REAR WHEEL WELL LINER INSTALLATION FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 This DIY article will cover removal of the old wheel well liners & installation of the new (full coverage) wheel well liners for the Ram SRT-10. The wheel well liner kit is available through any authorized Mopar parts dealer. P/N#82207367 It comes with: (1) L liner (1) R liner (14) new mounting clips (pitch your old ones) (8) self-tapping screws (pitch your old ones) (6) smooth-tip machine screws (1) set of installation instructions PRICE: Depending on shipping (it's a large item), it should be less than $100. TIME: About 1 hour. DIFFICULTY: 1 Tools required: - 8mm nut driver (or socket) - INCH-pound torque wrench - Something to shim with (I used a 12" piece of 2x4) Optional tools: - Jack & jack stands - Drill driver - Lug wrench (if you remove wheels) - FT-pound torque wrench (if you remove wheels) It's always a good idea to RTFM (Read The Frickin' Manual) first. We did: It wasn't very detailed, but this wasn't a very complicated project. Though it's not necessary to remove the rear wheels to install the liners, I did for ease of access and for photos. Here the jack is under the rear end: ...and the wheels are then removed. Here is what the old liners looked like: Note that they cover only a little bit of the back side wheel well (the little triangle of plastic on the far right). Using the 8mm nut driver, remove the top body mount screw: Next, remove the (2) screws that mount the old liner to the fender: Now the old liner can be removed. Repeat the process for the other side. The new liners are marked on them "L" and "R". This is relative to the driver's sitting/facing position. It takes a little wiggling to get the liner in place (esp. if you left the wheel mounted), but it will line up properly. Hand-start the new body mounting screws, and then tighten with the 8mm nut driver: DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM ALL THE WAY!!! Only do them snug, then back them off 1 full turn. You'll see why later on. Attach the liner using the new hardware. The instructions show you where each new mounting screw goes. Here's where the (3) per side smooth-tip machine screws go: REMEMBER: Only do them snug, then back them off 1 full turn. We'll tighten them in a minute....just hang on.... Here's the new wheel well liner installed, but with 1-turn loose mounting screws: Looks great, no? If you took your wheel off, now is the time to put it back on and torque the lug nuts. Insert your shim/2x4 between the back of the wheel/tire and the liner. It will be a very tight fit. As the shim applies pressure, it pushes the liner into a position where the tires won't be able to rub it. Now you can go and tighten up all the mounting screws: When you're finished with hand-tightening, use the INCH-pound torque wrench and tighten them all to 44 in-lbs.: Remove the shim/2x4. Repeat for the other side. The new wheel well liners will look so good, Keith can give you the 2 Thumbs Up Of Approval! :grin: ©2008 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
Very cool... Might have to get me some of these and put them in when I redo my caliper paint. Great job! :beerchug: Tell Keith thanks for the help, from all of us, as well. :clap:
UPDATE!!! After several months of having the wheel well liners in, I've found that there is a small amount of rubbing (and that I make some pretty fierce left turns. LOL). These are obviously designed for the regular Ram truck tires, and this is probably why they weren't used from the factory: So, tonight I set about trimming the wheel well liners so that there won't be any more rubbing. The truck was jacked up and the axle put on jackstands (front tires got chocked too). The rear wheels were removed. The liners were cleaned and then masking tape applied to the sections where the rubbing was happening: The wheels were put back on and a Sharpie was used to mark the outside edge of the tire: We did this on both the front and rear of the liners: And, of course, on both liners. :grin: The liners were trimmed with a Dremel and their cool new cutting disc: Try to keep it as close to a 90º angle as possible when cutting: Unfortunately, my new Dremel failed and we heard the 'poooof' of the motor: Less than 10 days old, and it's toast. Thankfully, Keith had one and loaned it to me for the night. Here's what it looks like after the initial cutting: You can see the 2 pieces that were removed. Another quick test fit/check: The Dremel was then used to get the cut a little closer to the marked edge. Before final sanding: Trimmed, sanded and re-installed: Wheels put back in place and lug nuts torqued to spec (101 ft.lbs.): Now there should be no rubbing: There's now a nice area of clearance, without being 'wide open'. All content ©2008 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
Thanks for the update Kevin...I definitely need to do that to mine...Sounds like the wheel wells are being ripped out when I make a sharp right turn up hill..
