New At HHP: 6.1 Forged Rotating Assemblies

You heard it Right...Ready to build up your 6.1? HHP has the perfect kit for you. Brought to you by the HEMI experts at HHP and the top engine builder in the US, Tony Bischoff of BES Racing, our kits are ready to drop in and give you the safe advantage over the competition you've been looking for. Our basic kit will contain the following: Custom replacement Diamond Pistons, Eagle Rods, Rings, Bearings, 6.1 balanced Crankshaft.

Our Price: $2500.00 with crankshaft core exchange

For more information, call HHP today and specify Naturally Aspirated or Nitrous applications. For forced induction applications, please call for pricing.

Thanks
Derrick @ HHP Racing

 

Derrick, can you PM me a price for Forced? And ask Stephanie where my Autometer gauge is?

 

Oh jeeez.......... that's a great deal right there! :drool:

 

If I was going forged....I think I would go ahead and stroke for a 392. It can't be too much more.

 

My thoughts exactly...^^^

 

I will have one of these by next spring!

 

This is for those who wants to keep it a 6.1L but at the same time strengthen up the internals to run power adders such as Juice,Turbo or SuperChargers...This setup is a cheaper route than stroking the motor..Stroking a 6.1L is way more than $2000-$3000 grand...

 

You and me both,this and a roll cage Right....:thumb2:

 

even before the cage???? hehehehehe

 

We already have a forged crankshaft. So you're package is rods, pistons, and rings with a balanced stock crank? Why is a 392 rotating assembly significantly more? All you would need is shorter rods and a stroker crank. The 392 build off of a 6.1L is a straight stroker motor, no boring required.

 

The rotating assembly, pistons, rods, crank, have to be balanced as a unit. The increased cost for the stroker is you have to have a stroker crank which costs more than a stock crank.

This is a great deal by the way.

 

I know that everything needs to be balanced together. Maybe in the big scheme of things I just don't see the extra cost of a stroker crank as a big expense. To me, it seems stupid NOT to do it if you're replacing your rotating assembly anyway.

Yes, the 6.1 rotating assembly is a great price - it just seems shortsighted when you could have a 392 for the same labor and few hundred dollars more.

 

Thanks Hal...:thumb:

 

Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions or if something just a seems a little shortsighted to you... Toll Free: (888) 894-1115

 

I might be wrong with newer motors but with older stuff my stroker crank for my chevy builds have been roughly the same price no matter what the stroke. Whats the diff in price for the 392 crank vs the 6.1 crank? I am curious cause I would like to at the least change the pistons since they are the weak link in the 6.1. But if the crank is close in price I would do that at the same time. Thanks

 

The 6.1 block need to be machined for the crank on a 392 assembly.......otherwise the rod caps will be slamming into the oil pan rails and the bottoms of the bores.
The fact that we get to use the 6.1 crank as a base saves a ton of money.
From what I have priced I can do an unbalanced 392 rotating assembly for about $2500 with a decent piston......the Ross piston IMO is an excellent piston.....I have used them on my early Hemis.
Then you need about $1k to $1500 worth of machine work.
This kit can be installed right in the garage by someone with some experience with nothing more than a quick hone to knock the glaze of the cylinder wall........again IMO.

 

Erik, the block needs to be machined even with the Mopar 392 crank? I had been told otherwise by some people at Mopar at SEMA.

 

Well,your either gonna get your CI by bore or stroke.Every stroker I have ever seen needed machine work to clearance the block.......I could be wrong but i would have to imagine machine work being involved since the throw of the rod will be greater.

 

I havent opened the bottom of one of these yet. Erik does it need room along the cylinder wall? I know the last stroker motor I did needed minor work to clear the ARP studs on the rods...Thanks for the heads up.

 

I don't know guys.....I am basing my opinion on other motors I have done.Maybe Josh will be able to answer these when he gets on.