i have an 04 srt-4 with the following mods mopar cold air intake ultimate racing hard intercooler pipes--all 3 pipes stage 2 wga manual boost controller - set at 16 psi with 18psi spike- gettin fuel cut cat-less mopar down pipe borla down pipe back exhaust forged bov i have a walboro 255lph fuel pump to put in and i was wondering if i would be drowning the stock 04 injectors by doing so. do i need bigger injectors and a fuel rail before the pump. i plan on getting them anyway but not in that order. i also plan on getting a stage 2 pcm soon also. any info will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance -zack-
i plan on throwing this in before i take it to get dyno'd on friday, my low fuel light is on and i plan on driving it about another 20 miles-to and from work tomorrow-so the tank is good and empty, i posted in the how to section but does anyone have any tips on doing this, anything you would've done different?
I just posted a good How-to for this. The hardest part is opening the canister. Everything else is cake.
Upgrading to a Walbro 255 is a plus, it would be nice if everyone would do it. Its a cheap and well worth investment. You'll be fine, it won't drown your injectors. Run it low 1/4 or below of gas. If you run it pretty much dry you might starve the pump at start up or when you go to drive to get gas. I've seen it happen. Just be sure you have (2-3) small flat head screwdrivers and the red tab that should have came with you Walbro 255 depending where you got it from because some just sell it by itself and not the kit made for the SRT-4. You will need this to pry the tabs and canister apart to get to the fuel pump. Be very careful that you don't break any of the tabs.
i am assuming i got the kit, it came with the red fork, and a few seals and such, i bought it off a friend with a srt-4, how hard is it to wire the new pump in??
your hitting fuel cut spiking at 18lbs? are those all the mods you have listed in your OP? btw, you have a pm sir
yes i was hitting fuel cut at 18+psi when it would spike, i turned it (mbc) down to 14-15ish with 17ish spike, running fine. i just got done doing the fuel pump it was cake, except for the damn canister, it WAS a PITA lol man that thing is loud now
are you sure it was a fuel cut and not spark plug blow out. i had a simular problem last year and it was the plugs. the car would stumble at 17psi.
yeah, how do you know it wasn't plug blow out? i had a spark issue with my tiburon, cuz my plugs weren't gapped right, when i would hit 12psi, it was like hitting a WALL.
Its spark blow out and not fuel cut. Your running the s2 wga and your on pcm controlled boost so the pcm adjusts fuel accordingly. If your on it WOT and it feels like it falls right flat on its face then its spark blow out. A lot of people on the stock pump that have ran more then 18psi. I ran 21psi spike with a Mapclamp tune on the stock pump. I've felt spark blow out a few times and to fix that is gap the plugs accordingly. Depending on the mods. I've gapped plugs anywhere from .030 to .045. You want the highest gap you can run without spark blow out. So if your gapped at .038 and have spark blow out then you can lower the gap to say .036 and see if you have spark blow out. Lower the gap until you have no spark blow out. I also recommend NGK 4306 spark plugs, I run those in both my wife and I SRT-4's. Her's is a S3 with bolt-ons and mine is a S1 with bolt-ons.
I just changed the plugs to autolite iridium xp's a few months ago. I was running the 4306's and my car fouled them out. ? I have the xp's gapped at .036. Should I go lower? Or try a different plug? She also just fouled out the xp's after about 2 months and they warrentied them out for new ones. So let me know what you think. I have also removed the red and white vacuum lines, don't know if that makes a difference? Should I put them back. If I hit 18+psi it falls on its face and "feels" like fuel cut. Lol. I don't have any monitoring on it yet, I have an a/f guage that aint hooked up yet and its NOT a wideband so its basically useless but I got a package deal from a buddy. Lol
You really don't need the mbc. I don't recommend running it. Uncontrollable spikes. I change my spark plugs like every 2-3 weeks. Yes, I'm probably crazy. But these cars have idle stumbles and misfires so I go through spark plugs left and right. Probably overkill but its re-assurance on my behalf. Your running rich so they will foul out quicker since your not even tuned. Check the car for boost leaks. If your still on the stock pcm then there's no reason to be spiking 18+ psi. The MAX spike you should be able to safely run is 15psi (some say 16). The pcm is probably pulling timing. No CEL's? NGK 4306 do foul out quicker then the Champion's. I've tried Champions including the Hemi plugs to the Autolite Iridiums to the NGK's. Both of our cars like the NGK 4306. Every car is different though. Can I ask why you removed the red and white vac lines?
