Bud (NA) vs. Momo (Vortech) Race Videos

Hopefully I did this right... Rick is trying to help me. This is me and Moe before the new pully. He kicked my butt a few times as I sat there spinning the tires, still spun a little on this one, but pretty much just had to let off the break, let it roll a little, then get on it when it hit second. Broke traction a few times in second, but usually held up pretty good. These are brand new Toyo tires and feathering the launch. Moe has this track down pat and he gets out of the box like a cannon.






http://http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=Lsa2G0XcmGo

 

Something about your sig area looks really screwed up! The video works though!! I'm glad you finally kicked his ass!!! hehe

 

what is with everyone's sigs?!?!?!

 

NOT a fan of having to scroll to see them.

 

Lol! Thanks for the link. Once I figured out the traction, still with some ugly 60' times, it definitely comes alive in the higher RPMs. Crappy 1/8 mile track, need a "real" track and 1/4 mile.

Must be a new "space saver" design...

 

X eleventybillion

 

Must be an Airdale term...Lol!

 

X eleventybillion and one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

FIXED. I just went to my "options" in the user cp and turned off signatures! LOL

 

i was thinking the same thing.......

 

OK, usually use .1 second for 1 car length in the 1/4 mile. All your caculations have no allowances for inertia.

I was the 1st in the country to have a 3000 Stall converter, 1000HP halfshafts, DR's, and the Quaife. Ron was the 2nd. We run 1.6 to 1.7 60's. Shorter DR's would improve the 60's. We are usually DA challenged. I haven't been to the track with the new motor. NA, the 426 feels like the H/C 100 shot stock block. Your Vortech cars will do no better than that with all the goodies. None of those things will make any difference on a roll race other than the converter. If your crusing in drive at say 1800 RPM, and you kick it down, you'll flash immediately from 1800 to 3000. Quite a fun sensation. For daily driving, the converter is the best upgrade.

Pulling timing down low will decrease cylinder pressure, thus keeping you from collapsing your top piston ring land the way N2O guys did with just a WOT switch. Keep increasing boost and timing with a stock block, you will be on borrowed time.

My N2O didn't engage till 4000 RPM with the stock block. JMatt made a believer out of me with his 3 stage 275 N2O setup. If you engaged it all at one time with a WOT switch, you'd blow the motor immediately because of the massive increase in cylinder pressure. Guys did it with a 150 shot. I would like to lower it to 3000 with the 426, but somthing else will break, or the DR's will break traction. We'll find out. My 150 shot is an immediate 150 HP and 225 TQ. No SC does that. Mild tune 623/650. You think you have tracton issues. LOL


Do your roll races in drive. Chose like 20 MPH and 60 MPH. No advantage for being in boost. This is a real world comparison to each other and to Rick. No excuses.

 

Plus actual speed in the 1/4 makes a diff to. A 300 mph car is moving a lot faster then 125
Good post Hal! I think a converter would help a bit for us with the poor 60 foot times since we can get out of the range of more static drag from the blower. When I ran rick from 60 to 120+ i put 6-7 on him. Like you said this is a better test. I can only imagine the traction issues your having with those RSA's I think most of mine would go away with just a LSD and good half shafts. Right now launching my car is as best as I can describe it not hard but takes practice since it comes out ok but after your out the boost comes on like a large cam in a high reving big block. Very similar to a car I drove with a 300 shot but not as hard of a hit. For sure not the instant gratification!

I am seeing about 7.5 psi in the top of 3rd and with the meth kit I am seeing cat temps about 1100-1250. This just a little higher then stock but I am hoping its cooling it down enough and increasing the octane enough to increase the life of the ring lands...time will tell...I agree that the stock ring lands arent worth much more then 8psi and even that might be pushing it. The gains you might see from upping the boost would have to coincide with such drastic drops in timing that I bet you loose more then you gain.

If we ever get a chance I would 1 like a ride and 2 like to do some runs. I think you will still run me in the 1/4 just do plain and simple to the fact that you make more low and thats what gets you going I would also like to try that 60 up run. I think it will be much closer then the 1/4 runs.

As far as N20 you cant beat instant gains but with your setup id love to see a roots style kit on it. In a bit I am going to most likely do either a 392 or a 426 short block and switch to the t trim and up the boost to about 12 psi. I am hoping in the long run to see 650 rwhp with a better curve down low from the stroker. Right now I am leary of adding to much timing down low for exactly what you said about cylinder pressure. This will be fixed with better pistons!

 

what mods did (BUD) have on his car? MOMO,your car looks damn good.

 

Zoomers, Mopar CAI, Magnaflow high flow cats, Vredesteins, and a B&G email tune. Jason had Zoomers, Vortech blower, Magnaflow high flow cats (I think Vortech put them back on for him...but not 100%), Vredesteins, and a really conservative Vortech tune.

 

do not be so modest rick...... you also have one hell of a driver!!! lol