DIY: Throttle Body Removal

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by Kevan, Jan 30, 2008.

  1. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

    Likes Received:
    Dec 15, 2007
    New Albany, OH
    This DIY article will show you how to remove your throttle body, aka "TB".

    The Throttle Body is located between your air inlet tube (the black tube with the right angle in this pic), and the intake manifold (the big silvery thing on the top-center of the engine):
    The Throttle Body has that 'BW' stamp over on it's right side.
    That stands for "Beautiful Women", the only kind permitted to ride in these vehicles. :)

    Removing the TB is a very easy task.
    On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being changing a light bulb; 10 being a complete engine rebuild), this is about a 2.
    Approx. time for this project is 20-30 minutes.

    First, let's take a look at the tools we'll need:
    - 3/8" Socket Driver
    - 4" extension for socket driver
    - T-30 Torx bit
    - 8mm nut driver
    - IN-LBS Torque Wrench (not really necessary for TB removal)
    Not Pictured: 10mm wrench for battery terminal.

    Before we get to the TB, let's take care of the electricity and remove the NEG cable from the battery.
    "Why?", you ask? Because if you don't, you will get a "CHECK ENGINE" light and throw three codes (P0113, P0123, and P0505) when you put everything back together and first start the truck up.
    Plus, it's safer. :)
    Use a 10mm socket to take the terminal off the battery, and set it aside so it won't accidentally contact the terminal.

    When working in the engine bay, sometimes it's nice to get a little closer
    (...with Arid Extra Dry). After a few nights of back-bending, I found that I could lay a folded towel on the bumper fascia and use it as a knee rest!
    Works great for projects like this.

    We need to remove all the plugs and sensors, so let's start with the Inlet Air Temp (IAT) sensor. This is located on the intake tube in front of the TB:
    You don't need to pull the entire sensor out; just unplug it.

    Slide the red safety tab backward (toward the drivers side):

    Then push down on the tab at the back end of the sensor socket:

    Firmly (but carefully), separate the two parts:

    The next plug to take off is for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It's located on the Passenger side of the TB, closest to the radiator:

    This plug's 'latch' is kind of hidden on the underside of the plug:
    You need to push on that center portion so the latch can release.

    Pull the plug straight out:
    ALWAYS pull connectors by their housing.
    NEVER pull connectors by the wires.
    I'm holding this one by the wires because I'm the one who's taking the pictures. :)

    The last plug to remove is for the Idle Air Control (IAC) servo. It's located just behind and below the TPS sensor:

    This one has an easy latch- just pull the latch tab (LIGHTLY) with your thumb or finger:

    And then push downward to separate the two pieces:

    Excellent! All of our sensors are unplugged!

    Now we can remove the throttle linkage.
    I always thought this was uber-complex, but it's not. They're just push-on; push-off clips.
    Remove the Speed Control (cruise control) Cable linkage first. Just push down on the plastic clip until it pops off the circular mount:
    Pretty easy.

    Do the same thing with the Main Throttle Cable:
    I tried it about 4 different ways and found that if you simply reach in with thumb and forefinger and push vertically down, the clip will release.
    Again, pretty easy.

    My truck has a JMB Performance CAI intake, so it's slightly different than the stock intake, but the same principles and locations apply.

    You need to remove the CCV tube from the TB:

    The main intake tube can then be removed. Use the 8mm nut driver to loosen the hose clamp:

    The hose clamp has probably sunk into the plastic of of the inlet tube, so just push down on the hose clamp in a few places at the same time, and it will release all the way around:

    Now you can remove the air inlet and CCV tubes (or just set them out of the way).

    We're clear to remove the TB now!

    Let's break out the socket wrench, the extension, and the T-30 Torx bit!
    I remove the lower bolts (2) first:
    Why? Because I don't have to worry about dropping the TB while concentrating on not losing one of the TB mount bolts. :)

    On the lower Driver's side TB mount bolt, there's an L-bracket that holds the IAT wire off the engine block:
    Don't forget about it when it comes time to re-install the TB!

    The upper TB mounting bolts (2) can now come out:

    TIP: Once the bolts are loosened with the socket wrench, use just the extension with the T-30 bit to remove the screw the rest of the way:

    With the 4 mounting bolts off, you're done...right?
    Underneath the TB is the purge solenoid tube that needs to be disconnected:
    It just slips off (and on) without any clamp.

    *NOW* you can remove your TB. :D

    Whew....someone needs a bath!


    ©2007 Kevan J. Geier
    All Rights Reserved
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2008