help.. tryin to do springs.. total night mare

what's wrong with the cold-side pipe? i plan on running it on my set-up this year and i'm aiming for 130+ mph traps & hopefully high 10's or low 11's ... with the OBX pipes

not quite sure what they're made out of ...

but do a boost leak test with the stock pipes & you'll see them expand... then do a boost leak test with the OBX pipes & they don't expand at all (nothing visible atleast)

 

Hmmm, won't random zip ties around the stock pipe fix them from not expanding? I do drive a Neon after all. lol $$$

 

you know what's funny, i was thinking about that the other night ... i bet you could put some random zip ties all over the pipe to keep it from expanding ... or better yet you could buy like 5-6 2.5" worm clamps for each pipe (hot & cold side) and place them spread out over the pipe

 

i just seen some leak and there a pain to keep them from leaking at the iat senser cause u need to use like zip ties to keep this thing in well on this one atlease thats cool your not having a problem
oh ant the stock one is rubber and a plastic with a plastic clamp just like on the charge pipe

 

I think I will do that tomorrow with the zipties. My friend works for time warner cable and I get a bunch of em for free. So uncommon, you are running hardpipes for the cold side as of right now?

 

i have the OBX hot & cold side pipe right now on my car ... and i plan on running that for good

the best thing about them is they fit perfectly ... all of the other hard pipes i've ever owned had major problems installing them & lining up properly which would cause boost leaks ... with these pipes they pop right on in under 10 seconds

IMO, silicone pipes > agp hard pipes > every other set of pipes out there ... the agp pipes pop right on also & they also come with a screw in IAT which is definitely a plus

 

Nice, sounds like you have been to one side of the road and back many times.

Since you are running an aftermarket turbo you are running an aftermarket BOV. They make flanges for silicone pipes? :shok:

Alos where do you get these OBX pipes. I had a JMB hotside pipe and it caused a boost leak. t-bolt clamps suck on the stock hot side part of the intercooler do to it being oval.

 

they actually do make flanges for them ... i'm actually running a 1g dsm BOV on my hot side pipe.... so essentially my hot-side pipe is setup just like your "average" hard pipe because i have it cut in the middle with the pipe adapter & 4 clamps total ... still no boost leaks though & it fits like a glove

if i did it again i would have mounted my BOV on the (hot) charge pipe off the back of the turbo to get it even closer to the turbo & to keep it on a hard-pipe opposed to cutting my silicone pipe

i got my OBX pipes on ebay for $160 shipped

 

All I see is a Perrin cold side pipe and its $170 shipped. boooo

Nevermind.

Bingo:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-...209507922QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200209507922

Looks jsut like the Perrin plus you get a hotside pipe.

Interesting. I never heard of anyone running their BOV before their intercooler on these cars. I guess its more effecient noteing the stock surgevalve is located right on the turbo.

Do you have an aftermarket charge pipe? I am running the CTI charge pipe on my stock turbo, fits great.

 

here they are:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-...010QQitemZ200209507922QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

yeah i'm running the same pipe (cti) but it's a little different than yours since i'm running an aftermarket turbo (non-agp so no 90* elbow on the compressor housing) ... but mine fits perfectly too

the only reason why you haven't really heard of someone running their BOV on the charge pipe coming off the turbo is because it's hard to get it to fit ... i've seen it (hks bov) on a couple cars & it fit quite snug to say the least

i really wish that's what i did ... i've contemplated swapping out my cut hot-side pipe for a new one (uncut obviously) and moving my bov to the charge pipe off the turbo ... i'm not sure i'd be able to get it fit now though as my new tubular manifold is going to fit differently & i think my charge pipe is going to be modified/shortened to get it to fit

 

Would be hard. You would have to make a hole and weld a flange on your chargepipe, I know on my stock turbo there is hardly any space at all in that area. Unless you mounted it under the car on the side of the pipe...

Curious, how long did you rock your stock turbo for?

