FRONT SHOCK REMOVAL & INSTALLATION FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 This DIY article will cover removal and installation of the front shocks for the Ram SRT-10. TIME: About 20 min per shock. DIFFICULTY: 1 Tools required: - Jack (not pictured) - Jack stand (not pictured) - Large 1/2" drive FOOT-pound torque wrench (for lug nut removal) - 22mm deep socket (for lug nut removal) - Small 1/2" drive FOOT-pound torque wrench - 3/8" socket driver - 1/2" deep socket - 11/32" deep socket - 11/32" standard socket - Socket drive adapters (if needed) - 18mm combination wrench - Threadlocker ('blue') - OEM jack - Rag It's not 100% necessary to remove the front wheel to replace the shock, but it does make things a heck of a lot easier. So, loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the lug nuts, jack up the truck, and set the jack stand securely in place. Now you can remove the lug nuts and set the wheel aside: Finding the shock is pretty easy: it's the yellow & blue vertical cylinder inside the coil spring: What's nice about this design is that replacement is very easy: the shock slides in/out the bottom of the A-arm. More on that later.... REMOVAL: Remove the nut on the top of the shock. Use the 18mm combo wrench for the nut, and the 11/32" socket for the top of the shock main shaft: The best method is to hold the socket steady and loosen the nut. Once the nut is fairly loose, you can set the wrench and socket aside and just unthread the nut by hand: Lift off the metal top cap (retainer): And remove the top rubber washer (insulator): Our shock is now loose up top. So, let's get underneath it and finish removing it.... Using the 1/2" deep socket, remove the nut all the way off one side of the lower shock mount: It should look something like this: Now let's take the 2nd nut off: The shock is still under a little pressure, so it will 'push' toward the ground as you loosen that 2nd nut: Keep your other hand on the bottom of the shock to prevent it from falling out and smacking you in the sternum: Slowly slide the shock down through the access hole in the lower A-arm: Our shock is now out: INSTALLATION: Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Locate the access hole in the lower A-arm, and slide the top of the shock through it: Make sure the shock goes through the center of the coil spring: ...and finally up through the hole in the shock mount of the frame: I like to use the OEM scissor jack to get the lower section of the shock into place. It's 'head' is about the same width as the shock, so I can still access the nuts while the jack is holding the shock up. I use a shop rag to prevent damage to the shock: You can use your hand to turn the screw on the jack, and slowly raise the shock so that the two mounting studs line up with the holes in the lower shock mount: Raise the jack until you are able to thread on the mounting nuts: Once both mounting nuts are on, you can lower the jack: ...and put it back under the seat. For the lower mounts, I tighten each nut a little bit, then switch: I keep going back and forth (about 2 turns each), until both nuts are snug up against the bottom of the A-arm: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN!!! Just get them snug. Now the nuts can be torqued to 25 ft.lbs. each: We're done underneath, so let's move up to the top..... Slide the rubber insulator over the shaft, and then the metal cap over the insulator. For the top nut, we need to apply "blue" threadlocker (semi-permanent) to the threads on the top of the shock shaft: That's the latest stuff from Permatex. It's like a gel/foam that works great, and with a reverse twist of the base, the unused portion gets sucked back into the container! Once the threadlocker has been applied evenly to the threads, you can re-attach the nut. Torquing the top nut is kinda tricky. What you want to do is hold the nut with your combination wrench, and then set your torque wrench to 40 ft.lbs. and UNSCREW the top of the shock shaft: By unscrewing the shaft, it's actually tightening the nut. That's it! Our new shock is in place and we're ready to roll! Re-attach the wheel and torque the lug nuts to your preference between 95 ft.lbs and 110 ft.lbs.: (I do 101 ft.lbs....easy to remember). Enjoy your new shocks! All content is ©2008 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
I know by comparison, there are not alot of trucks on this website, but it deserves to be said, that there is no better person at DIY threads than Kevan. I have been following his workmanship for almost two years. I have always learned something everytime this gentleman has performed an exercise such as this. So once again, I would like to say, thank you Kevan for all your effort. It really shows!... everytime. You are a class act.
You're welcome, Joe! Thanks for the kind words. I've got a few DIY articles in the bullpen now; just waiting on a few parts and some glue to dry before final pics can be taken and the articles written. I think folks will like the new ones as well.
