) or AGP and an exhaust turbo back or at least o2 housing back. but as lox said budget, goals and how much you want to get into the car would be a good starting point.
The DSP (Diablosport Predator)... before anyone recommends it to anyone please elaborate on it. Because some will be under the impression they purchase it plug in (flash) a tune from it and be good to go... which is not the case. Before recommending a tuning device, first thing that should be recommended is a wideband BEFORE any sort of tuning device. To reach a goal of 300hp on stock turbo, tuning must be done AND you will need a wideband plus supporting mods to get you there.
I feel stupied asking what would a wideband offer or what does it do i can make my car look good when it comes to the motor i am lost lol
A wideband monitors your air/fuel mixtures. You will see a term like AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio's) sometimes on here and its refering to that. Its something you want to have whether your tuned or not tuned. Its a key tool to tuning. I prefer the AEM Uego Wideband since its a gauge (easy to mount) and easy to read/understand not to mention its the 2nd best wideband out there. A wideband is needed when tuning and its something you want to have even after being tuned. Pretty much in a easier term, its a safe way to monitor your engine and make sure its safe by monitoring that you have enough fuel. Here is the AEM Uego wideband I mentioned above from AEM site with description: http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67
My list. 1. Cold air intake - $177 to $250 15hp 2. Solid motor mounts - $140 to $220 0hp no wheel spin 3. Diablo Sport Tuner - $300 to $400 15hp to 30+hp depends on modds (3.5 Mopar stage one - $500) 10hp(?++) 20(?++)ftlbs. No need for a wideband o2 sensor with this since the computer is a Mopar replacement AS LONG AS YOU DON'T CHANGE THE WASTEGATE. Some type of exhaust. cat back about 5 to 10hp o2 housing back 15 to 20hp. WgA - ??hp $100 to $200 hp depends on mods. FMI - ??hp $400 to $1000 hp depends on mods. Bottom line is what you want to do with the car. I have the stage one, AEm cold air, and Full Borla exhaust from Mopar. I dont have to watch my AFR's, i get 30mpg and pull 13's in the 1/4 mile. but that is about 265hp or so at the wheels.
inserts work the same way as solid mounts at around $30 but you still would need to buy a trans mount from a vendor. i had inserts and no hop in the srt but went to solids for the look. my wifes PT has inserts and no hop. if you wanna cheap way to increase your cars performance. boost leak test your car and you'll see some good results at the cost of a few zip ties and a check valve. the stock PCV valve suck. also pick up a catch can. you can get a DIY can at Lowes or home depo as well as make your own tester. catch can http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100027474 find one with 3/8 fittings
I'm just going to go out on a limb and tell you I have a Maxxfab 3" O2 housing and a ported/ceramic coated exhaust manifold sitting in my garage taking up space. I'm just sayin'......since I don't have the neon anymore.....these parts are definitely for sale!
I actually just put my car back to stock so I have the majority of stuff from elders list that will be up for sale once I get pics taken. CAI, WGA, 3" exhaust etc. Let know if you are interested.
Funny that you mention that i have of course kept all my stock parts that way here in Cali i can smog every two years. i just wanted simple blots on for that reason. Stage 1 bolt on, intake bolt on, cat delete bolt on. easy to make changes. Fun easy HP and about 27 to 30 mpgs. My next car is staying bone stock except for springs.
