This thread will cover replacing the front brake pads for the 2005-2006 Dodge Ram SRT-10 trucks. The 2004 models have different front brakes and thus different pads....and thus a different thread. First, a look at the tools we'll need: - Jack - Brass wire brush - Aluminum wire brush - (2) quick clamps (or C-clamps) - "BLUE" threadlocker - 1/2" drive socket wrench - 12mm Allen socket - Torque Wrench (FOOT-lbs.) - Drill Driver - 22mm socket (for lug nuts/drill driver) - 1/2" drive breaker bar OPTIONAL: - Jack stands (helpful and added safety) - A buddy NOTE: Although I only show one side in this DIY article, BOTH sets should be changed when installing new pads. TIME FRAME: About 1 hour per wheel, which includes thorough cleaning of the caliper. PAD REMOVAL Let's get into it! First, make sure your parking brake is set. We don't want the truck rolling around on us as we're trying to put the pads in. That makes installation kinda tricky. Use the 22mm socket and the breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts. Just loosen them; don't take them all the way off. Jack the truck up at the appropriate spot on the frame (see Owners Manual for the exact location). I like to use a rag or old towel to keep the jack from scratching the coating on the frame. Now we can remove the lug nuts. I like using the drill-driver with the 22mm socket on it. Makes me feel all NASCAR-y. Note the X-metal t-shirt. This ensures a high performance procedure. Set the wheel/tire aside. For the DIY article, we turned the wheels slightly for a better camera angle. This isn't necessary, but does help with access a little. There's ONE BOLT on the caliper to gain access to the pads. Use your 12mm Allen socket with the 1/2" drive socket wrench and loosen it: The breaker bar can be used too. That bolt is really on there tight. Once the bolt is loose and de-threaded on the near side, the springs that hold the calipers in place will try to "spring" out, and take the bolt and it's protective sleeve with it. I keep pressure on the bolt sleeve with my palm while carefully pulling the bolt at the other end: Now that the bolt is clear of the caliper, you can remove the sleeve/spring assembly: The springs pretty much push it out for you. Our bolt, sleeve, and springs are out: This now gives us complete access to the front pads. It'd be nice if we could just slide them out from here, but....there's some pressure on the pads still, so we need to help them a little. I like to use Quick-clamps, but you can use regular C-clamps. TIPS: If you do use regular C-clamps, make sure you put something protective (duct tape, masking tape, etc.) over the clamping faces so they don't scratch the calipers. Repainting sucks. I do one pad at a time, and usually start with the inside pad. One Quick-clamp is placed at the upper section of the pad; the second at the lower section of the pad: Notice that the Quick-clamp faces on the pads are pushing on the METAL portion of the pad; not the pad material. There's a little lip of metal there that the clamp should push on. NOTE: The yellow rubber 'feet' that normally come with the Quick-clamps have been removed. They're nice protection, but they also slip during this procedure. The ABS plastic of the clamps is protective enough here. Now that the clamps are on, we can tighten them. - If you're doing this solo, squeeze one clamp once, then go to the other and squeeze once. Repeat as necessary. It should only take 2-3 full squeezes to free the pad. - If you're using C-clamps, do one full turn on one clamp, then do one full turn on the other. Repeat as necessary until the pad is loose enough to remove. As we tighten them, the pistons of the calipers are forced back enough to allow the pads to come free. You can remove the clamps and the pistons will pretty much stay put. Now you can remove the inside pad: It lifts straight out and away from the caliper. We need to repeat the process on the other side. Do the clamps: Then remove the outside pad: Now we have room for our NEW pads! While you have everything out, have a look around inside the caliper. Check for dirt or things that might cause piston seal leaks. Also check the condition of the pistons. If you see ANY damage, stop reading this and have your caliper checked out by a professional (or the dealer). This is also a good time to clean up the caliper. I use simple cleaners (like Windex or 409) sprayed into a paper towel or shop rag. I do the same thing for the inside of the calipers. NEVER spray directly onto the pistons; always into a towel or rag first. I use the wire brushes on the sleeve and springs to get all the corrosion and gunk off of them. Some sprays of Simple Green will help with that too. PAD INSTALLATION Installing the new pads is very simple, but we should do a little prep work first. This is mostly personal preference, but I like to add some PTFE (teflon) to the pad notches and piston face prior to installation. This not only helps them slide back and forth on their posts easier, but also protects them from the elements. Here's a pic of one of the rear pads getting a couple of shots of PTFE spray in it's notches: I also do the 'shim' face and let it sit for a couple of minutes, then wipe away the excess with a paper towel or shop rag. Now that our pads are ready, we can just slide them into place: I'm sorry that I have to say this, but: MAKE SURE THE PAD MATERIAL IS FACING *TOWARD* THE ROTOR. Here's a reference photo if you're wondering if your pads are 100% seated. Yours should look like this: Notice that there's almost zero pad material sticking above the rotor's edge. That means that it's fully seated. Once both pads are put in, we can put the sleeve/spring assembly back in: The tolerance on the sleeve is very tight, so be careful not to scratch the paint as you put it in place. Open up the threadlocker bottle and add it to the threads of the main bolt: You want to make sure that the blue stuff COMPLETELY encircles at least 3 threads. Use the "palm on the sleeve" method described earlier to hold the sleeve in postion while you HAND-THREAD the main pad bolt back into place. Once it begins to thread properly, you can release the pressure on the sleeve. Use the 12mm Allen socket on the 1/2" drive socket wrench to tighten the main bolt: Then break out the torque wrench and set it for 85 FOOT-lbs. Tighten up the main pad bolt. Your new pads are installed! You can now put your wheel back on: Torque the lug nuts to 90-110 FOOT-lbs. (I do 101 ft.lbs. It's easy to remember. LOL) WAIT! Before you go out driving and causing havoc on the streets, CHECK YOUR BRAKES!!!!! I recommend bleeding them PRIOR to leaving the garage. Here's a link to the DIY article on Bleeding Your Brakes: http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2697 STOP!!! You're not quite done yet. We need to bed the brake pads so that they work properly and don't squeal like a 4 yr. old in the cereal aisle. Here's a FANTASTIC guide to bedding in brake pads: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm (HUGE props to David Zeckhausen for the guide and knowledge) The basics: - Find a SAFE open place to perform the bed in procedure. School zones are NOT recommended. - Warm up the pads and rotors by doing a couple of smooth but firm braking moves from 60 mph-ish. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! - 60 mph to 10 mph, as quickly as you can WITHOUT the ABS kicking in. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP!!!! - Do that 8 times in a row. (Bonus points if you do (2) reps of 80 mph to 10 mph.) - Let your brakes cool for at least 10 minutes, meaning no braking at all. - If you smell something REALLY NASTY, that means your new brake pads are working properly. Check Zeckhausen's site for more information on the bed-in procedure. Only takes a few minutes, but if anyone sees you doing it they'll think you're insane. DONE. (Thanks to Keith (bee0912) for the hand model shots. ) ©2007 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved