Install/ change rear springs/struts/coilovers This can be used if you’re going to lower your car or change out your struts for some better ones, or upgrade to coilovers Support car up on jack stands/blocks and remove tires (You can also do it one at a time if all you have is one jack or block) Start by removing the 3 bolt on the strut tower Remove the rear brake caliper 2-10mm bolts Remove the Swaybar endlinks Next remove the 2 18mm bolts that hold the strut Now the easiest way to get the bolts out is using a hammer and a punch Now pull out the whole strut/coil Also some help from a screw driver (If you’re changing to Coilovers this is where you would start you reinstall) You will now need a spring compressor (this can be rented from your local parts place ei. AutoZone, Pep boys Im using a shop spring compressor Remove the bolt on top this is a 21mm Make sure your holding the bottom of the strut when taking the bolt off because this could fall off, set the top aside and remove the strut front the coil spring (If you changing springs this is when you would do it) Now replace the Strut/top and bolt Release spring and remove Stick strut/coil back on car What you want do when you first get it into place which makes it easer is stick The 3 top bolts through the bolt holes, and use a block, hammer, something to help hold up the strut while you get up and put a nut on the strut inside the trunk Now put all 3 bolts on and half tighten you will need some slack to move the strut (Now take a breather) Reinstall the 2 bolts and endlinks and rear caliper Now tighten the strut tower bolts This was done by 1 person, but 2 makes it easier Good luck!!!
If you have help with another person installing the springs you will not need a spring compressor. This is if its you and someone else doing the job. If your by yourself then use a spring compressor. Lay the strut down, have your friend step on the center/end of the strut while you unbolt the center nut on the strut on the top hate. Take the spring out, put in the new spring, line it up, push down on the top hat compressing the spring while your friend puts the nut back on hand tight and then take the impact gun and tighten it up. That's how my car was done and another car that was there for the install day at a friends house.
Air tools help alot most of the stuff had to be done with one hand and im 80% disabled mostly towards the left arm so if i can do it you all can :grin:izza:
So the caliper doesn't need to be taken off for the front, just the rears? I am guessing you didn't have the ebrake up when doing this job or the caliper wouldn't have came off? What size is the bolt on the endlinks? I remember when I did my rear struts on my 01 Neon with rear drums, I had to put a damn jack underneath the new strut to line up those holes for the bolts.
You have to take the rear calipers off to access the strut bolts the E-brake has its own set of Shoes inside the rotor so you can have the E-brake up and still take off the caliper. and to see what im talking about look at the HOW TO ADJUST E-BRAKE for pics of what im talking about stock endlinks should be 13mm top and bottom energy suspention endlinks are 14mm its easer when some one helps you but it can be done by your self.
Found the torque specs: FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE DESCRIPTION TORQUE STRUT ASSEMBLY: Tower Nuts 34 N·m (300 in. lbs.) Steering Knuckle Nuts 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) + 90° Turn Strut Shaft Nut 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.) REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS DESCRIPTION TORQUE STRUT ASSEMBLY: Tower Attaching Nuts 34 N·m (300 in. lbs.) Knuckle Attaching Bolts 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.) Strut Assembly Shaft Nut 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.) Brake Hose Bracket Mounting Bolt 31 N·m (275 in. lbs.) Disc Brake Caliper Adapter Mounting Bolts - SRT-4 104 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) Disc Brake Caliper Guide Bolts 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.) Disc Brake Caliper Guide Bolts - SRT-4 35 N·m (26 ft. lbs.) I am guessing those are the ones mentioned. :smart: Be a good idea to get shorter endlinks too depending on your drop...