 

i had the stock turbo for the first 2 years i had the car (which i've owned the srt for 4 years now) .... then i went agp 50 trim, then agp 3147, then 60 trim with agp mani, o2, etc. and now a 60 trim with CTI tubular mani, 3.5" o2, 3.5" dp ... the car's actually at CTI right now getting it fabbed up then he's going to start selling them to the public

 

Wow!

Is it your daily driver?

Car looks great in your sig. VEry clean and subtle.

 

your a nut... ^^^ lol..

seriously, whenever i have questions about upgrading stuff, your getting a PM.

next thing i am going to look into are the OBX pipes to replace the stock poo.

can you post a pic or thorough explanation of how you put the pipe adapter into the cold pipe? i have never attempted to cut up a silicone pipe before and don't wanna have a possible leak.

im just kinda unsure on how that would work.

what is your opinion on getting the car to keep a steady boost through the rpm band at WOT. i have heard it has to do with the PCM, heard its part wastegate, and part BOV.

 

It has one already. Click the link. (Referring to BOV flange)

 

is that a BOV flange, or is it a spot for soem type of sensor.. i haven't really looked at the stock pipe too much.

 

yeah it's my "daily driver" so to say .... i don't drive the car that often but i take it out on the streets all the time

all you have to do is cut roughly 2" out of the center of the pipe, it's not hard at all .... the agp adapter pipe is about 5-6" long, & the bov flange is going to be about 1.5-2" in diameter .... you need enough of a gap in the silicone to "clear" the flange so that the pipe will be the same length when you're done

the only way to keep steady boost on the stock turbo would be to get off pcm-controlled boost and pick up a forward motion WGA ... the FM WGA is the only wastegate that can hold 18-20 psi at redline ... FM wga + hard pipes or silicone pipes + no boost leaks - pcm controlled boost = steady boost (for the stock turbo) ... or you could just go big turbo & it would be even steadier

 

how would i get away from pcm controlled boost?

my last car (tiburon) didn't come stock turbo, so when i boosted it, i didn't have to worry about my ECU with the management setup i had.

what is the way to trick the PCM that it thinks everything is fine (boost wise, but still push a constant pressure.

ahh, so the obx pipe will have a section out of it and use one of those adapters. i got ya now. i was thinking more of a fitting that was put into the charge pipe for some reason.

im not really looking to hold 18-20 psi at redline. i would be happy holding 15-16psi at redline. im fine with the power the car is presently at (its my DD, family car, grocery getter, kid kart, etc.)

i already had my fun with my project tib, and i am wanting to keep away from turning my only vehicle into a big project.

 

If you want to hold that at redline you better be looking at an s3 trubo or better. I think if I remember right, the max boost at redline at this alt is like 11.5ish. you really should be shifting around 5k which will have you in the area of 13-14 max on the stock turbo. PCM controlled boost really isn't that bad. In this video, the white car has s2 wga on pcm control with a turbo back exhaust vs the orange car with an agp on mbc and cat-back exhaust. Don't think that you need huge amounts of boost from the tiny stock turbo to be fast, there are a lot more factors and the PCM takes care of those, not to mention the driveability in terms of regular driving and launching and such is much better under PCM control.

[media]http://youtube.com/watch?v=I8Z7ie-7YDg[/media]


As for the stock surge valve, I've boost leak tested numerous cars on 25psi and have never seen an issue with the stock surge valve leaking much of anything, and if it was, it was nothing a couple dabs of rtv couldn't fix. I have however seen a ton of issues from the garbage aftermarket piping that most people end up with to get their little ricer BOV's on the car.

 

ahh mighty whiteys car.. soo sexy.. so he is PCM controlled with s2 gate.. what other mods does his car have (performance wise) ive only seen a few pictures of it.

i was looking at a s2 gate thread, i think it was on here, and it seemed like people were having some issues with it.

is he running any type of piggyback to get that type of power?

im not sure if i do have boost leak or not, but i am going to look into a check valve, and take off the ricer plate and see if things get better.