LINE LOCK BRAKE LINES This is probably the most difficult part of the installation: the new brake lines. Technically, we're taking out one brake line (from MasterCylinder to ABS control) and replacing it with two (from MC to line lock; from line lock to ABS control). At the begining of this DIY tutorial, I talked about flaring my own lines. This was not a good idea. LOL I bought a cheap kit and quickly learned why the guys at Midas are called 'brake professionals'. It's very difficult to flare lines correctly. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU HAVE A PROFESSIONAL FLARE YOUR NEW BRAKE LINES!!! The guys at my local Midas shop were very cool, but thought I was a bit odd when it came to the connection ends. They have the tools and skills to do it right the first time. Take some cash up to your local shop and ask the manager very nicely if they could flare the lines for you. Trust me- it's worth the cash. I took an old coat hanger and some wire cutters and fab'ed up some basic shapes for the new lines. The one from the MC to the LL was the shortest, but it proved to be the most difficult. SUGGESTION: Pre-made brake lines come in regular sizes- 10", 12", etc. Cut your piece of coat hanger in 10" or 12" sections before you begin shaping it. This way, when you get the actual brake line, little or no trimming will be necessary. I was trying to keep the line from the MC to the LL as short and sweet as possible. That meant working along the horizontal axis. After several attempts, it wasn't going to happen. You will probably go through several "practice bends" before you end up with one that's not kinked, works well, and looks good. Here's my practice pile: I also had a difficult time finding a good tubing bender. The one pictured at the begining of this article is....okay. I went through 4 different hand-held benders before I found one that worked to my liking. In the end, I finally had two lines that were the right size/length, the right shape, no kinks, and the correct connectors. Note how the line from the MC to the LL now goes down out of the MC vertically, makes a loop, then comes back up to the LL inlet. It took me a while to get that one. Yours may look different depending on your mount setup. The second line from the LL to the ABS was MUCH easier, but still a little tricky. -CONNECTIONS The connections on the truck are: ISO Metric Flare (aka Bubble Flare). Your new brake lines MUST have ISO Metric Flares on the MC end and the ABS end. On your new lines you will have to have new ISO Metric Flares ***and*** metric connectors put on in the correct locations. 3/16" Metric ISO line connectors can be found at any major auto parts store for about $1 each. If you can, get the shorter ones (factory uses short). Have the brake pros take off the double-flare on the end, slip on the Metric fitting, then have the brake pros give it an ISO Metric flare. Do that for the respective connection end on both lines. The input to the LL requires an adapter (thanks for not including them, Hurst). If you purchase their "Universal Installation Kit", the two adapters come in there. I didn't pay $30 for two adapters. It took me a while to find them but I eventually did at a professional brake supply house here. The adapter is called a 1/8"-to-double flare adapter (that's what I was told anyway). To be honest, outside of the Hurst extras kit, I have no clue where to pick up those adapters. If someone has a source, please post it. Here's a shot of the adapters being test fit: So, the Pipe-to-Flare adapters go to the LL and allow a double-flared end to be used on them. REMEMBER: the length of the installed adapters will 'shorten' your new lines by about a 1/2". Adjust your coat hanger pieces and new lines accordingly. Brake lines will flex a little, so minor adjustments can be made. When I say 'flex a little', I do mean very little. Be careful not to kink the lines when flexing them into position. The alternate two ports on the LL solenoid MUST be plugged up. I learned that it is MUCH easier to do this before the LL is mounted on it's bracket. USE TEFLON TAPE ON *ALL* THE CONNECTION THREADS! Teflon tape can be found at any hardware store. I think a roll of it is about $1. Wrap it so that the tape will 'tighten' as you tighten the connection. It looks like it's wrapped backward in the pic, but it really is going in the correct direction: ALL CONNECTION THREADS GET TEFLON TAPE!!! In this pic, you can see the LL adapters installed, and a couple of temporary plugs in the other holes (to keep contaminants out). Also note the plug in the MC line keeping brake fluid from dripping out: -ORIGINAL BRAKE LINE REMOVAL First we should take off the plastic guide clips. I used a very wide bladed screw driver to force the flange back on the clips and let the line slip past. It took a little wiggling but eventually both were removed and still whole. Now is a very good time to grab 2 spare line plugs (metric) and keep them close by. You're about to take a pressurized line apart, and fluid *will* come out. Brake fluid will eat through your paint faster than Paris Hilton can get a DUI. Be VERY careful with where it touches, and keep plenty of shop rags or paper towels handy. I rested a shop towel on the frame rail to (hopefully) catch the little bit of spillage that I knew would eventually happen. I like to use latex gloves when working with fluids. Now would be a good time to put them on. I used a 12mm open-end wrench to remove the original brake line. First at the MC: ...then at the ABS controller: The connection at the ABS controller is a bietch to get to, but it can be done. Go slow and don't get frustrated. Once the connections were loose enough to turn by hand, I did.....then plugged them as quickly as possible with my spare plugs...by hand. That should control most of the dripping. Wipe up any excess as quickly as you can. I hang on to my original parts and put them in a safe place just in case I need them again. Here's what I removed: Our new lines should be close to the correct shape, so we can now insert them into the LL adapters. You did remember to put teflon tape on their threads, right? I knew you did. I did the MC to LL line first. The LL end was attached first, then I positioned the Metric fitting as close to the plug on the MC as possible. I quickly remove the plug, and quickly put the Metric fitting (with teflon tape on the threads) into place. A little fluid came out, but not a lot. I repeated the process with the LL to ABS line. First connecting the new line to the LL adapter, then positioning it as close as possible to the plug in the ABS controller. I quickly pull the plug and insert the Metric fitting (with teflon tape on the threads) into the ABS controller. Again, only a little fluid came out. Tighten all connections. I couldn't find it in the service manual, but I'll wager a guess that it's about 200 in-lbs. (If anyone has the specs, please post here. Thanks.) The plugs in the unused outlet ports will tighten A LOT. The head of the plug might actually touch the face of the solenoid. Here are a couple of shots of the new brake lines installed: Now we replace our 'drip rag' with a clean one and let the vehicle sit for a while. - If the rag comes back clean, we're ready to move onto the next step. - If the rag gets fluid on it....tighten your connections. Here are a couple of final installation pics: Line Lock Engine Bay with line lock wired Note how you can BARELY see the red power line. It took me about 8 tries to get them visible in the picture. Few will ever see them. Switch with cover closed: Switch with cover open: Switch with Line Lock on: We're done! WAIT....no we're not! We added a bunch of air to the brake lines when we put the new lines in! We need to bleed the brakes: http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2697 Damn...just when we thought it was time to crack a cold one....LOL Enjoy! ©2007 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
