I don't know how to install it. :cry: I know where some things go, but not sure about most of it. The directions suck ass and are "universal directions" Chinese to english that does not make sense. Its a plug and play kit with no splicing Here are picts... Any help would be great! I know of a place to mount the drivers side ballast, but not sure about the pass. side.
Give Marcel a PM from Total Lighting Solutions. He may be able to assist you on the your questions. The red wire is a power lead. The WTF is this is a relay for the ballasts and your OEM wiring.. Makes things work nice toigether...
where's the connector to go into the stock harness? i don't see that anywhere. i have both my ballasts mounted on my fmic. my boyfriend has his on the crash bar. they work well there and they're out of the way.
Take a picture of everything you have and label it A, B, C, etc.. and I can tell you how to install the whole thing in the correct order, and Ron is right that WTF thing is your relay and I hope there are 2 of them. Take pics post then call me for help 254-715-8021-Wade
Well I got help on another forum and they said this: Not sure about the whole 2 realy things or the connector for the stock harness.... I guess that just floats around. I don't want to remove my front fascia to mount the ballasts, is there any way to do so on the pass. side? Stock FMIC? In the directions they say I can use double-faced tape or a cable tie. I have really strong 3m tape I used for my eyelids that might work well.
Thats right, just be sure the ground wire that has "BOLT TO CHASIS" is bolted down good and if on any painted surface you scratch that area down to the metal for good contact. Be sure to remove your ground wire on the battery during install first and let it run for about 5-10 minutes before you turn them on the first time to warm up the ballasts (do not touch those when they are on)
Looks about right... The relay is used to power both lights and as a reducer for flickering... If your headlights do flicker or go off and on, then you need a more powerful ballast. The ballasts supplied are usually a 10 amp and will work just fine on a complete OEM electrical system. If you have added any components that are powered by the battery, or have an upgraded stereo system, you will more than likely need 15 amp ballasts. Enjoy the lights and the newly found vision at night.
Sweeeeet. Thanks guys! I will let you guys know if I run into any more problems. And of course let you know how they turn out! So remove neg battery cable from battery? Then run car for 5-10 minutes with the car running or just on the "On" position? I don't have any other aftermarket stereo/ electrical device on my car. =)
Hey man, just a heads up, in your second picture it looks like you are lining up the plug to go in the wrong way. BUT this is the only way i got my kit to work, I had to plug it in like you have it lined up, and tape the two ends together. Don't know if this is the case for you but it gave me a quite the head ache.
Clarifying, remove the neg cable from the battery during install but once done re-install it, turn the car on and let it run for a few minutes before turning the new lights on. Jredd might be right some had to reverse the polarity to get theirs to work
you don't have to take off the front bumper to mount the ballasts on the crash bar. just remove the three bolts in the front and pull it back. i'm still not seeing anywhere to put these into the stock harness. if you don't connect them to the wiring harness then you won't be able to turn them on and off. my kit came with an adapter that plugged into the stock harness. what kit is this and where did you get it?
What plug are you talking about? The one going to the ballast? thanks for clarifying centraltexhemi. I also found out that blue thing in the pict plugs into one of the old headlamp sockets. On another note, I have solid motormounts all around. Car doesn't shake too bad, but I was told to get some thick rubber to mount underneath the ballast to help with vibrations cause the ballasts hate it.
Haha my answer is up there about the old socket. Didn't see those 2 posts when I made the reply! Groupbuy going on 2gn.org. $125 shipped. The guy doing the groupbuy has them in his car and they work great. I have the 9007 low beam only, 4300k. The brand is Gpusi. They have a 1 year warranty on them too.
Yeah the plug going into the ballast. In my case it need to be plugged in backwards, not latching onto the little plastic bump. Just something to keep in mind, and try if the kit doesn't work at first.
This is what I did with my ballasts on my car... You can mount your ballasts here... Clean, sorta hidden, and subtle install.
The plug that plugs into the main headlight harness is the blue socket plug. Thats what you click into the part of the harness that plugged into the back of the stock bulb assembly. Then the other four (2 for each ballasts) thin wires plug together... can't mess those up they have opposite connections and can only be plugged in one way. Then you ground the two ground wires to somewhere on the chassis... there's a ground by/below/next to the TIP sensor (driver side) and a ground on the crossing chassis part the radiator brackets sit on right by the passenger headlight (passenger side). Then the red wire (+) will go to the fuse box. Loosen the 10mm nut next to the main positive cable and attach it there. I think that's everything. Your HID kit is a bit different then mine.... I don't have the ground wires, nor the positive wire, nor the relay(s).
THANK YOU for being very descriptive! I will be installing it next week during my paid vacation! =) =)
Well I got them all hooked up. Turned on the headlights and nothing came on. Turned on the brights and they came on. Damn they are bright too! So..does that mean I can't drive with my fogs and HID's? With my regular headlights, when I have my fogs and headlights on and decide to turn my brights on the fogs turn off. any ideas? Edit: I just went outside to post a video of what was going on for proof. Turn the headlights on and the HID's light up without the brights on... Maybe they had to warm up or something. But anyways they work now without using the brights.
