Rice plates... Any advantages?

[StillANeon]

Curious if there is any advantages with the Mopar BOV/ AGP EVM as opposed to just having the stock surge valve.

Are these pieces just for noise?

Full Description

Stage 1 Turbo Upgrade.

Key Components:
• Stage 1 Performance Control Module
• (4) 577 cc/min Fuel Injectors (2003 kit only)

Calibration Features:
• Increased WOT and part throttle boost
• Improved turbo response
• Boost hold feature during wide open throttle shifts
• Enhanced 1st gear boost for a high-performance launch
• More aggressive exhaust note during deceleration
• Optimized calibration for the Mopar Performance Blow-Off
Valve Conversion Kit (P4510548 — sold separately)

Optimized calibration? :hmm:

 

[Goats]

its really just a noise maker really but after time the stock surge valve will leak so alot of times its better to get a block off plate and get a coldside pipe for a aftermarket BOV

 

[StillANeon]

its really just a noise maker really but after time the stock surge valve will leak so alot of times its better to get a block off plate and get a coldside pipe for a aftermarket BOV

Why will the stock surge valve leak over time?

Enlighten me please, I am curious.

 

[Mains]

Why will the stock surge valve leak over time?

Enlighten me please, I am curious.

Poor quality in the diaphram, doesn't hold boost worth a damn at stock anyhow. being on the turbo they heat up easily and warp the metals.

stock they usually leak

 

[Goats]

Why will the stock surge valve leak over time?

Enlighten me please, I am curious.

after time the stock surge plate will warp in between the bolt holes ad theres nothing u can do about it

 

[StillANeon]

Right now I am running the AGP EVM plate. It did not come with a gasket. So I was told to use Permatex Copper RTV. I put a nice thin layer on and installed it. (PITA)

I did a boost leak test a couple months back and a lot of air was coming out of the vent on the AGP EVM plate.... It boggled my mind because I installed it perfectly. But then it hit me... I didn't let the damn RTV cure. You are supposed to finger tighten the bolts and let it cure for 30 minutes. Then tighten them all the way down. I also did a couple WOT runs after install. Not a good idea.

Well I picked up a stock surge valve for free that had only 15k miles on it. I will use Copper "Spray a Gasket" on the thin flat edges when I install it. That might soak up the heat.

Don't really have the funds for a real BOV and UPP.

Isn't it better to have the BOV closer to the turbo like the stock piece anyhow?

 

[Goats]

yea the closer the better but i cant have one now (50 trim)

 

[Dysphagia]

everyone complains about leaky stock surge valves but every car that passed through the ballsdeep garage never had any surge vavle leak problems, mopar conversion or not. its all user error.

back to the OP's question, the mopar conversion wont do much power wise but in theory there is a slight advance when shifting quickly seeing that the hot compressed air leaves the pressure system allowing new cold air to enter.

 

[kingnate]

everyone complains about leaky stock surge valves but every car that passed through the ballsdeep garage never had any surge vavle leak problems, mopar conversion or not. its all user error.

back to the OP's question, the mopar conversion wont do much power wise but in theory there is a slight advance when shifting quickly seeing that the hot compressed air leaves the pressure system allowing new cold air to enter.

Yup sean had a bad leak on his and it was due to improper install.


I am running a forge BOV and what I like the most about it is the o ring seal it has. Never had a problem with it and it has been installed for about a year ~15k miles.

 

[StillANeon]

Thanks for the info.

I am just hung up with what I want to do: Reinstall my AGP, Get the Mopar Rice Plate, Boomba BOV, or just go with the stock surge valve.

I will be installing the Stage 2 WGA this spring and want to get 17 psi out of it.

Any thoughts on what I should do bOV wise without going the hardpipe BOP route?

 

[Goats]

save your money and put on the agp bov with the stock surge valve(its really the same as the mopar) i would suggest getting the PTP upgrade spring for the surge valve cause i had the blue rice plate with the upgraded spring and it never leaked cause the stock spring is only 4lbs vs. 8lbs for the PTP spring

 

[Cygnus]

Mine never leaked. Its all in the install and how you install it. Yes its pretty simple 3 bolts and a gasket but people install these and don't even bother doing a boost leak test or using the proper torque on the bolts.

Blue plate isn't all as bad and like I said I had one in the car in which I installed and it never leaked. I then went with the HKS bov and JMB coldside pipe w/block off plate and only reason I did that was because I got a deal on the HKS bov.

