Alright I do not own a Caliber, but I helped RobDGAF put his Mopar Stage 3R coilovers in the other night. Install was pretty straight foreward, but we took some pics because he mentioned some people were asking for them. Fronts: 1) Open hood. 2) Loosen all lugs on both front wheels. (You will need to do something to keep the wheels from turning. Apply brakes by pumping, or leave a little bit of weight on the wheels before fully raising them off of the ground.) 3) Finish jacking vehicle and support with jack stands. 5) Take off both front wheels. 6) Remove one 15mm nut on each side for both sway bars. (Circled) 7) Remove lower of the two 12mm bolts on forward side of strut. (Circled) 8) Remove lower clevis bolts. (Circled) Use a 21mm deep well socket. Once the nut is off, hand thread back on and bang them out with a hammer. Once the bolts pop free, remove nut and remove bolt. 9) Now go to the engine bay. With someone supporting the strut from below, remove the three nuts holding the strut to the body, then remove strut. Once the struts are out, you are going to have to re-use the stock top hats. To do this, you will need to disassemble the stock strut using a spring compressor. If you do not have one, I recommend not to try this. You can rent one at Autozone though. Installation is reverse of removal. It's a lot easier to do them both at the same time because when you have both sway bar end links disconnected at the same time, you're not fighting the other side. Take note that the Mopar coilovers have a slot in the upper of the two lower clevis bolts. This should allow you to dial in upwards around -2 camber all the way to some positive camber. If your toe is set correctly, camber won't have too much affect on tire wear. Just make sure its the same on both sides, whatever you set it at. If anybody has the torque specs please let me know and I'll be glad to add them, as I'm a strong advocate of properly torquing things. Please let me know if you have this. (They are on the instructions, but I don't have them with me.) Rear: Your going to have to access the top mounts by basically disassembling the rear inside. I didn't pay attention to this and hopefully RobDGAF will chime in and we can add it to the beginning of this. So from this starting point, we'll assume the top bolts are accessible right now. 1) Raise rear of vehicle with e-brake on. Support on jack stands. 2) Remove wheels. 3) Remove nut on sway bar end links. (Circled) 4) Remove 18mm nut/bolt combo on bottom of strut. (Circled) 5) Go to inside of cabin and remove two 15mm nuts. (Forgot to take a picture of this, but very easy.) 6) Go back to the strut in the wheel well and you have to first lower the strut some, then angle outwards to remove. It's a little tricky but have an assistant push down on the rotor, which will allow more room for the top of the strut to clear the frame. Installation is reverse, but you must also re-use the stock top hats with the rears also (Use spring compressor!). Furthermore, there is a few important notes here: 1) Transfer washer from stock strut rod to coilover rod. Just let it slide down until it can go down anymore. 2) Install the stock top hat. Install the beveled washer with the bevel facing UP, then install the supplied nut that came with the coilovers. There is also a secondary lock nut as well. Don't put this on until the first one is tight. 3) Set your desired compression rebound at the top of the strut by turning the allen key counterclockwise for softer, clockwise for firmer. Then install the "condom" on the top of it, which is supposed to protect this part of the coilover from the elements. 4) Once you work the coilover back into the vehicle, finger tight the top two nuts, and the single 18mm bolt at the bottom. 5) Install and torque the sway bar end link nuts. 6) Install wheels. Torque to 90 ft lbs. (I always do 90 despite FSM saying 100 because too many studs have been snapped in the past.) 7) Lower vehicle - check ride height. If you don't like it make your spring perch adjustments here. Be sure to take weight off of coilovers when adjusting but raising vehicle again. Once your happy, proceed to step 8. 8) Tighten the upper two 15mm nuts inside the cabin. 9) Tighten the 18mm bolt at the bottom of the coilover. 10) Re-assemble the interior. Yes, step 9 is a pain in the ass, but if you want to do it right, then this is the way to do it. The best way is with an alignment rack so you can get to it easy. Or I guess you can back up on some ramps. I'll get you guys the torque settings as soon as I find them, or when somebody sends them to me. Hope this helps.