That's the graph from a .062 nitrous jet - which is absolutely the jet for a 175 HP shot. There's a number of good jet size calculators out there. Just google "nitrous jet calculator." The fuel jet is less important than the nitrous jet, as you can use the predator to add fuel in addition to the fuel jet, so based on Air Fuel Ratio, you may need a bigger or smaller fuel jet than indicated. I'm not sure, but maybe Patrick is looking at rear wheel horspower, and not engine horsepower? That would suggest about 150 at the rear wheels on a 175 shot. But I'm not sure what Patrick is referencing.
None from me as it's all in theory, only way to tell how YOUR Jeep will do is just get out there and see, I'd imagine with a 125-150 shot you would drop .8 to one full second
Hmm a 175 shot only made 100rwhp difference? I'm not understanding this whole nitrous theory yet??? haha
Yes - in theory, a "175HP shot" increase engine HP by 175 HP. On our cars (the LX's at least) multiply by .825 to get rear wheel HP. So "in theory" we should see a 144 HP increase at the rear wheels. In reality, I got an additional 186 HP at the rear wheels at 4,250 RPM, and only a 110 HP increase at the rear wheels at 5,500 rpm. That's why the whole "100 HP shot" thing is really one huge misnomer, and is misunderstood quite often.
JMATT, The way I read your post I think you are saying that at 3000RPM you get X amount N20/Fuel. When your motor get to 6000RPM you still have X amount of N20/Fuel being supplied to twice the volume of total air pumped thru your engine(3000RPM vs 6000RPM) Here is where the confusion comes in, if thats true and you had a 3.05 Liter engine vs a 6.1 Liter, wouldnt you then see 2 times the power being generated because your adding more N20/Fuel into less volume ??? As far as your Tq/HP, the reason you see a spike on N20 applications is because the initial hit of N20 on the car, you would also see a huge spike if the convertor was to slip before locking when the dyno run starts. I would also venture to assume that the reason your HP doesnt continue to climb has to do with the cam profile. I havent googled Nitrous Jet Calculator but I just checked the NOS and Nitrous Express sites and they list HP ratings within a jet size up or down a jet from what Nitrous outlet gave me. I posted the charts I was given on my other thread. BRB- Gotta walk the moneypit, I mean dog. John
No problem on the advice and install help BTLFED we're here to help, as Steve already said if you buy the FJO from us it comes pre-programed out of the box and ready to install.
Hmm Looks like Im going to be making a few calls to manufactures Tech lines, JMatt I plugged in the info to several calculators on Google and they agree with you. I will post info as I recieve it from NOS,NX and Nitrous Outlet tomorrow. John
Hey John - I hope some of this is instructive. Truth is - you really just need to start small and work up, and keep tuning as you go. What really matters is your 1/4 mile time and mph. It'll all work out for you. You appear to already be well on your way!!! Just enjoy!
John - from my response to your other thread - I believe there are two different numbering systems out there. That may be the only issue of confusion.
Here's some additional nitrous dynos: Let's call the lower pull on this chart, the "ticked off torque converter" Here's a pull directly overlaying a shot without hitting nitrous, then literally one minute later and hitting the nitrous: You can see some spike after the shift. You get the initial spike that's just normal from any shift, then you get the nitrous kicking right back on causing the additional spike. I edit the spike out of the dynos I post, because the number is really artificial.
And here's a traditional nitrous spike. Note that the first graph shows MPH. That's because the nitrous hit causes the TC to flash, creating an instant rpm jump. It makes the graph look really ugly (see the 2nd graph below) - and REALLY show off the nitrous spike.