 

[Cygnus]

Also to the threadstarter...

If you like hearing the bov. Then go with the blue plate (mopar bov conversion kit) and upgraded spring from PTP for the stock surge valve. If the bov sound doesn't matter to you then just stick with the stock surge valve until you can go another route. More then likely later on you'll want to upgrade to an aftermarket bov with upp.

 

[StillANeon]

save your money and put on the agp bov with the stock surge valve(its really the same as the mopar) i would suggest getting the PTP upgrade spring for the surge valve cause i had the blue rice plate with the upgraded spring and it never leaked cause the stock spring is only 4lbs vs. 8lbs for the PTP spring

I have the AGP on my car right now. Reading owns you. :beerchug:

What about these springs:

http://forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=050101&product=FMDVTUN

You get 4 for only $15, while the PTP is $17.50.... Difference?

The Green Spring is rated at 5-15lbs Yellow is 15-23lbs... So if I am only pushing 13-14lbs the Green is what I need.... How about if I am just cruising around town and only get on it a bit and push 10lbs while having the yellow spring in there? Wouldn't that hurt my car? I plan to be putting a Stage 2 WGA on my car.. So hopefully I will see atleast 16lbs.. But since its cold out I won't push as much boost.


I actually came across a used Boomba BOV for $60 shipped.... Comes with everything.

I honestly don't care about the noise. So I might just throw the stock surge valve with a PTP/Forge Spring in there.

or using the proper torque on the bolts.

Curious on how you torque those bolts down having the turbo on the car... There is like no space at all.

 

[Mighty Whitey]

Take the turbo out.


THe SCCA Touring SRT4s runs them on a stage 3 turbo, if its good enough for a REAL race car then its good enuough for your Neon.

 

[StillANeon]

Take the turbo out.


THe SCCA Touring SRT4s runs them on a stage 3 turbo, if its good enough for a REAL race car then its good enuough for your Neon.

Runs what? Just the stock surge valve?

 

[Mighty Whitey]

No man the Blue Plate. I thought thats what we were talking about.

 

[StillANeon]

Nah we are talking about all kinds of conversion plates at this point. lol

 

[Goats]

I have the AGP on my car right now. Reading owns you[/B]. :beerchug:

What about these springs:

http://forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=050101&product=FMDVTUN

You get 4 for only $15, while the PTP is $17.50.... Difference?

The Green Spring is rated at 5-15lbs Yellow is 15-23lbs... So if I am only pushing 13-14lbs the Green is what I need.... How about if I am just cruising around town and only get on it a bit and push 10lbs while having the yellow spring in there? Wouldn't that hurt my car? I plan to be putting a Stage 2 WGA on my car.. So hopefully I will see atleast 16lbs.. But since its cold out I won't push as much boost.


I actually came across a used Boomba BOV for $60 shipped.... Comes with everything.

I honestly don't care about the noise. So I might just throw the stock surge valve with a PTP/Forge Spring in there.



Curious on how you torque those bolts down having the turbo on the car... There is like no space at all.

i was telling u to keep it and not buy the mopar
well there is a difference in springs cause if theres to much spring rate the surge valve plate will warp thats why u only use an 8lbs spring(stock is 4 lbs) and not 15 lbs also when under pressure the surge valve sees the boost psi to help hold it close along with the spring and when u shift the sol.releases the pressure to blow it off

 

[StillANeon]

i was telling u to keep it and not buy the mopar
well there is a difference in springs cause if theres to much spring rate the surge valve plate will warp thats why u only use an 8lbs spring(stock is 4 lbs) and not 15 lbs also when under pressure the surge valve sees the boost psi to help hold it close along with the spring and when u shift the sol.releases the pressure to blow it off

Reading owns me. :tropicalwind:

How about the Boomba BOV. I am about this || close from buying it for $50 shipped. He says it has only 2k miles on it and it didn't leak at all. Those come with a 13,16,and 19lb spring. Of course I would use the 13.

Since the boomba piece gets rid of the stock surge valve completely wouldn't 13lbs be okay? Thinking aobut going that route.

2 other options in my head also right now.

1.Reinstall stock surge valve with PTP spring.
2. Get a mopar piece with PTP spring.

I really don't want to mess with the AGP again. Too many headaches with it. Rather heave headaches with a different piece, but I might consider getting the PTP spring and reinstalliing my AGP.