As most of you know, I've parted out about 98% of my car. Performance wise the car is back to stock. Stock airbox, stock wga, stock bov w/blue plate, stock pcm, full stock exhaust. Plans are when the funds are available to start modding this car for autox/road racing. I've heard it over and over again... "Go out there stock and then mod for whatever you need." Well the car is already modded suspension wise (sway bars, lowering springs, endlinks, strut bars, rear tension strut kit) so no point in going "stock" plus I don't want to mod for "minimum". I want to go all out. What I want is the car fully setup and just adjust things accordingly. So the things I need to work on... upgrading suspension... -Possibly coilovers (hate the fact that when one blows your screwed till you get it rebuilt might change to Mopar S1 Springs with Tokico adj struts instead). -Possibly upgrading from the budget sway bars (PT in front, ACR in rear) to either Mopar, Eibach, Progressive, or Hotchkis. I want adjustability in the rear. -Camber bolts -Mopar Rear Control Arms (for additional toe adjustment) Brake wise... I plan to get Slotted Rotors, Brake Pads, Speed Bleeders, Stainless Steel Lines, and upgrade the brake fluid. Safety... -If I get the guts to cut my Viper Seats I plan to get the Harness inserts from CBD and get racing harness's. -Autopower Street/Race Roll Bar Towing... -Tow Hook for the front (not keen on cutting my front bumper so I think I found a good place for it bolted to the cross frame where the radiator brackets are and coming out from the driver side nostril. -Tow Hook for the rear (probably not going to happen since the ones I've seen there was a slot cut in the rear bumper and I don't want to cut the bumper). There's other additional things I will need like helmet and so fourth. I'm sure I've left things out. Brands, suggestions, ideas, information... I am all ears so please reply and help me out. I really want to set up the car for this. I understand it will be a while, take a lot of patience and a lot of practice. Of course $$$. Hence why this is just my planning thread and it will be awhile before I start modding for it and before its complete.
I know you've heard it a million times and I am sorry but I'll have to say it again lol, but seat time is the most important thing. I am not saying go stock, I am just saying go get the experience with what you have first and adjust accordingly. Since not everyone needs the same mods, whether it be because your classes require or restrict different mods or because your driving style differs from someone else's and your needs are different, that's why I can't just say get this, this and that. For example, there is no point IMO in spending 1000 on coilovers if you have limited experience enough to only take advantage of maybe 200 of that investment. It takes a while to master and tune the suspension to where you want it too, especially if it's relatively new to you. I remember being told by an instructor that some places do not want novices to come with R compound tires or heavy suspension because it tends to hide mistakes and they just say go with what you have. Most instructors will say that the most valuable thing you can do is go out there and get that experience. Like I said I know you've heard it, but its VERY important, which is why you hear it a lot. Every thing on that list will help the car no matter what, but how it will help you is a totally different story. If I could go back and do it again I would have never modded before I knew the car inside and out. I'm just trying to help you get off on the right foot if you are seriously considering this. Also I would throw tires into the mix of those mods you are considering, because they are IMO one of the most important things you can do for your car. But like I said I can't tell you what you need, only you can know what you need and that will come with more experience.
I've read it over and over again. Mostly tires is the main thing I've seen stressed. I've gone all way back to when SRT-4's were new to the market and scene to the point there was not swaybars made yet for them and people were looking for options. I would like to go prepared. I'm not going to go out there and burn up my stock brakes, possibly destroy my stock rotors and fry my brake fluid. As I already know it can happen. I understand seat time and gaining experience. Yes my setup could be just fine. I can go out and not want to change or add anything but that is not the point im trying to come across. I want to have an autox/rr prepared car. Adjustability in the suspension is key I would think. Nothing on my current suspension setup is adjustable so I can't make changes even if I wanted to. I've gone over a lot of people's setups as well as researched and read on setups on these cars including touring, autox, road racing, to the different classes. Definately I understand experience. Its needed in any type of vehicle exhibition sport. But so is a well prepared car.
Okay lets take a subtle approach... On my list as of current for a more subtle setup then going overboard... Progress 22mm Rear Sway Bar Eibach Camber bolts Front & Rear Going to keep the PT Cruiser Front Sway Bar since its 26mm. The car currently is running the ACR rear sway bar which is 19mm. I will not get the Mopar Rear Control Arms unless needed but that will come with time and experience. The Eibach Sportlines Springs are a pretty rough ride street wise, what about on the actual track? I know try it out and see haha. I was thinking if I were to stay with springs that maybe the Mopar S1 Springs would be a better choice. Then I was thinking: Stop Tech Stainless braided lines (Front) Motul RBF600 Race Fluid Hawk Brake Pads Slotted Rotors Speed Bleeders Atleast I'm more subtle then what I initially started this thread about but like I said I don't want to go "stock" and I will work with the current setup and upgrade some. Trust me I'm not ignoring any sort of advice, if I didn't want advice or critism I would have no created this thread.