A friend said that it would remove the overboosting code that I was getting, and it did. Now as far as the mbc I will pull it back off tonight. Any recomendations for the next aftermarket part? Fuel inj. Fuel rail. Stage 1 or 2 pcm. Any input will help. Trying to get faster but also do it safely. Thanks Zack
I got Stage 1 shortly after getting an aftermarket wga because of overboost codes. Stage 1, Mopar claims a 10hp/10tq gain. It has WOT feature and what not. I'm happy with my Stage 1. With Stage 1 you will just need the PCM. If you went Stage 2 you would need the PCM, 3bar Map/Tip Sensors, and Injectors. If its stops raining this weekend I'm doing the common S1/S2 injectors setup and tuning it with an SAFC. My suggestion if your sticking stock turbo and doing bolt-ons would be to get Stage 1 next. It eliminates the overboost codes, downstream o2 cat code, etc. Some also use the S1 PCM with hybrid setups. So I recommend that as your next mod. Your good with the stock fuel rail. No need for an aftermarket one.
so take off the mbc, and put the vacuum lines back on? with just the stage 2 wga and with the vacuum lines on set at 15 i was gettin an overboost code. where should i start. i want to go back to square one. and run safe a/f ratios but also lay down some power. i am supposed to be going to get her dynod for free next friday, they also offered tuning. is there anything that i can tune with the set-up i have? or am i just gonna be able to see my af and power numbers? i appreciate your help figs ohh and the 255lph walbro pump i put in is actin funny, if the car sits for a said amount of time and your turn the key over all the way it doesnt start, unless you press the peddle -gas- but if you turn the key and let the pump prime then it will start perfect like it did with the stock pump. i dont know if that is what it is supposed to be doing? because it is a high flow pump?? lmk again thanks -zack-
Take the MBC off. Since your running an s2 wga it needs to be on pcm controlled boost. The computer will adjust boost accordingly depending on weather changes. On a hot day you will see more boost, on a cold day you will see less. In 1st and 2nd gear the boost is limited by the pcm. There's a couple options as far as tuning device, a mapclamp being the cheapest but I don't recommend it. I will leave the tuning part for after dyno day. You want to atleast get a base on where you car sits now the way it is and then go from there. Try a 16psi spike. I would also reset the pcm after putting everything back the way it was so the pcm can relearn. At first you will get some high uncontrollable spikes. I recommend when you see 15-16psi spike you let off the gas pedal. Keep doing this until the pcm learns and controls your boost. This usually takes me 10 minutes or 10 miles of constant on and off the gas pedal and letting off around the safe spike. I'm not running the s2 wga anymore but I did run it in the past. As far as the pump. I've installed many and I've never ran into the problem your having. My car as well as my wife's SRT-4, you just crank it up like normal. Check the plug on the canister as well as make sure the ground wire is hooked up to the fpr and its got a good connection. No damage to the canister during install right? There was (2) green wires within the canister. Did you make sure you had them right? Also, is your fuel gauge reading correctly on your gauge cluster? Check the hoses as well that went to the gas tank. Make sure there's no leaks and that your not losing fuel pressure.
Yeah I just took the mbc off and put the vacuum lines back on, I am hitting 15psi and it feels just fine. And as far as the fuel pump goes it only did it for the first day or so, maybe computer had to learn? Starts just fine without any adjustments? So you got me? Lol. So I see you reccomend the fuel pump rewire, I will have to do it later this week.
Cool, glad to hear it. The car should be running fine now. The fuel pump thing could have been the pump was starving for fuel at first. That feeling of what you thought was fuel cut went away? I definately recommend the fuel pump rewire. I don't know why I put it off for so long. I should have done it months ago. Worth it!