From Modern Perfomance's website http://www.modernperformance.com/performance-upgrade-plan-0305-neon-p-1689.html With all the parts that are available for the 2003-2005 Dodge SRT-4, we understand that it can be hard to decide on what parts to purchase to make more power. Thats why, we have compiled a recommended list of parts for your SRT-4. Because we owned the first 03 SRT-4 in Texas, and have performed over 250 dyno tests on 03-05 SRT-4's testing out parts, we know which parts will work best for you. We have come up with 3 general plans for making more power. Each plan is tailored for people with different needs, noise/sound tolerances, and maintenance. You can follow these plans, or modify them to your liking. We have created this plan to give you a better understanding of what power levels can be expected. Keep in mind when your reading this, that all of the horsepower numbers we are quoting are power at the wheels. NOT engine hp, but power at the wheels. The factory SRT-4 is rated at 215 hp for 2003's, and 230 hp for 2004-2005's. HOWEVER, Its well known that Mopar underrated the SRT-4 because the factory SRT-4's would dyno at 225-235 hp at the wheels bone stock. With most cars having a loss of 13-15% of power between the engine and the wheels its impossible for a car to have more power at the wheels than it has at the engine! First up is the bolt on plan. This place utilizes the factory turbo, and is rated for 250-295 hp at the wheels. Pros- You can buy piece by piece as your budget allows Cons- Youve got to be careful to monitor boost levels Second is the exclusvely Mopar plan. This plan utilizes the factory turbo, and is rated for 250- Pros- Care free, very well thought out performance increases. Smooth power build up. Cons- Higher costs than bolt on plan, cannot make as much peak power as bolt on plan. Third is larger turbo plan Pros- Its time to make some serious power. Cons- Higher costs, time for a new clutch, and its very hard to keep your foot out of the throttle! BOLT ON PLAN First we recommend you start with a intake system. Most intakes we offer will give another 7-10 hp or so. Second we recommend an exhaust. Once you remove the intake and exhaust restriction it will allow the turbo to spool up faster. We highly recommend you use a 3 inch full downpipe and exhaust. Now its time to increase the boost. You cant just put a boost controller onto your factory SRT-4 and expect boost to increase steadily, because the factory wastegate is weak, and wont hold boost. So, you need to first replace your factory wastegate actuator with a stronger actuator like the AGP or Kinetic wastegatge actuator. After you replace the wastegate actuator with a AGP or Kinetic, you can increase the boost that way, and if youd like to increase the boost further, you can use a boost controller. If you want to increase the boost past 16 psi, youll get a check engine code if you dont have a stage 1. Therefore, to richen the fuel mixture, and eliminate any possible check engine codes, we highly recommend you get a stage 1 pcm from Mopar. To further increase your power, we highly recommend a larger intercooler to cool down the heated, compressed air from the turbo. HP levels Stock 225-235 hp intake, exhaust 250 hp intake, exhaust, stage 1 260 hp intake, exhaust, stage 1, boost controller 270-280 hp intake, exhaust, stage 1, boost controller, intercooler 290-295 hp We highly recommend you install new motor mounts like the AGP motor mounts, and we also recommend colder range NGK spark plugs for any SRT-4 thats driven hard! MOPAR PLAN For those of you who are concerned about reliability, who dont want to do much hands on tuning/work or are concerned about noise, we have the following recommendations. HP levels Stock 225-235 hp Mopar stage 2 260-270 hp Mopar stage 2 with toys (with race fuel, on high octane mode) 275-280 hp. Want to make even more power, but are concerned about noise levels, or water ingestion from a cold air intake? The Injen intake is a short ram intake that will provide good power, and is short enough to not have problems with ingesting water. The Mopar exhaust increases the noise level by about 10-12% and provides a nice power increase. You can make even more power by using a new wastegate actuator, along with a intercooler, both are optional. We highly recommend you install new motor mounts like the AGP motor mounts, and we also recommend colder range NGK spark plugs for any SRT-4 thats driven hard! BIG TURBO PLAN For those of you who need more than 300 wheel horsepower, this is your only choice. The factory turbo just cant flow anymore air, and runs out of efficiency past 19 psi, or around 300 hp at the wheels. At this point, you have two options. 1) Use a Mopar stage 3 turbo 2) Use a larger turbo, and manifold like the Hahn Racecraft kits. With option 1, the Mopar stage 3 turbo kits, there is a Mopar stage 3 kit without toys, and Mopar stage 3 kit WITH toys. The base kit makes 315-330 hp at the wheels, and the kit with toys, with race gas and high octane mode can make 360-375 hp at the wheels. With option 2, the Hahn Racecraft 16G kit can make 320+ hp. The 20G can make 360-380 hp or more. If you choose the Hahn Racecraft turbo kit without the port fueler, youll need to create your own fuel system, wether it be the AGP return line kit with RC injectors, or the Apexi SAFC with RC fuel injectors. Or, you could use the AEM EMS for complete tuning of timing, and fuel needs. Of course, with either option, if you have other modifications like intake, 3 inch exhaust, intercooler, you can make even more power. Or, if you want to make even more power, you can add cams, and port the head for additional air flow. Tuning for fuel will make the difference here! Keep in mind, that once you make over 300 hp, your factory clutch will not hold up, and you should replace your clutch to hold all the power your car will now be making. Better motor mounts, like the AGP motor mounts, and NGK iridium plugs at this stage, are not an option, they are a MUST.
a 75 shot will get you there w/o other mods...cheap & easy also transparent HP so no driveability issues.
