Rice plates... Any advantages?

Lower t-bolt on the bigger portion of the coupler pictured. Since the bottle neck was cut kind of where it starts to angle...not a good place. I might be able to reposition the coupler and it would be fine, but thats too much work, specially with no area to work and the chance that won't fix it. I might mess with it another day. It would be fixed if I had a lift I will tell you that.

 

u cant make it tighter

 

Been there done that. Actually tightened it down too tight made it worse because of the angle where the pipe turns as I stated above.
We didn't have jackstands available, plus the garage floor was a sick mess with nothing to lay on. Can you say concrete floor that has never been mopped for 50 years? It was slimy, very slimy. (Friend just moved there so he hasn't had time to clean the floor yet. lol.)

I might mess with it tomorrow but not sure if I will be up for it.

Oh yeah, turbos mounted in the rear are a PITA.

 

wait until if u ever have to pull the stocker out

 

stock turbo sucks ass to take out big turbo is easy to install n take out

 

I like my stock turbo. I plan on paying off the car before I get big turbo. So bump for any answers to my long post. I doubt I will spend money on a PTP charge pipe.

 

I suggest taking the t-bolt clamps off and using worm clamps. Sometimes t-bolts arent' the greatest. If you have them tighten all the way and it still leaks go try worm clamps before upgrading the charge pipe unless you have the money to do so. My car is probably using 3 t-bolt clamps and rest are worm clamps. My experience with t-bolts clamps is they SUCK. They strip/break or still not enough clampage and cause leaks. I had one that came with my new coldside pipe (UPP) and we had it tighten all the way on my intercooler and it just sounded like a shower of air leaking out of there. Put a worm clamp on it and no more leaks from there. Somtimes its best to toss out the t-bolt clamps that are being annoying and just go use worm clamps in replacement of the t-bolts.

If your wanting an aftermarket charge pipe then I recommend CTI's. That is what I have in my car and its cheaper then PTP's.

CTI's pipe:
http://www.customtubesinc.com/catal...id=53&osCsid=29b39ba66d3aa35db457cc45675d6dde

 

Arghhhh I new it. I spent so much money on the right t-bolts too. Just for it to come and bite me in the arse. I know t-bolts blow for the outlets on the intercooler because they are oval... I had a LPP and it came with t-bolts. Put it on there and it gave me a huge boost leak. So I will defiantely keep worm clamps there....

I had gotten n extra t-bolt from when I did the charge pipe mod and put that on my throttle body. No leaks there, probably because it is round.

CTI is having a problem with their site, I was curious to see how much shipping was so I added it to my cart and continued to checkout to find a winddows error screen saying their security certificate expired and to not continue. I could afford that if they use PayPal since I have a decent amount in there but I am trying to think of alternatives. I want mine to work since I took time into cutting it etc. But unlike the stock piece there is 2 places for boost leaks now. The upper and lower t-bolts. We got the upper one to hold but the lower one gave in. So you think switching out all to worm clamps would work?

Did you see that dent on my stock charge pipe? Wouldn't that slow down velocity a bit?

What clamps are you using on your CTI piece?

I found these clamps, they seem a step above t-bolts



http://www.pt-performance.com/showProduct.php?vID=1&cID=1&pID=4&sID=4bb4ea53eaeae3dcd6087058ccb39942

 

The stock hot side pipe is restricted as it is so I don't know if any effects will occur when putting back your old dented one.

The CTI pipe I have as a t-bolt at the coupler and pipe but a worm clamp on the side of the coupler that connects to the turbo.

Those same clamps PTP sells are worm clamps and you can get them at any auto parts stores instead of going through the hassle of ordering them and waiting till they get to you.

Switching out the T-bolt clamps where the leaks are to worm clamps might work. I know that's been my solution and its been working so far. Better seal.

The problem is people who use worm clamps use screw drivers to tighten them then when they can't twist no more and the screw driver end keeps slipping off they give up. Doing that the worm clamp maybe still prone to leaks and not all the way tight. My worm clamps have a 8mm head so I use an 8mm socket with rachet to tighten them till I can't no more without breaking the clamp. Which ensures a better seal and I guarrantee if done correctly there's no leaks.

If CTI's site is still giving you problems I would suggest to give them a call and see what they can work with you on if your going to purchase one.

I would try switching the t-bolts that the leaks are at first with worm clamps before upgrading to see if the worm clamps work. They only cost a few dollars versus the CTI pipe that $1xx plus shipping.

 

Awesome response!

Well its different for me because we got the leak to stop from the t-bolt on the turbo, but the t-bolt on the pipe was leaking like a faucet. Tightening it, untightening it. Same result. I think its due to the fact that where I cut it, its bends very slightly and thats where the coupler was on.. Oh well I will take it off and see whats up.

Such a PITA to get too. I was lucky and did it at college with a lift. Can this job be done by yourself without a lift or do you need help when you feed it up?

I can't wait to be leak free for once. If all else fails I will throw my stock piece with dent back on.

 

You will need someone to help you to get it level right and sealed correctly. I'm sure it could be done with just one person but it might be a pain. Its easier jacking the car up, have one person on the bottom elevating it/lining it up at the bottom while the person on top lines it up and tightens the clamp then the person at the bottom can tighten the nuts all the way and tighten the clamp. Atleast that's the way I found easiest. No problem taking the pipe off by yourself but lining it up by yourself you might need a person to help you to cut down the time. A lift is not needed just a jack and jack stands.

 

Going to do it in a bit! I will take picts of what my current setup looks like. I am curious to see how the clamp and coupler were on to cause the leak.

Edit: Got the stock piece back on

This is what my modified one looked like after taking off car.



This is what the stock piece looks like:

Gives you an idea of the angle with the coupler off...


I took a flash light and looked inside after taking it off the car and you can see where it was leaking. Right where the t-bolt is where you tighten theres a bit of an opening.

For those that are wondering the t-bolt was on straight before boost leak test, but then we tried moving it around to fit the curveature of the pipe. That actually helped it a bit.

 

Just to sum things up:
I ended taking it off and putting my stock spring back in for a number of reasons.

I am on ECU controlled boost. I am running the stock WGA for now.

These quotes were deciding factors:

I did some research and I took it out. For a couple of reasons:

1. I plan on keeping my ECU controlling the boost.
2. I am at stock boost levels with stock WGA


Couple quotes:

 

I also posted in that thread where you got the quotes from. Like I said there, if you run the stock BOV from the TB, like they say not to......it works JUST FINE!!!! I have had mine hooked up that way for 2+ years now. And yes, I have the PTP 8lb spring.