I understand your point, I just want to make sure that you know that the driver is more important than the car when you enter the autox/rr world. That's all I'm trying to stress by saying get some seat time is all. I get my ass handed to me by POS cars with incredible drivers all the time, I just don't want you to be disappointed in your car if you spend all this money to set it up and end up in the same situation. But back to the parts, Why not just use OEM blanks for rotors and a good pad? Our brakes are very good stock, not to mention blanks are a lot cheaper to replace and I think they are plenty for now. Also which Hawk pads are you thinking? I personally have only used the blues and the ht-10's and I like them both although the ht10's are pretty harsh, but I want to try the hp+ next because I hear decent things about them.
I'm looking to learn the car as well as enjoy it. I'll be a noob but if I keep my mind set on it eventually I will get good. Not pro... but good haha. I just want to go out there and have fun! As far as rotors... why OEM blanks? I was going to go with: http://www.maperformance.com/rotorpros-brake-rotors-srt-4.html
sorry edited my other post. I personally like the OEM blanks. A friend of mine in NY got me into using them rather than go with slotted and I have ever since. They're cheaper to replace and my braking was not much different between the rotors when I was out on the course, mainly because I am still new myself and I can only take advantage of so much on the brakes that and once the slotted's wore down quickly they essentially just became blanks. When we switch around the pad compound combinations is what I have seen work best for me and some of my friends. That's my opinion but it's worked well for me. Yes the slotted's are superior in function but for my driving and times, It hasn't justified the price to keep replacing them when the blanks have done the job just fine with a good pad and at a cheaper price. Idk too much about those rotors from MA Performance. When I got my slotteds I just went with the powerslots from modern.
I'll use the OEM blanks first to see how they perform. If I ever need to upgrade I'll just go with slotted. I was thinking either Hawk HPS or HP+ for brake pads. I was more for the HPS since they are still a street style pad and I rather kill those while I learn then jump to the race pads like HP+ pads. Thanks for the help!
you can get a set of ebay rotors and just go stright to hp+ pads they work fine on the streets and both skittle and cruiser are running them daily. if your going to keep the springs go with Koni adjustables you can get them around the same price as tokitos and have better adjustment, the sway bars you have will work fine im useing the 26mm front and my dual sway 17/19 rear with no problems either, the Mopar Rear Control Arms are a great way to also stiffen up the rear but you can also just buy the energy suspention bushing kit and just replase you bushings though its easier to just buy them. if you can find a place that sells used tires thats what i would start with first even if you have 4 miss matched tires they'll last through a few events and shouldnt cost much. exp. i spent $300 on tires this year which is 12 tires at $25 a piece i got lots of events out of them and learn alot it may not be the best way to do it but it wont break you pocket. ive been running on used tires for 3 yrs now and get wired looks when i pull up and people ask what kindof tires im using and even weirder looks when i run faster then them.
Sweet! I will do that with the rotors and pads. Any links to the Koni adjustables? Sites that sell them. The bushing kit for the rear control arms. Got a link to them? How hard are they do install? As for the tires, great suggestion Nevin!!! There's a few used tire places by me.
you can find them on google or over at Pwerks. http://www.performanceautowerks.com...ucts_id=217&osCsid=3ep75bjri5spbuo4pbn6u7i2b7 the bushings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ENER...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories the bushings you have to cut out the existing ones and burn off the excess and install the new ones. i had aready gotten the mopar rear control arms and just gave my bushings to Mario (505streetracer) and he said it was a PITA to clean them out and get the new ones in. the bushing are worth doing stock or modded. and do get all your lines steel braded and get some speed bleeders too them make bleeding brake wonderful!! theres a thread in here about them. and if you aready have the ACR sway bar and still have your stock rear bar, make a dual rear bar like mine, it works like a 24mm. thread also in here.
Mopar Rear Control Arms you mention is the same as the Mopar Strut Tension kit correct? If so I already have them. I got them when I purchased the S&P Stage 1 Suspension Kit... http://www.speedandpowerdevelopment.com/PURCHASE/SUSPENSION2.html Thank you Nevin I really appreciate the links. I didn't even know Pwerks carried those lol and I'm always browsing their suspension section haha. I missed them *smacks head*. I do have the ACR rear sway bar and my stocker is sitting in the laundry room so I have it as well. I'll check the thread out again. I was going to go with the Speed Bleeders (I subscribed to your thread). Any suggestions on which company to go with on the SS lines. Links? I know your the man for deals!
that one thread was titled "fuzzy eyes" yeah the S&P S1 kit is freaking sweet thats what i got. as for the brake lines i just went with Techna-Fit Brake Lines because they were all 4 for $100 http://www.jscspeed.com/srt4/brakes/brake_lines.htm
Sold the setup and most of the suspension parts when I needed the money to get the S3 kit. All I have now is: Eibach Sportlines Exhaust Depot Fender Braces Energy Suspension Rear Endlinks Mopar Rear Tension Strut Kit
