OK. It COULD be an engine... that little indicator light thing. WTF will THAT mean?!?! Never heard of the key dance, WTF is that?!?! As for the +300, what I mean to say is that it is raised 300 rpms above the standard 91CAIoct canned tune setting. I once had the normal shift points and rev limiter, back when it was stock... but since the predator, they've always been adjusted. The one factor that sticks in my mind is why would this happen NOW, after 3 weeks of use (including the highly-intense Eastlake Proving Ground Run)?!?! And that Run occurred New Years Day. No problems until last night!
It means that one or more of the modules is detecting some sort of condition and throwing a code which identifies the condition detected. It could be a temporary code, or one that's cleared, or maybe the predator just isn't reading it. To be sure do this: Courtesy of 1fastsedan June last year. This particular description goes into the appropriate level of detail... he includes stuff like "close door" and such. Note that you will not be starting your engine through all this. "ON" is the position before "START": Do this to find what codes are turning on your check engine light: Get in the car, close the door. Turn the key to on and wait for all the chimes and lights to stop. Perform the following steps fairly quickly (less than 3 seconds) : Turn key to from ON to ACC then back to ON then back to ACC then to ON then back to ACC then to ON If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer (bottom of the EVIC screen in the cluster). For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error will set a code of P0113. Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----". If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will be the first item displayed. After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-". This is the same procedure used on most, if not all, late model DCX vehicles. Then look here to see what the number means. http://www.srt8oc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3738 So... what would that be? And I thought there was some confusion if you set raised shift points on... Like if you set raised shift points on then it automatically bumps the rev limiter from stock to be above the raised shift point rpm. So if it does that then is the +300 on top of that? Lets say that when you set raised shift points that the predator sets the shift point to 6450 and automatically sets the rev limiter up from 6200 to 6500. If the +300 gets applied on top of that you're going to be at 6800. Might not be good right? I DON'T KNOW how it works. Just thought I'd give you something more to worry about. :iluvff: I was suggesting that you turn raised shift points off and remove any adjustment to the rev limiter. The shift point and limiter would be back to stock values or the baseline for the 91CAIoct tune you're running. If the problem does not reproduce then it's a data point indicating that it might have something to do with the raised shift points and/or what the rev limiter is set to. You could go from there. It would narrow things down a lot. Who knows? You might have been right close to the edge before. Maybe you wore a little more off the tires and it's reving up just a tiny bit faster. Maybe you got a different tank of gas. There are a thousand things that might make a tiny difference that pushed you over some threshold. If you are in fact hitting the rev limiter, your description of what it feels like would match that if you are just touching the rev limiter. I believe hitting the rev limiter will turn on the little engine picture (called the Check Engine Light).
Dave, once again, thanks. When I get home, I go through the key dance and see what happens from there (thanks for the code-meaning link as well). If there are no codes, I'll test drive again, WOT through autostick. If the indicator light comes on, I'll re-adjust the shift points back to the original 91CAIoct tune settings and re-test drive as before. I'll report back here after, say 5pm pacific time. Thanks a million!
Might be good to log while you're testing too. I don't know how or what the predator logs but apparently it does log (I don't know if it does the DCX specific pids though). If it's not too difficult it would be good to log with the problem, then with regular shift points. Of interest might be: RPM - good to see where you're actually shifting at/where the RPMs are getting too. Also may be able to see it bouncing off the rev limiter if that's what's happening. Throttle position - there are a number of pids for this. I don't believe the PCM closes the throttle for shifts but I believe it does do that when hitting the rev limiter. knock retard - unlikely. but if it goes nuts up at the top end then something may be wrong. You didn't buy a wideband so there's no way to watch A/F during WOT... which means that your adding fuel is just sort of shooting in the dark. Don't worry about it. adding a couple % isn't really going to make anything worse. (It could add a bit of exhaust soot to all the brake dust flying off your wheels). Cat bank 1 sensor 1, Cat bank 1 sensor 2, Cat bank 2 sensor 1, Cat bank 2 sensor 2 - doubtful there is any information there but you never know (and I'd like to compare to mine ). In any event, logging might tell us something, might not. It would be a good exercise for you though and give you something of interest to look up and read about while doing baby duty in the middle of the night.
I don't know about either... but when I got to Momo's he was holding the download button and waving it over the fuse box waiting for the beep. Thought it worked like a bar code scanner.
Urgent OK. I did the key dance and I got code P0300. I looked it up, and that code reflects an "DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected". I took it out for a test, and sure enough, it happened again, this time the indicator light stayed on for 15-20 seconds. I know this isn't good, but what do I do now?!?!
Did you do any logging?... As for what now, I'd say it's time for somebody who knows something. Hemi31, JMatt, Cam, etc. etc. ...
Oh FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!! This can't be good. Ron, I can't find his number. I'm calling you because I think you're cute. I think i got your office!
Please see: http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2222 Especially the final pages. I got a code P0300 (Engine Misfire Detected). I'm using predator 91OCTcai tune. 3 % enrichment of fuel across the board.
Did you get a super secret X-mas gift shaped like a performance camshaft? I would suggest contacting Mike at DiabloSport if Scott doesn't come through right away.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors. Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
