Do-it-yourself Roe Supercharger Removal

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by eddie102870, Sep 19, 2008.

  1. eddie102870

    eddie102870 New Member

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    This is a do-it-yourself thread on removing the Roe Supercharger from the intake. Only basic hand tools are needed. You can get by with a ¼ socket set, a few screwdrivers, and a 15mm wrench. I removed the supercharger to have new bearings installed in it so I’m going to take it a little further and remove the top and bottom pieces since I’ve got to do it anyway for shipping.
    Ok here we go. The first step is removing the belt. Use a 15mm wrench on the idler arm and slide the belt off of the smooth idler pulley so you can take the belt off of the supercharger. I left it hanging so I wouldn’t have to worry with feeding the belt back around all the pulleys.
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    You’ll see here the electrical connections on the passenger side that need to be removed simply unplug them and lay them out of the way.
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    Remove the air filter using a flat blade screwdriver and loosen the worm clamp (a 5/16 nut driver works just as well). If your running a water/meth injection kit with it, all you have to do is pull the line out of the front of the air filter before you start. Also don’t forget to remove the IAT Sensor wire before you remove the filter from the throttle body.
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    Next remove the electrical connection from the driver’s side of the top piece. Then take the three cables off of the throttle body. You may have to crack the throttle open about a ½ inch to pull them off. Slide them towards the front of the truck and they will pop right off. Then using an Allen wrench remove the two allen head screws that hold the throttle cable bracket from the side of the top piece. Make sure and be careful not to drop the two spacers that are between the bracket and the top piece. There are a lot of little places they can fall and be hard to retrieve.
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    The next step is to remove the vacuum line from under the throttle body. Simply pull down on it and it should come right off. I just folded it towards the fuse box and hooked it on something to keep it out of the way.
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    Now you are ready to unhook the crossover fuel line that runs between the fuel rails towards the front of the intake manifold. All you have to do is use a small flat head screwdriver or a nut driver to remove the worm clamps on each fuel rail. Make sure and have a rag handy when you remove the lines they will still be under a little pressure and gas swill spew a little when you break the seal and it will leak out when you remove them.
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    Next remove the front brace from the supercharger using a ¼ in ratchet with a 7/16 socket. Remove the two bolts and the top part of the bracket will come right off.
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    Go to the driver’s side and remove the hose from the brake booster. You can remove it from the top piece or the brake booster itself it doesn’t matter. I removed it from the brake booster because the hose was a pita to get it on the top piece with the dress up kit I have on there.
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    Now remove all the fuel injector wires. Simply pull them off and leave them hanging.
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    After you remove the fuel injector wires your ready to start removing the fuel rails. Start by removing the fuel rail stands. Using a ¼ in ratchet with a 7/16 socket, remove the three bolts on each fuel rail. Make sure and hold on to the stands themselves when you pull the bolt out. You don’t want these falling under the intake.
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    After you have removed all the stands you are ready to pop out the fuel rails and injectors. Just pry up on them. They may be a little hard to come out but you can shake them a little while applying upward pressure and they will come right out. Note: on the driver’s side I left the fuel line connected. You can remove it with a light blue fuel rail removal tool or leave it connected. There’s plenty of room to leave it connected.
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    In this picture you can see the back bolt on the fuel rail stand on the driver’s side. It is a little hard to get to but if you use a small extension you can fit it between the fuel rail and fuel line and get to the bolt.
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    This is what it looks like with the fuel rails off
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    Next go to the passenger side to the rear of the intake manifold behind the supercharger. You’re looking for a vacuum line
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    Remove it and let it hang
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    You should look like this, now remove all of the bolts for the top of the intake manifold with a ¼ in drive ratchet with a 7/16 socket. After you remove all the bolts you are ready to pry the top of the intake away from the bottom of the intake. I used a big flathead screwdriver turned sideways and stuck it into the little section of the intake where it is ground out for the fuel lines and pried up.
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    After you pry up on it take another screwdriver and place it in between the top and bottom sections about half way
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    Once you do that the front drive on the supercharger is out of the front brace about ½ in and you can press down on the front drive and it will separate the rear top section from the bottom
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    Now you are ready to lift the supercharger off. First thing take a towel or a few shop rags and place them on the radiator. This is for when you lift the supercharger off you have somewhere to sit it and it not scratch anything. Then you can get better leverage when you move it to a table or wherever you’re going to set it.Have someone lift up on the front of the supercharger. Pry up on the back to get the top part of the intake off of the dial pins and slide the whole unit forward a few inches. then with the help of a friend you should be able to lift it up and set it on the radiator so you can get a better grip on it.

    [​IMG]
    This is the bottom part of the intake. If your removing it and replacing wires or coils, you will need an allen wrench. The gaskets are re-usable.
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    This is[​IMG] the top section removed
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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2008
  2. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    Nice write-up Eddie.

    What happened to the bearings on the blower? Warn out?
     
  3. eddie102870

    eddie102870 New Member

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    have no idea, PSE said that blower shouldve lasted 20 years. just a freak bearing failure i guess. luckily it happened when i pulled in the driveway
     
  4. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

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    Taught you well I have, young Jedi.
    :D
     
  5. eddie102870

    eddie102870 New Member

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    your the master bro. just following your lead. once i figured it out it wasnt that bad. i left out the beer cooler pic
     
  6. TNCHARGER

    TNCHARGER Moderator

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    Great write up Eddie...this is great stuff as a sticky in the SRT10 data base....so shall it be...
     
  7. v10Durango

    v10Durango New Member

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    Need the pics back!!!!