Fug it! I give up with this cooling system B.S.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Part number engraved on the top of the stock rad cap is #55116897aa

There's a napa auto parts just up the road from work. Calling them now.....

PS. You guys rock my fuckin world. If I replace both of these, and it doesn't fix it. I'm gonna kill somebody. And I mean murder.....

 

Chase you nut I know the OEM part number I meant the Stant number if I see it ill know its the right one.

I got mine from Pep Boys or Autozone I dont remember just tell them your model year and tell them you want the Stant 18Ib cap with red lever.

Chase I need to get back to work if you need anything call me buddy, you know the digits!

 

My bad douche bag.....
STANT Part # 10334

 

Even after you replace them both, follow theses steps afterward:

And if you MUST murder someone, take Ron, we don't like him anyway. :whistle:

 

Look around and see if maybe you can find a Jeep anywhere.

 

Oh, aren't you a funny bastard.......

And Kyle, are you fuggin kiddin me with this shit????
"Change sensor, take the thermo out, fill system, drive, let cool, refill system, drive, refill as needed, let cool, install thermo, refill system, start motor, crack 1/4" vent plug, when you get fluid coming out, cap it. Enjoy!"

 

Nope. Best/easiest way to get ALL the air out. Don't be a pussy, you only have to do it once...:whistle:

 

:stupid: We like Ron a lot but that's still my vote too. Besides, that was his job in the service.
"Those guys want to kill us."
"send Ron out there first."

Chase, Have Cam overnight you some of his ambien and then we should talk about this... The fan *may* have been a problem. Not turning on is a symptom. Could be a lot of reasons why the fan wasn't turning on. Bad fan, relay, temp sensor that tells the PCM when to turn it on, yada, yada. ...and that could just be part of the problem.

Now for the soothing lecture:
Running a chinese fire drill and using the spray and pray can pay off, but it's like hitting the lotto. Better to have a methodical plan of attack. That way you can work your way to the problem with a high probability that you're going to solve it with the least amount of time effort and re-doing stuff.

recapping the diagnosis:
You determined that your hs fan wasn't turning on.
You replace that. Is the high speed fan turning on now?
You said it was overheating because it's spewing in the engine bay. Is the temp gauge reading hot at the same time?

Maybe some clues there.
1) If the temp gauge is reading hot then that lowers the probability that the temp sensor is bad... right?
2) If the temp gauge is reading correctly, is the hs fan turning on when it gets hot??

If you replaced the fans then we can assume there's a decent chance they are in working order (and that you installed them correctly).
If the temp gauge is reading correctly then we can assume there's a decent chance that the PCM is sending the signal.

So, IF the hs fan is NOT turning on then... what about the relay? did your replacement fans come with relays? or did you use the old relays?

IF the hs fan IS turning on then it's looking like a coolant circulation problem... You replaced the t-stat so there's a decent chance it's not that (and that you installed it correctly). That would be kind of pointing to the water pump operating at reduced capacity for whatever reason. Might want to start thinking a bit in that direction.

Back to the Zen thing:
You should look at these sorts of problems as opportunities you don't get to savor all the time. Car is broke down AT HOME... So you should have ample beer available, and take many opportunities to just stand there in the garage, sipping a beer, gazing at your car and meditating inbetween the steps of the plan for solving the problem that you formulated while drinking a couple of beers while gazing at your car.

You're starting to feel better already aren't you?

 

(We just hung up)He said the HS fan was coming on, just not when it was supposed to. If the fan comes on at all, it isn't the relay. Has to be a bad signal from the sensor, and finally threw a code. He also said he and a fab/installer guy helped him out installing it all, and bleed all air from the system. I think once he changes the sensor and cap, he's good to go.

Yup!

 

Yup.

Also, triple check the fan settings in the tune. If one of the settings is off, it will cause this?

 

Thats a BIG 10-4 right there.

 

ROFLMAO

Best post of the month!^^^

You'll get it Chase!!! Even though it's a PITA and gets your engine compartment dirty, it could be a lot worse.

While everyone else is stepping up with good, well thought out suggestions, I am posting up with with useless cheerleading BS. Love ya man :zorro:

 

Okay. I got the new coolant temp sensor and a new rad cap. I'll get them installed within the next 24 hrs. I will adjust my fan turn-on temps & change them in the tune. What do you guys recommend I set them at??

 

And thanks a Shit ton for the help fellas. Jon, thanks for the Cheerleading! I just hope you're wearing that cute little skirt......;-)

 

Just for now, set the LS fans 9* above the t-stat and set the HS fans 19* above the t-stat. set the MS fans anywhere between.

Ron's going to want you to set everything lower... but just for now you want to clearly hear then turn on and off and which ones. and it's easy enough to change them later.

 

not only ron, but chris likes them lower was well....... yeah, that sounds bad in soooo many ways!!

chase - i set my low fans to come on at 181 my highs at 189. i like to make sure things stay cool!!!!

 

Nothing wrong with that... but not now while he still might be trouble shooting dammit.

 

Chase,

You probably know this already...

Once you solve this issue, the only real important thing with your Predator fan settings is just to have them set higher than your coolant temps run at cruise. Otherwise your fan(s) will run constantly trying to get to the lower temp setting while your T-stat is maintaining whatever it's design is.

I have my fans set at 191 and 199 or something like that. My "180" degree thermostat actually runs at 185 degrees (according to the car display) while cruising.

Legshaker, what temp T-stat do you have in your car anyway? I assume your cruising temp is lower than 181.

 

edit - just went back and checked my fan setting.....

ls - 184

hs - 189

to answer your question jon, my crusing temps are around 181........ traffic 185ish

 

The thing is that the two most popular t-stats are both "180*" t-stats.
That would be the Motorad and the Jet. The Jet actually IS a 180* t-stat. The Motorad opens at 185*.

so... everybody says they have a 180* t-stat and have their fans set here but some people's fans run all the time and others don't :whistle:

Then the heavy duty guys want to run cooler and get the 176* t-stats. The PCM wants to see the engine get up to somewhere inbetween 167 and 177 or something within a certain time after key start. Odd, it's one of the few things in the shop manual where they say it will throw this code if it doesn't get up *around* here... not this exact temperature but somewhere in this *range*... I'm guessing there are a lot of things factored into that like ambient temperature and other things so for simplicity they give a range. Maybe it's some manufacturing variable or something. The 176* t-stats are going to open pretty close to the top end of that range and not all t-stats are made to military specs... so a few people get the code and others don't. When it gets cold more people get the code but some still don't.

Another thing that's not super precise is the difference between turn-on temp and turn-off temp. You set the turn-on temp. The fans turn on and then run until the temp drops some ways below the turn-on temp. Seems that for some people it's 2*, others 3* and some others maybe 4*. So some people are setting their fan temps 1 or 2 degrees above the t-stat and they're fine. Others can't figure out why their fans come on and stay on when everything is the same as the other guy's.