I just started messing with my car again, and have had the B&G in there for a while...trying to get a custom tune, so to start that I had to put the Diablo tune in there and start from scratch. Before I swapped the tunes, I wanted to compare the two just for shits and giggles. I did 2, 1/4 mile runs with my DashHawk configured with 4300 pounds, 24" frontal area, and .33 drag coeff. One with B&G, and one with Diablo CAI 93. Results: B&G 11.87 @ 120 Diablo 12.56 @ 116 My question: By looking at my signature, what kind of changes should I make to the canned Diablo tune to get some power/time back? The Diablo is much better as far as drive ability and overall responsiveness, but I can definitely fell the power loss in the SOTP, and can see it on the Dashhawks instant hp readouts. I'm sure a custom tune would be best, and I'll get that ASAP, but i'de like to have the streetabilty and the power....any suggestions?
Was the B&G custom for your motor? Did you do any logging? (and how come your wideband isn't in there yet?) I would expect the Diablo tune to be kind of lean.?
Not really, just a B&G Stage IV...I spoke to Dave before getting it, but if you know Dave, he beats to his own drum. Still trying to decide which WB AFR gauge to get and where to mount etc etc... Why do you think it would be on the lean side? I can do data logging with my Dashhawk, and have...It's got alot of knock retard in both, and only around +12-15 degrees of timing...but I have a header leak on passenger side, so I'm attributing some to that...
Headers, 80mm TB, all that fancy intake work, heads, cam, .... at least the DS tunes are assuming a stock motor. No idea about a B&G stage IV. As soon as you add headers (long tubes more than short) you're going to go lean a bit right? Then you have crap loads of other stuff. I think most people would say you shouldn't even run it without a custom tune. What does "a lot of knock retard" come out to? and is it pretty steady? or does it usually spike and then taper off at about the same rate? or does it ramp up the same way it ramps down? and how does the knock retard compare from the B&G to the DS?
Good points...It's been a while, still knocking out the cob webs...The KR is sparatic...it will go 3 to 5 to 2 to 8....both tunes...I figure the leak is the main cause....I adjusted the WOT fuel to + 8-10-12 %...Didn't WOT it yet, it's raining. The adaptives are adjusting for closed loop and keeping it safe for now. I'll be emailing Steve at RDP the files for his adjustments as soon as I can.
Hopefully that's at WOT... You've talked with Steve right? You can tell him just what you like about each tune and what you're looking for. Email him the logs too... actually he can deal with Predator log files and the DashHawk ones I'd think you'd have to take a screen print or something. Heres the max knock retard the pcm will pull. RPM, deg* 6500, 10 6000, 12 5000, 12 4200, 14 3600, 15 3000, 17 2000, 18 1200, 20 600, 20
Kyle when I had mine I tried the Predator WITH the stage 4.....it was pretty cool.I returned the car to stock,plugged the stage 4 in and used the predator to read it as the base tune....then I just went into the modify stock tune menu and set the idle and other parameters where I wanted them.....kept it like that till I got a CMR.Put the stock PCM back in for the CMR....still have the stage 4 on the shelf.
Hmmm...didn't think of doing that Erik...Thanks...and yes Dave, KR is at WOT...I spoke to Steve briefly today, very cool guy, and happy to help...My kinda peep. I told him i could log...first things first, get set up to email stuff to him and what not...he's walking me through it. I''ve been away to long...this is so elementary to most, but i'm and old noob...
I was thinking that... you might have a really old B&G too. I think there was some point there where the old B&Gs didn't work with the Predator and Dave had to fix them or something like that. Can't remember, but he was charging people for converting their B&G tune to one that could be loaded with a Predator?
When the predator's were first released, i ordered one, and it wouldn't work with the B&G it gave me an error message when plugged in...so i sold it...about the same time was when i stopped messing with it... so fast forward a year or so....I have another pcm also with B&G stage iv, I ordered another predator and had intended on using it and flashing back to stock for CMR tuning....but I thought maybe since it's been so long, Diablo may have done a fix...so before I changed anything i figured Ide try and plug it in and see what happened...It worked! Sweet! It looks like whoever B&G charged for whatever he did, got screwed. I REALLY need to get my WB AFR done before i begin getting to deep into tuning though.
I just called Dave and told him I owned a B&G Stage II. For free, as a loyal customer, he had me give him a list of my mods and do a few Predator logs and email them to him. We went back and forth a few times until he felt good. The car runs like a raped ape now compared to what it did.
I tried modifying stock tune and ran worse, I loaded the original back up file (B&G stage IV) and ran again...11.98 @ 119...So I left that in there for now until I can get set up to exchange emails with Steve and get it tuned in. One thing i'm getting with the B&G that im not with the Diablo tunes is a code P0300, Random Cylinder Misfires at idle...Any ideas why? It's pulling about 25% LTFT at idle on both tunes.
You need some time ona dyno to dial that combo in, no matter what. The Predator tunes, as Quick mentioned, are not at all designed for use in a 426 application. You need to have your injectors scaled properly, as well as some extensive tuning for the cam, not to mention the ported heads and increased displacement. To get the best of both tunes, get with a CMR tuner and let them have at it. Thanks Mike
Thank you Mike, that is the plan...I went to my local Radio Shack to get the USB and power supply, and they were out of them...should be back into stock tomorrow. Reading the instructions, it says I need either/or of the items mentioned above...From talking to Steve at RDP, i think i need both...which is correct? Sorry for the noobie questions, but i'm just getting back into my car. Thanks.
You probably want both. To move tune files between the PC and the Predator you will need the serial cable. If you have a laptop you could use the car to power the Predator and have it hooked to your PC with the serial cable (either a laptop or a really really long cable). This is also how you would hook it up to do live logging on the PC. If you went without the power supply it would go like this (assuming you don't have wireless internet). Get your tune from email in the house onto the PC. Then go to the car with PC and laptop. Plug Predator to PC with the serial cable and Predator to car with the OBDII cable (for power). Download tune file to Predator. Write tune file to car get logs
Kyle go to SHR and have them CMR tune the car dont mess with the predator unless you for sure know what your doing you dont want ot blow up that 426 of yours
I know, i know....i just don't think i'm on Eddies short list...he's got a bunch going on with the Cult car, and others...He said it would be mid July at best before i'm on the to do list...It's not his fault, i'm just ready to be done and enjoying my 426....Been a few moons since installed, and it has never been right.
