help.. tryin to do springs.. total night mare

Discussion in 'Wheels, Tires, Suspensions & Brakes' started by turbosocks, Mar 22, 2008.

  1. Cygnus

    Cygnus Platinum Supporting Member

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    Hahaha I didn't realize you only had one side jacked up. Your suppose the have both sides in the front jacked up. No wonder you were having a hard time.

    You also don't need to compress the springs after you already installed them on the struts.
     
  2. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    yeah yeah yeah.. i know that now lol..

    i just figured since i did other cars like that, this one would work the same.. but then i realized all the other cars i worked on had strut attached to sway bar, so with endlink off, it was like sway bar was not even there.

    dammit.. no wonder the rear was so easy and the front was so hard.

    ill finish it up tomm. after i get out of work.

    thanks guys for the help.. im just retarded.
     
  3. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    Never heard of someone doing one side at a time. lmao.
     
  4. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    i have a feeling you guys will never let me live this down lol..

    yeah, i dont even know what my reasoning was to try it that way HAHA. guess cuz thats the way i have done it before..

    o well.. ill get the car all fixed up tomm. and probably buy her some new shoes..

    been lookin at these.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    im not really feeling them besides i like stuff that the factory should have done things like little changes besides what color is your car
     
  6. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    car is white. i was going to get the stock wheels coated, but it will cost almost as much as those rims..

    have very few mods planned for the car after the suspesion is done.. going to go with a DIY front lip, still debating on the spoiler on or off, GTS tail covers, better WGA, and OBX charge pipes. also possible forge BOV to replace the mopar plate.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2008
  7. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    get rid of the blue rice plate and get a BOP and a real BOV
     
  8. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    yeah.. i hate that damn thing.. i hate the stock boost also.. i cant STAND spiking at ~15, then hearing it vent off and go back to 10.. so annoying.

    i haven't heard much about the forge BOV replacement, but ill have to search into it.. the charge pipes that i will be getting don't have a BOV port, and the perrin one is damn expensive. if i can figure out a way to put a perrin BOV into the OBX pipes, thats what im doing for sure if the forge BOV doesn't seem good enough.
     
  9. The ///Man

    The ///Man ME>GOD!

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    LOL, why is that, I'm more than curious what the reasoning behind this it.


    In all actuality, the stock bypass valve is more than sufficient for any of the stock type turbos. All you are changing is the little ricer song your car makes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2008
  10. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    the stock surge valve is very prone to leaking the surge valve case itself is a thin stamping and will warp and will cause a boost leak the blue rice plate is fine but its the surge valve itself is a POS
     
  11. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    Hmmm. I am running the stock surge valve. It is indeed a thin piece, but I don't know how it will warp from the heat. Mopar made it and I doubt its inferior...

    Got any pictures or posts from others who had them warping?

    Well the Mopar piece utilizes the stock surge valve, so that makes the Mopar BOV a POS?

    What hardpipe BOV combo are you running Chris? I have some extra money and might actually go to the BOV/BOP route. Not sure since a hardpipe combo actually makes 3 more places for possible leaks.
     
  12. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    well it happen to a couple people i know first hand and i have the AGP coldside pipe with screw in IAT senser with the HKS SSQ (new style)
     
  13. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    i will most likely just be replacing the stock surge valve with the forge one.

    the car came with the blue ricer plate. i would have never put it on there.. makes it too loud and more prone to leaks (adding another flange)

    also, i want to change the wastegate because of how it functions.. i just cant stand how it starts opening so soon, then drops off.

    we will see how it all works out though..

    def. at least getting the OBX silicone pipes. not a fan of 'hard' pipes cuz it adds more spots for leaks. with silicone charge pipes theres almost no possibility for failure. (only 2 clamps per pipe instead of 4)
     
  14. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    T-bolt clamps are your friend and the silicone cold side pipe the IAT senser is prone to pop out and i never had a leak with my AGP pipe
     
  15. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    Hmmm OBX is the same as Perrin correct? But a silicone pipe can collapse under boost. What WGA do you have on the car? The stock one? The stock surge valve bleeds off boost as a safety feature. I posted it in that Stage 2 WGA thread of mine somewhere. I am actually tempted of putting my stock WGA on and wait til I get a alchy/water/meth injection to help the EGT's when you are running higher boost so the engine doesn't pull timing by bleeding off boost.

    Don't get the Forge BOV. The spring is too strong and will cause compressor surge. I heard bad things about it. Its just like the Boomba BOV.
     
  16. uncommon

    uncommon New Member

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    i've run 28 psi on my 3147 turbo with the OBX pipes & the sensor hasn't popped out once ... i've also run 26 psi on my 60 trim & the same pipes & again, the sensor never once popped out ...

    when i had my 50 trim, i had a set of weaponR pipes & a set of exhaust depot pipes ... i had a constant problem with the sensor popping out along with boost leaks at each of the 4 couplers



    it's IMPOSSIBLE for a pipe to collapse under boost because the pipe is being filled with air ... now it is possible for the pipe to expand, but with silicone pipes it's minimal or non-existent unlike the stock pipes
     
  17. Goats

    Goats God of skittles

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    well your one of the lucky ones that didnt have a problem with them on the hotside would be fine but i still wouldnt run one on the coldside
     
  18. turbosocks

    turbosocks srt n00b

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    ahh. i will have to do some more research. still pretty new to this specific car.

    i don't really want to run higher boost, just want it to stop bleeding off boost. will be going with some type of tuner to compensate for the higher boost at WOT.

    if i could spike at 14 and hold 14 i would be happy.

    i have the stock WGA and stock BOV with ricer plate.

    obx is a knockoff brand but the pipe is pretty much the same.

    t-bolt clamps are good, used them on my tiburon.

    the silicone pipes should be good for my app, and i doubt i would have to worry about collapse. i wont be EVER pushing more than stock boost.

    only thing i want the car to do performance wise is hold boost and not bleed it off. the reason i want to upgrade the charge pipes is because, well, rubber OEM charge pipes FTL.
     
  19. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    What are the stock pipes made out of? Just rubber? So they have more of a chance to expand unlike the silicone pipes?
     
  20. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    I never heard of anybody spiking and holding 14lbs to redline. That would be really nice. It could be accomplised with a bunch of tuning or taking a chance at a Map clamp with an aftermarket WGA. Not really sure though bro. My Stage 2 WGA is weird. I will spike at 18 and it will fall to 14 then bounce up to 16 and then go back down to 13-14 by redline. lol. I heard its common with that WGA. I am guessing its by stock surge valve bleeding boost off.