Okay... I'm stumped! GT Cruiser problem

Discussion in 'GT Cruisers' started by Bluebeast05, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    Hello all who take a read. :)

    I've wanted to post this for a while, but kinda been busy. Here's the gist of the problem.
    NO boost past 3lbs.
    When I took auto tech, the most important question was "why?"
    Here's what I know.
    2005 PT GT Cruiser, H.O. (SRT4 motor) Stage one w/ blow off valve, exhaust, Manual tranny.
    Happened about a month ago, first my boost went from 17, to 10.5, then waaaay down to 2. :( that's where I'm at now.
    Vacuum (I'm in the rockies) 15.9 (idle) 18-20 deaccl)
    Exhaust temps 1200 (idle) 1400 (hywy plus WOT)
    Coolant temps 199-210
    My fuel injector duty seems fine, except I use to see 20-25, now I only see about 10-15.
    My blow off valve DOES go off, making me believe that I am still making boost, just not gettin' any.
    I've done a boost leak test, (twice, but only intake side not FMIC) fixed three SMALL problems, no help. My wastegate duty cycle seems fine to, opens, and closes.
    :help:
    Any help would be SOOO much appreciated it's not even funny!
    :thanks: all!
     
  2. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    a proper boost leak test means your removing the intake and putting your tester on the turbo inlet and filling the system with air.

    when you fill the system with air it will fill everything between the turbo and the head. you need to watch your boost gauge and make sure your holding pressure and that the needle isnt falling while air is in the system. if it falls you still have leaks. you want to fill the system with about 20 psi so you know there arent any hidden leaks because under pressure all the rubber hoses expand.
     
  3. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    also there is no need to test the intake because its only pulling air and not under pressure.

    We also have a GT cruiser section on this site.
     
  4. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    reset the pcm by undoing the battery for a min and what do u mean by
    how did u test it but ill bet u poped a hose off
     
  5. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    when the engine is cold you need to also pull off the intake and check the wheel inside the turbo for shaft play. grab the nut inside and wiggle it up, down, foward, back and you will have a small amount but if its redicious then you will need to replace.
     
  6. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    WOW! You guys rock! here I was thinkin' it'd be days before I heard back. lol... shows you how much I know. Okay... Lets see... nevinsrt I did the boost leak test with a tester I made, (maybe lame, but it seemed like it'd work to me) So I took off the intake filter, put the tester into the turbo intake pipe. The first time I did it, the tester I made poped out, so I hose clamped it in place. After that, there were some minor leaks, so I figured it was workin' okay. After I was done, and couldn't hear any more leaks, I didn't think to check the gauge... that would have been a good idea. *eye roll* anyhoo, I'm thinkin I did it right, but maybe not.
    Also, Goats I thought about that the other day, removed the neg bat cable for about five min or so, but it didn't affect the symptom. Does this sound like a boost leak? This is the first boosted car I've owned, so this is my first time dealing with these iss-a-ues.
    Thanks guys! ^_^
     
  7. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    oh... ps. I'm going to try it again tomorrow, take a peak at the gauge and see if I missed anything.
     
  8. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    while your doing it today make sure you put it on the turbo inlet by doing it on the intake pipe you have two other lines one to the valve cover and the other that feeds into vac lines. the one that feeds into the vac lines that leads to a 4 way is a factory boost leak i used a bolt and a ziptie to fix that one and pluged it on the intake pipe which is located at the elbow next to the turbo inlet.

    do your check and reply back before we make any other suggestions. one thing at a time that way your not buying things you dont need to fix X problem.
     
  9. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    did you do your test yesterday???
     
  10. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    Lake?
     
  11. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    Okay... sorry about that. Busy with life stuff.
    Yes I did do the test, I found out somethings, and got stumped by others. Here's what I found out.
    The tester that I made, will pop out, cuz I didn't make it right, lol. However, that's it... I got it up to 10 -12 psi (so said my interior gauge,) and nothing... No boost leaks.I posted a picture, (hopefully i did that right) this is what I made, and where I'm putting my tester. Right spot?
    Also I had a thought... if I can get my system boosted to 10 - 12 psi, before my tester popped off... shouldn't I be able to get that pressure before I have issues while driving? :erm:
    *sigh* That's where I'm at now.
    Thanks again guys.
     

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  12. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    little side note. The factory tubes that run into the four way, you can kinda see it in my pic. It's right above the intake, and left of the yellow brake cap. That line I re-did with nylon tubing, (it's where I tapped in for my boost gauge) and is pretty dang secure, complete with zip ties, and hose clamps.
     
  13. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    your factory intake pipe expands under pressure and is not good to use for a test you need to just get a plummers cap from home depo or lowes in a 2" and get 1 valve stem from any parts store and put it in the center of the cap and then attach it to the turbo inlet.

    [​IMG]
    you wanna do this with you plummers cap and fit it to the turbo inlet. ignore the 2 smaller pics and the cap its self is not what you looking for.

    buy this.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    that line on the 4 way to the intake is a factory boost leak and not a good place to tap your boost gauge into.

    above the turbo there is a 3/8 vac line running from the back of the intake manifold to the brake booster thats where you should tie your boost gauge line into. thats where the neon and my wifes PT has their gauges tied into.
     
  15. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    any update!!
     
  16. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    lol... Finally got a chance and enough time to do another test. nevin, thanks for the info about the quick cap, I bought one, and made my own lil test kit.
    Update... Hooked everything up, ready to tackle any hose leaks, or what have you. Turn the pressure up on my regulator, same thing, won't build, and I hear air coming from my BOV...? I put my finger over one of the holes, and there is definitely air coming out from there. I installed the mopar BOV about four years ago... what does this mean!? lol As far as I can tell that's the leak. There's no other leaks that I can hear. I still have it hooked up, and I have the morning off, so I'll see what else I can hear...

    Thanks!
     
  17. nevinsrt

    nevinsrt Getaway driver for hire

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    whats happening is when your filling the system with air its pushing the factory recirc spring open. to equalize the pressure on both sides of the bov you need to move the throttle body butterfly open when you filling the system with air.

    you have to think about being under boost. the throttle body is wide open and all the lines are pressureized as soon as that butterfly shuts the manifold sees negative vacume and the boost pressure still in the pipes pushes the spring so it can vent the excess air and the vacume in the manifold holds the spring up while the excess air excapes untill its equal on both sides then the spring will close the valve. thats the best way i can explain it.

    once you equalize on both sides you should beable to put more air in the car for your test. make sure you have a squirt bottle of soapy water. that will help you find leaks.
     
  18. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    Alright, after more careful inspection... I didn't get much further. *sigh* :dumb:
    Here's what I found out:
    White arrow = the hole on the BOV that I would plug with my finger, and it sounded like it plugged the air a lil bit.
    Yellow arrow = sounds like there is a little air coming from here, however, I can't be sure because...
    Red arrow = as far as I can tell, this is the area where most if not all the air is coming from. The metal rod that the red arrow is touching, gets really close to the BOV housing, and it almost feels as though the air might be coming from where they "meet." Again, I'm not positive, it's just what I've found so far. I don't believe the metal rod is a boost line, so I don't think it can "leak" ... so I'm pretty stumped again. lol
     

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  19. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    wow... that makes sense... (the TB being closed) I'm off to go another round. Be back!
     
  20. Bluebeast05

    Bluebeast05 New Member

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    RED ARROW RED ARROW RED ARROW! lol... Okay, with the TB zip tied open, same thing only more so. What ever that metal rod is, I'm like 80% sure that's where the leak is. I looked and the rod travels to the top of the turbo, so I guess I was wrong, maybe it is related to boost.