UPDATED: Cam, need some Techco love..... Have had the CMW426 and the Techco 10 p.s.i. blower in the car and have gotten around 400+ miles on it in the last 5-6 weeks. The car is not a daily driver so it has taken some time. I am getting some noise and it seems to be coming from the "screw area"...let me explain..... Everyone knows the Techco is quite the rock-crusher when it comes to sound. It did have the crushing noise when first installed, and BMC made the comment that as the blower got more time on it that it seemed to them the sound got less "crushing". I agree with that but by the time I got the car most of the sound had already lessened. Only a small, small amount after I got the car. I drove the car to work on Friday (about 45 miles each way) car did fine in the morning, it was wet and raining so there was NO BOOST during the morning drive. On the way home, I was able to do 2-3 blasts where I got a good 7-8 p.s.i. and ran it out a little bit. Leaving a traffic light I got on it a little bit and backed off suddenly. I have an issue (completely different from this one) where I get the P0300 code and the car goes into limp mode (i think it is limp mode as the car is still in drive and you are still rolling/coasting but when you give it gas the RPM's go up but the car does not accelerate. If you just put the car in neutral and come to a stop, you can put the car back in gear and its fine)..... Anyway, thats what I did. When I came to the complete stop I could hear better at that point, and I thought the sound from the Techco seemed a little louder as far as the crushing/grinding sound, but not bad enough that I thought something was wrong. I drove the car regularly down the interstate about 60-75 miles an hour for the next 13-15 miles. When I got off the exit and slowed down to merge, I REALLY heard the crushing/grinding sound. The car was running fine not hesitating or anything, but I got off the road and pulled over in the parking lot. I popped the hood and let the car idle, it didnt get any better. I had about 5 more miles to go and a knife in the car in case I needed to cut the blower drive belt, so i said fuck it and babied the car on the way home. The noise SEEMED to get better/quieter on the way home and at one point I added enough pedal to get part throttle boost and I heard the familiar blower whine and nothing terrible, but I got off of it quick and continued home. I started the car this morning and ran it at idle. The noise seems to be close to what I had before Friday. I only ran it for a few minutes at idle and that was it. Short of removing the blower and tearing it down to inspect it, I dont know where to go from here. Even if I did remove it and inspect it, there isnt anyone or anywhere to go to find out any tolerance specs or get any parts anyway. I know these things hold oil, is it possible the oil could be low? Is there anyway to check the oil? I looked around as best I could but I don't see any place obvious to check it. I dont want to roach a blower because money is money but i am most concerned that I could roach the motor if something came apart inside. I would be pissed, but if I had to turn the Techco into a boat anchor then I could hack that. If the CMW motor got roached, I would be beside myself..... Cam, got any ideas where I can start? lease: Thanks.......
To check the oil level, there is a glass window on the back side of the blower (Drivers side). You will need a flash light to see clearly. As for the noise, Brad, check the water reservoir and make sure there is a sufficient amount of water (filled). I get this every now and then as well. As for the limp mode. Give me some more info please. When you rev'd the engine, did the RPM's hit the limiter? Was it like you were in nuetral or did the motor seem to bog down? I ask because if it was like having the car in neutral, then you sent the tranny into limp mode. You WILL want to have Johan take the Torque Management (Shift points and Rev Limit) back down to stock. This is, IMO, what has been the root cause of Tranny breakage. The P0300 code is a random misfire. What is your RPM set at? You might want to raise the idle up by 50 or 100 rpm? I used to get this code as well.
This is what I love about this site and our Connection community, having an issue with your ride and being able to reach out and ask for help. Then just waiting for the experts to offer up advice and help for us to resolve our issues. I think it is awesome to just sit back and soak in the information the talented wrenches will offer up. I hope it all works out for you quickly Brad.
Ron, checked the coolant in the reservoir and it was all the way at the top...matter of fact as i was unscrewing the cap coolant was pushing out, so I think I can count that out.... Then I went to check the oil level....Your right, it'ss WAY the hell back there. Here is a NOT very good picture but I think you will arrive at the same conclusion I did......Looks like there is NO oil in the window.....*@#^&#%#$@ So.....I guess the fill is the pipe plug right above the window? Any idea what kind of motor oil?
