Changing Front/Rear Brakes Front brakes Remove tire Use 12mm wrench or socket and remove The brake caliper and set away where it won’t hang on the brake line I usually hang mine on the coil spring Take the pads off and replace with new ones Uncap the brake fluid cap Use a C clamp and 1 old pad and depress the caliper Recap brake fluid cap (If you removing the rotor you will need to remove 2-18mm bolts on the caliper bracket) Installation is reverse as disassembling. Once finished installing Pump brake to set the brake pads to the rotor Then start the next set of brakes. Rear brakes Remove tire Use 10mm wrench or socket and remove Use a screwdriver and pry off the first pad Uncap the brake fluid cap Use a C clamp and depress the Caliper with brake pad on Recap the brake fluid cap Remove the pad and replace with new pads (if your changing you rotors this is when you would do it) (its also a good idea to have your New rotors turned before installing them, the factory who makes them does a decent job but all the rotors ive seen over the years and far from perfect some have small worps) Installation is same as disassembling. Once finished installing Pump brake to set the brake pads to the rotor Then start the next set of brakes. IMO you should use Hawk HP+ brake pads and Motul RBF600 DOT 4 Brake fluid they squeek but have Awesome Stoping power and the fluid has a boiling point of 312 C / 593 F with factory brake lines Sorry i forgot the Camera when i did this :no: Good luck!!!
How about a How-to on how to bleed the brakes? My fluid is filthy, never been flushed since I had the car. My guess is to start from the farthest point away from master cylinder: pass rear, then driver rear, then pass front, then drivers front. Have someone open up the bleeder farthest away of course. Pump break down, have friend open it up and pedal will go down farther. Keep holding it until he says bleeder is back on. Repeat process with others keeping an eye on the master cylinder and making sure there is fluid in it at all times. Should the cap be off when doing this?
the next time i bleed them is this weekend or next. so i could write up a how to with pics. and the cap should be on when bleeding only take it off when filling.
Pictures! http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2697 It's for the SRT-10, but most of it applies to the other SRT vehicles.
good write up. a few points to make it easier to bleed breaks.... 1. install some speed bleeders. makes life much easier next time you have to do this. 2. use a different colored fluid so that you can see where the old fluid ends and the new fluid begins. i go from red to blue and back again.
