DIY: Clutch Bleeding

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by Kevan, Jun 21, 2009.

  1. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

    Likes Received:
    Dec 15, 2007
    New Albany, OH
    (Also applies to Gen. 3 and Gen. 4 Viper coupe and convertible).

    This DIY article will cover how to properly and correctly bleed the hydraulic clutch line in your Viper-powered vehicle, more specifically the Ram SRT-10.

    This is a VERY EASY procedure, and can save you a ton of cash.
    I'm not sure what the average dealer cost is to bleed a clutch line, but you can do it yourself for less than $20.

    Here's a quick overview of the slave cylinder and where the bleed screw is at:
    (image courtesy of ALLDATA)

    Now that we have a general idea of where we're looking and what to look for, let's get our stuff together.
    Difficulty Level: 2

    Tools required:

    - 11mm combination wrench
    - shop paper towel
    - shop rag
    - catch cup

    Materials required:
    - 1 pt. of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.
    There are dozens of awesome brake fluid brands out there. Even the most exotic/hardcore stuff can be had for under $20.
    Just make sure it's DOT3 or DOT4!
    If you're switching from one to the other, you need to flush your entire line (drain and refill).

    Under the hood we go....
    Look for a yellow cap. One will be for your brake master cylinder, the other will be for your clutch master cylinder.
    We want the clutch one. On the trucks, it's right next to the brake MC.

    Open the cap and have a look inside:
    There you see the rubber diaphragm and a little fluid inside of it.

    We need to remove the diaphragm.
    It lifts straight out of the MC reservoir.
    Empty any fluid inside of it, and check that it's in good shape:
    Clean it too, since you have it out.

    Make sure that the fluid is at the proper level.
    If you're reading this on any other site than, that means someone stole it. They officially suck and you should ban them for committing a felony.
    On the Viper MC, there's a little embossed "line" that runs around the outside of the MC. That's your FULL mark.
    Don't go past the FULL mark because the diaphragm will displace enough fluid to bring it to the brim.

    Put the cap back on the MC.

    I stuff a shop paper towel between the MC and the brake lines in case of any spillage:
    Remember that brake fluid is VERY harmful to paint and clear coats.
    The paper towel is just insurance.

    Now we can go under the vehicle.

    Locate the bleed screw on the transmission.
    It will be just above the input for the hydraulic line:
    It's that little brass hex head sticking out.

    Here's where the fun starts. LOL
    Just like brake bleeding, you'll need a 2nd person to help ya out here.
    1. They will push the clutch to the floor and hold it there.
    2. You loosen the bleed screw and let any air/fluid out, then tighten it back up quickly.
    3. They release the pedal completely.
    4. Repeat #1 through #3 until the clutch stiffens up.
    Remember to check the fluid level in the reservoir after every couple of "rounds" and keep it at the FULL line.

    As the air is bled out of the line, fluid should leak out of the center of the bleed screw.
    That's what the catch cup is for:

    Check the fluid level back at the MC and make sure it's at the FULL level.
    Put the rubber diaphragm back in the MC reservoir, and screw the yellow cap on tight.

    The shop rag is to wipe up any brake fluid that you missed.

    Double-check for any spills or leaks anywhere in the line or at the connections.

    BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE, test the clutch a few times. Make sure all the "mush" is gone and you have consistent pressure throughout the travel of the pedal.

    That's it.

    ©2009 Kevan J. Geier
    All Rights Reserved
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2009
  2. Tamddbce

    Tamddbce New Member

    Likes Received:
    May 19, 2015
    Thank you*informed me.
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015