I seem to have problems every summer w/water spots. What I've tried so far: several different washes, a few cleaner waxes(Mothers & Ardex), a few waxes(Ice & Ardex), detail sprays, clay bars(Mothers & Ardex) & of course I dry(the best I can, the sun dries it quick sometimes)using Eage1 wax-while-u-dry. The spots almost appear to be burnt into the clear. They also form on the glass surface, & are very hard if not impossible to remove from the glass w/glass cleaner(w/& w/o ammonia). I have also used a RV style inline water filter, which seems to help but not much. I think I have very hard water. Anyone else have similar problems? Any solution? TIA.:dunno2:
Here's a couple of quick thoughts: Wash either early in the morning or later in the day to minimize the water drying on the surface before it can be wiped off. For existing water spots you can also try the following: Detail spray Clay bar for more stubborn spots Distilled white vinegar/water solution On the exterior glass only: #0000 steel wool. Exercise care around black rubber/plastic trim pieces as it will scuff those surfaces. A micro-abrasive such as our TC-8 Swirl Cutter or new Swirl Cutter Plus on the buffer with a white or orange pad may be needed to remove the spots should the other methods fail. Reach me here or at [email protected] with any other questions.
Yep, water spots are not ON the surface they are IN the surface. Definitely Steve to get out what you have. Then you need one of these to prevent it in the future. http://crspotless.com/ I want one of those soo bad but can't right now. The sun hits the driveway about 10 am so the car has to be dry by then when I wash it...
Thanks guys, keep the info coming. I started the thread to hopefully bring out any & all solutions/options/opinions. Quick, I saw that posted before it looks very interesting. Has anyone used these $300-400 filtration systems?
Sounds like you may have to use one of the more aggressive removal methods. I have heard and read a fair amount about this product. At this time here in north Texas, it is already 80 degrees by 7:00 AM. In my location, I have about 2 hours before overhead sun exposure. I try to get my washing and drying completed before then or use a 10' x 10' canopy for later day work. Recently we have used these 2" thick foam sanding blocks for very light blemish removal including hard water spots. This one has a 3000/3500 grit latex self-adhesive wet-dry sandpaper attached to the block. We sell these for $1.41/sheet and this particular block lists at $6.85 each. We have several other block styles and grits available for removing orange peel as well. For more details about these items, contact me at [email protected]
I Hvnt, but i want one, Here is a link to one i was thinking about. i dont get real bad spots, but if wash her in the heat of the day it dries way to quick and i have to use Detail spray. http://www.autogeek.net/waterfilterkit2.html
hmmm, I'd be a little skeptical just because of the size. Assuming it works well I wonder about the capacity and then the flow through that thing. I need about 7 gallons just for the soap water in the bucket. (haha, here goes...) Dedicated garden hose chemical sprayer for spraying the whole car with car wash soap and water. Gently. We're not trying to blast any dust and dirt off yet, just let it soak a bit and let the emulsifiers lift the stuff off the car. One of these works ok. But I really want one of THESE (about $50 or $75 I think, Jdoria game me the link but I saved it on the other PC): http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31807&postcount=19 After maany hose nozzles I'm using one of these (all stainless, rubberized, spray and pressure adjustments and a fireman's handle to work the ball valve shutoff -- nice): Then I do the car in (umm, let me see...) 13 sections rinsing between each one so the soap doesn't dry on it. So I need a bit of capacity and I don't want flow/pressure restriction.
The use of a filter brings up another problem I have, poor water pressure(well water). I'd have to use a pressure washer w/the more restrictive filter. The cheap RV filter I use does little & it is at least 2 stage, mesh & carbon.
that my friend is a piece of ''CRAP''. i bought one of those things from LOWE'S,came home,hooked it up to the hose,turned the water on and the middle of the nozzle blew off. waste of $20.00.
Oh well. Mine's been like a rock. Constantly dropped on the driveway after each spray. I really like the spray pattern(s), no restriction, and especially the handle on/off. No need to twist the spray adjustment all the way one way or the other. I'm always open to trying a better nozzle if you have a recommendation.
Is it best to wash w/dish soap to strip the current wax, to get to the water spots? (obviously no dish soap after)
Dish soap is good but may take a few washes to remove all the wax, try getting some clay bar and filling a spray bottle with Isopropyl Alcohol and clar bar the jeep with that it will remove the wax and it dries quickly, did you check your PM
The use of pre-soak with a foam gun will help to minimize or eliminate the chance of inflicting new scratches on the car during routine car wash. The lubricity of the soap solution as it is sprayed on the car will surround the remaining surface dirt and allow to be safely removed with the wash mitt. We offer and use a dedicated heavy duty Gilmour Foam gun with 5 different soap mix ratio settings priced currently at $58.99 with a 12 ounce bottle of our car wash concentrate: http://www.tropi-care.com/product_p/75qgfmr.htm Foam gun action video: http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/...may17/?action=view¤t=99_z28may17-07.flv Through July, save 10% with code"10offTC" making it around $53. Very good choice for the hose nozzle too.
Thanks man. I have clay bar, & I like them. They don't get all the spots off, but some are under several coats of wax. I also seem to have scratches caused by the clay. I always use spray detail lube, & fold the bar after doing 8 sq in. It's probably my mistake. The foam gun looks very interesting.
