HOW-TO: Boost leak test

Dysphagia

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HOW-TO: Boost leak test

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OK, if you refer back to the Air box thread, you will see what to do to take off the intake pipe. Do that.

Now, there are different types of boost leak testers out there, they are very easy to make yourself and don't cost very much. The type I chose to make uses a standard compressor quick connect make fitting, and relies on a pressure regulator to maintain pressure from the compressor. I like this style because it maintains constant pressure and is very easy to set and work with. So, to get this started, you need your boost leak tester, 8mm socket, very soapy water and some small zip ties.
DSC01176.jpg

DSC01176.jpg


Install your boost leak tester and position it so you can get a hose attached and tighten the clamp.
DSC01177.jpg


Next put something in the hose from the side of the intake pipe to block it off. A 3/8" extension seems to work fine.
DSC01179.jpg


Go ahead and adjust your pressure on the regulator. You want to be a few pounds over what your car should be making, in my case stock spikes 14psi, I set it for 20.
DSC01178.jpg


Hook up the air line and verify the boost on the vehicle's boost guage. (The test vehicle has a broken boost guage so the readings are incorrect)
DSC01180.jpg

DSC01181.jpg


Listen very carefully for any air escaping from the vacuum lines, pressure pipes, anywhere . If you hear anything, saturate that area with the soapy water and look for bubbles.
DSC01184.jpg


Most of the time, a boost leak will look something like this (to the left of the boost leak tester, the stock BOV leaking boost)
DSC01186.jpg


Once you have identified your boost leak, de-pressurize the system, make your repairs, and test again.

Some of the most common plases to look will be:
your intercooler piping on both hot and cold sides which can be fixed by tightening the clamps or replacing with a t-bolt style clamp
your vacuum lines, especially on the throttle body which can be fixed with some small zip ties
your factory blow off valve which can be fixed by removing, applying a thin layer of copper RTV around the edges and replacing.


Here's a picture of the lines that were leaking during this test, which was solved with zip ties
DSC01185.jpg
 
Don't forget the charge pipe that mounts under the turbo. Probably considered as a "hotside pipe" Thats where my leak is. lsgkaslglasdlk;gl;

How long is it supposed to hold pressure?
 

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