I just picked up a 04 stage 3 and had a few questions: 1. What boost does the stage 3 run? 2. On the fuel rail there is a nipple where does that have to route to? It went to the throttle body but I don't have an after market bov anymore 3. What vac lines can I completely take off? 4. It came with a greddy bov and I put everything back to stock and i'm only getting 7 psi? Did a boost leak test and didnt find anything.
wga is connected to the sol. All the lines are stock. So with that shader fitting, can I just cap that off then? It had a line connecting to the bov when I had the greddy in
1. 18-22 depending on weather and the car. 2. the nipple should have a blue vacuum hose that gets attached to a source at the tb. it has nothing to do with a bov. the s3 set up is a returnless setup that changes pressure based on vacuum/psi. so that line is VERY important. get it back on there. 3. s3 uses all vacuum lines if you're running a stock set up. 4. sounds like you're runnign directly off the wga. check all your lines as one is probably disconnected.
Well after looking over everything again and found that it may be my wga. I was able to move the wga arm back and forth without to much effort. This a bad wga? Hard to believe it would be since it happened out of no where. Well which after market wga do you recommend for a stage 3 car?
Not neccessarily. Sounds like a vac route issue. My wife's car is a DCR modded S3 w/toys with almost every bolt-on and she has all her vac lines as well as is running an AGP s3 wga on pcm controlled boost. If your running the stock wga, then you should be running it on pcm controlled boost. So you should have the green line from the solenoid going to the back of the turbo. The black line should be going to the wga. There should also be a bleeder filter on the last nipple of that solenoid. Without that bleeder filter you will be limited in boost which thats what sounds like its happening. I learn this from a friend stock pcm w/s2 wga who removed it and ended up just boosting 4-7lbs.
I don't get this bleeder filter on the last nipple. Could you provide a pic? I have the green line running from the solenoid to the back of the turbo. Black like going to the wastegate. I put everything back the way it was before I had this problem, and still having the same issue. I don't believe its the vac lines.
I'm wondering if it has to do which my boost dial on the toys? Cause I get the same amount in every number. Its running boost numbers like at dial 0. Where would I check to make sure that the dial is working right?
I'm not at home right now to take a picture. My digital camera is at home. Its on the same solenoid the green line and black line are on. Its suppose to be at the bottom nipple of that solenoid. Its a black rubber piece with a 90 degree plastic piece that has a small filter in it. Did you reset the pcm after changing things?
Remember, the stock surge valve w/the pink line wasn't hooked up prior to and the pcm controls the surge valve. Any changes made on the car that pcm controls or see's the pcm must be resetted so it relearns parameters. I suggest disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for 30 minutes. Reconnect it after 30 min and drive... see if you can spike atleast to 15psi for the first 10 min.-10miles. Don't go past 15psi for the first 10min or 10 miles... whichever comes first. If it doesn't want to spike higher then what its spiking now. You might be missing that bleeder or something else is wrong.
Also, I don't think you can move the arm of the wga when the wga is bolted down completely. I have an s2 wga at home and you can turn the wga arm in circles which is normal. The wga works fine. You can also do this with a stock wga and if Mopar/Dodge s3 wga was designed the same way then when its not bolted completely on the car including the arm on the flapper you can turn it. Now if the arm is wobbling around, meaning loose, on the stock wga then something is wrong. If you can hold it on the top of the wga... the actuator and shake it and the arm is going everywhere then something is wrong. AGP wga's are the only wga's that the arms are loose and wobble which is perfectly normal on an AGP wga.
I have no clue about this small filter, never seem it on anyones srt. Post a pic when you get the chance. Yes I did reset. I'll give it some more time maybe it will go through.
I will post a picture tomorrow. This small filter came with ALL SRT-4's from the factory. It is actually on 2 out of the 3 vac solenoids.
I still have no clue, I looked at 2 other srt's and didnt see a filter. So please get that pic for me that would be the only way for me to know what you are talking about And thanks for everyone trying to help..... still having the problem so anyone with some input I will try. Never hurts to try different things to figure out this problem.
Thats a filter? Thats what mine looks like right now. I believe it is my wga leaking boost. I'm going to change that out and see what happenes
