SHIFT LEVER & T-HANDLE REMOVAL & INSTALLATION FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 (RC only). This DIY article will cover removal & installation of the stock HURST shift lever (and HURST T-handle) onto the OEM shifter of the Ram SRT-10. Aftermarket shifters may vary slightly from the OEM shifter, so check with them regarding fitment PRIOR to reading any further. Tools required: - 3/8" socket driver - 15mm socket (3/8" drive) - 14mm combination wrench (for OEM lock nut) - 9/16" combination wrench (for the lock nut I had with my original T-handle) - 3/4" combination wrench (for new lock nut). Note the packing tape used to protect the nut during installation. - 3/16" Allen wrench - Blue threadlocker Supplies: (1) Shift Lever (the OEM one pictured is about $70 shipped + powder coating) (1) T-Handle (available at many speed shops; approx. $25 + powder coating) I had JMB Performance powdercoat both the lever and the handle for me. Stock pieces will be silver/aluminum colored. The stock shift lever comes with a ball handle. While that works for some, my hands are pretty large and I prefer the 'feel' of the T-handle. The T-handle package from HURST comes with a bunch of thread adapters- both for the handle itself, and for locking it to the shift lever. For this particular shift lever, the "green" (very dark green; almost black) handle insert fits the SRT-10 handle the best. Use the green threadlocker (provided) on the OUTSIDE threads of the insert, and using a spare bolt (or the shift lever), thread the insert in as deep as possible into the handle: Wipe away any excess threadlocker, and let the handle sit for a couple of hours for so the threadlocker can dry. While waiting for the threadlocker to dry, test the locking nuts supplied by HURST. Thread them onto to the shifter to find the proper thread gauge for your shifter. The motto here is much like that for women's clothing: the tighter, the better. :grin: REMOVAL Into the cab of the truck.... We'll remove the old shift lever by first removing the original ball (or t-handle in my case). There is a nut underneath the ball. Using the proper size open-end wrench (9/16" in this case), release the locking nut: The ball should then unscrew by hand. Take the locking nut off as well. Now we need to remove the shift boot. There are (6) Allen head bolts that mount the boot to the floor console. Those all need to come out: Keep them in a safe place. They tend to scamper across garage floors if you don't keep a close eye on them. Lift the boot off the original shifter: Note that the trim ring is also loose but being removed at the same time. It's nicely finished aluminum so be careful in handling it. At the base of the shifter, you'll see a neoprene cover fitted over the (2) mouting bolts for the shift lever. This sleeve can be lifted up and off the shift lever: Now we have access to our (2) mounting bolts! Using the 15mm socket, remove the nuts that mount the shift lever to the shifter. Top one first: ...then the bottom one: INTERESTING: Check out the number at the base of the shift lever: "0061". My OEM replacement has no number there. The entire shifter + connector will release from the shifter. That's just what we want. You'll need to CAREFULLY (and WITHOUT tools!) wiggle the shift lever out of the connector. The outside piece of the connector is a very stiff rubber, so put a little elbow grease into it and work it out of the connector. Once the plastic is out, the shifter will come out fairly easily. I may be psychotic, but I keep thinking the cup holders in the truck will actually hold a can of Pepsi. Though I keep trying, they keep letting me down....and after every shift, they simply dump Pepsi everywhere (525 ft.lbs. of torque doesn't help either...heh heh). Now is a great time to clean the console and boot. The console is ABS plastic, so Fantastic or 409 will work great on it (spray it into a cloth; not directly onto the plastic). Don't forget to clean the Allen head bolts too! The boot is real leather, so use a good leather cleaner/conditioner on it. INSTALLATION Okay...time to put this thing together.... We first need to assemble the shift handle connector. This is pretty much a 'one-way' assembly. Note how the circular protrusions fit the holes of the shift handle? Yep...that side goes in first, face toward the lever. If it's in properly, the vertical stripes on the rubber pad will be staring back at you: (sorry about the crappy pic. My camera just got back from a cruise on the failboat) The matching of these pieces will also help make sure your shifter is mounted properly. Nothing worse than having 2nd gear down by your butt cheek. :grin: Just remember that: vertical lines match up with vertical lines everywhere on the shifter/lever assembly. It should be a snug fit putting the shift handle and connector back onto the shifter. You did remember to line up the vertical lines with the vertical lines on the shifter, right? I knew you did. Apply some thread locker to the threads on the connector bolts: Make sure you get AT LEAST 3 full thread revolutions covered. Wipe away any drips that you might have let fall because your camera won't take a decent picture due to it's flash freaking out. The connector bolts can now be re-attached. First the lower: ....then the upper: I go 'back and forth' between upper and lower a little at a time to make sure that the rubber piece seats properly. I could not find torque specs on these. If anyone has them, please post 'em up. Thanks. I tightened the connector bolts as tight as possible without risking stripping nut or bolt. The boot can now be put back on. It has alignment pins so you can't put it on incorrectly. The trim ring can go on right afterwards, and it too has alignment pins to help you out: Re-install the (6) Allen bolts for the trim ring/boot. There are no torque specs for the trim ring bolts. Just do them nice and tight without stripping the clips. Here are some final pics: DONE. NOTES: - I'm not really happy with the uber-large lock nut for the T-handle. I'll be replacing that ASAFP. - Yes- I know the floor mats are dirty. It's a truck; not a Rolls. :grin: THANKS: - JMB Performance for the fantastic powder coating job. - Keith (bee0912) for taking all the pics. ©2008 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
