No, the NGK's or the Champions should be available at your local Napa/Autozone/Pepboys. Where does the gauge sit when the car is off. -30 vac is excessive.
going to 30 is normal if you were at high rpms and let off the gas. as for plugs, i personally swear by denso's. they're more expensive, but i have found that these cars just like them better. i ran the ngk coppers for a while but i went through them like mad. i can get almost a year out of a set of denso's and no blow out or studder. if you're having issues with plugs and don't mind spending the money, they're a very good choice.
I don't think I've ever seen mine goto 30......but then again, after I let off the gas, I am usually no longer concerned with the boost.....
check your gauge next time you do it, it goes really low into vacuum. 30 is common if you've let of from say 4k or higher.
4306 is the spark plugs I'm using in both SRT-4's. One of them I have gapped at .035 and the other gapped at .032. I've tried many spark plugs and this seems to work best for both cars. But every SRT-4 is different so its more of a hit or miss and trail and error to you find some that your car likes.
The drive is about 80mph so it run about 3grand for a good hour. but the boost gague sits at like -15 vac side. Yea It's done it before after I have ran it hard a few times, but never just from a long drive. I dont pay attention but it drops hard to -30 vac!! It runs fine but if I have a problem I'd like to fix it before I go replacing somthing expensive like a new TURBO!!
yea around there or even -20. Depends on foot pressure I usually don't pay attention when I'm crusing. Is that a problem? I am 100% completely stock right now.
No...it should sit at 20 during idle. At cruise, it could be anywhere from -15 to 5 depending on terrain (or PTB issues....). If it's at -20 during cruising, then you foot is off the gas and your coasting......
if you're at -5 while cruising on a regular basis (meaning not accelerating or decelerating, but maintaining speed only) then you should check for leaks. that is not normal for purely maintaining speed (assuming of course you're not going up hill)
Ok first off the map sensor is a 1.3 bar which means its max reading is about 18.5 psi. Second shame on you psi chick gross generalizations like that are not going to help anyone out. There are so many things to take into consideration with vacuum and boost that saying something like what you stated above is just silly. With the stock boost gauge I idled at -12 but when I swapped it out for an autometer ultra lite I idled at -20 and if I look on my scan gauge I idle at -28. So which is right? The answer is they all are. Measurements are only as accurate as the device making the measurement and where the measurement is taking place. Also you have to look at how vacuum works. At a higher altitude it is much easier to pull a vacuum that at lower altitude mostly due to air density. Plus you are trying to make a measurement of the vacuum of the motor all the way back at the brake booster. Sometimes when I am cruising I pull a -5 other times 0 and I have 0 boost leaks and the car runs beautifully. So is something wrong or are you just generalizing? As far as the OP's question goes I would agree with everyone else (exhaust-wga-s1) with the addition of a couple things. First I am running a very similar setup (thermal exhaust, s1 and agp wga) and the 2 best things I did in addition was go with 1 step colder plugs and swap out the bleeder for a smaller one on the #2 solenoid. Makes the car so much more drivable and allows you to easily use the pcm for boost control.
Yea I figured on it being just a gauge reading problem. Mine reads at like -23 -25 vac on idol. SO.. it's prolly just a reading issue, It runs fine I just didn't want any future problems.
You should be fine. I keep meaning to do a write up but the I am a big fan of the bleeder mod for the AGP wga. If you get one and I haven't written it up yet pm me and I can get you instructions and pics.