haha you picture is by far better than the one I just added.. haha Mine looks the same, so I dunno how to gauge the level either??? Maybe Cam will jump in and enlighten us? Also, what kind of oil should we use? I guess I could check the manual I have sitting on my work bench? haha
Damn I feel bad for you Techo guys...Good luck Brad..FYI I would try calling Cam as he doesnt come on as often as he used to.Hes a busy beaver. Ya Know you could always sell that thing and Put a direct port on there.Maybe run some 10.50s
I think that the oil level should be half way up the window glass, just even with the center hole... I have an install manual....never got anything else...I dont remember oil level or kind of oil being in there...will pull it out..... I want to run 10's on the Techco then add the juice and run low 10's.....right past YO ASS!! haha
Holy crap Brad. BTW, what a great group of guys here. The only reason I'm on line right now is Hemi911 called me and told me you had an issue, otherwise it would have been late tomorrow before I got back on line. The oil level is very disturbing. That is a sealed area. There is a double side high pressure seal (two, one for the drive and one for the driven gear set) that goes between the the gear housing and the screw cavity. And it was the only part other then the screws and housing that could not be purchased from someone other than Techco. I have been looking for a solution to that and I guess on Monday I'll look a whole lot harder. But as long as that unit had oil in it from the beginning (yes, techco sent the unit out filled) and you don't see any signs of a external leak. That's the only place for it to go. If that is the problem, the noise you're hearing is most likely the bearing. That I can get you or give you the part number for. Here's what I suggest you do for now. Remove the belt and turn the screw by hand, it should be smooth. Make sure to turn it 90 degrees one direction and then back 90, then up 180 and back 90....do that several times and see if you can feel a bad spot in the bearing. If there is a flat spot, you'll know it when you feel it. Of course listen for noise. If you feel it lock up at any point, the bearing is shot. Now if it is smooth no matter what you do. I want you to start the motor and listen for any noise. She'll run just fine at idle and off idle to about 2500-3000. You got also wire the bypass valve open and get some RPM out of her. If you want to inspect the screw cavity, it's limited, but can be done. Drain the coolant, remove the front upper cover and remove the heat exchangers. If it has been leaking oil, you should be able to see some residue on the screws. It doesn't get hot enough to flash off the oil residue like it would with coolant. If it turns out you did lose a bearing. My suggestion would be to send the unit here unless you feel absolutely confident about do the job yourself. Removing the gears take a couple special tool and if you screw up the timing of the veins putting it back together, it would be very bad. Man is that an understatement. The oil for the gear set is Neo Synthetic gear oil 75-90W. At this point, I would suggest if you can removing the drain plug and check with a magnet for any ferrous metal. If you have lost a bearing, you find some. I have to get back to work bud, you have my number, don't hesitate to call Brad.
nitrous is for slow guys........ lol brad, do like scott said and call cam directly!! cam is much more fun to listen to in person than read his words....hehehehehe
Thanks everybody for the words and help. Also big shout to Hemi911 for calling Cam, I appreciate that! Cam, I can't really say for sure that the oil level was at the middle of the sight glass since the S/C was installed. Dont know really how much oil it is down at this point or even for that matter, how much oil makes up the system!! I will call you tommorrow because I want to clarify a few things. Unless our discussion tomorrow changes my train of thought, I think I am going to first take your suggestion and check the pulley bearing like you talked about. If that seems to be okay, then maybe I MIGHT consider getting the proper oil and filling it. Then I can at least figure out how low it is/was on oil. Unless you think otherwise, maybe I will drive the car some and see if my oil level goes down or not on the sight glass. If indeed I need to pull the S/C I will definately send it to you to breakdown and assess..... I will call you tomorrow! Thanks!!
Brad, Check to ensure that the water pump is working and that the water is actually flowing through the aftercooler...
FYI I just went and checked mine(looking glass window) and the oil is almost 3/4 full.. I have roughly 8k on the blower... Seeing this thread made me get up off my ass and check... Wish you luck in getting to the bottom of your problem.. Keep us fellow SCREWED guys in the loop...
From your picture it looks like you don't have the 90 degree "crack pipe" fitting where the breather plug goes. What can happen is the blower oil will work its way out the breather when it is horizontial. Yes fill it to the center of the sight glass, it can be higher it won't damage anything. It looks like it is at the very bottom of the glass which means the gears are still getting oil. Any oil on the screws is going to be from the PCV, especially running high boost. Fill it and see, I suggest not taking the blower apart yet just get a 90 degree fitting and watch the oil level, watch for external leaks. Good luck. The noise of the bearing if it siezed will be a high pitch squeal for a little time than will go away. One way to check the front pulley bearing is start the car cold and feel the snout it should get Real (burning your hand) hot faster than the motor. I highly suggest you fill it, with the fitting added.
The only issue we here at FAST have ever seen on a P/D have been bearing related. There are a number of companies out there, in the event Techco cannot help, that can do a bearing replacement, if that is needed. I am sure, that since SMS picked up the product line, they might be in a position to do so. One issue unique to the Ford Lightning blower, was that the coating on the rotors, after many, many miles started to come off. It deposited itself on top of the intercooler, temperatures would begin to climb, over time, and the knock sensors would begin to pull timing, and power went away. That issue I have never seen on any other style of blower other than the Eaton/Magnuson.
Does anybody know what LURKER is referring to when he calls it a 90 degree crack pipe fitting? I am guessing that the breather plug is the plug that is just above the oil sight glass in my picture? If so when I guess I need a 90 degree brass elbow fitting that screws into the side of the S/C housing and then I need to move the breather plug to the other side (top side) of the 90 degree brass elbow? Car is at home....i dont know if I have that kind of clearance??
Brad...or anyone...if yall need bearings, let me know...it's what i do. Cam...on the HP seals...do you have any specs or pics you could share with me...i should be able to help there as well. Brad, on the fitting, I remember seeing some threads around on it, try a search.
Brad, look at my picture. You will see I have the 90* "Crack" pipe fitting (with breather). Your picture show's a straight through fitting.
