Well I dropped my CAT pipes and put the turbos up in the cavities. I clocked the turbos and I can see a path for all of the plumbing. I am going to have to cut the outlet on the passenger's side turbo and weld a 90* tube to it so that I can get the wastegate to fit and have the outlet face the direction I need it to go. All in all this doesn't look as if it is going to be too hard to pull off, even with these Ginormous turbos. I am however going to need to build some support struts. These turbos are pretty heavy with stainless turbines. I also need to pick up some more stainless tubing, and I need to make a pair of flanges that bolt up to the factory hedders. I painted my wheels matte black lastnight. They came out beautiful and should hold me over for now since the wheels I want are $3500. I plan on getting some matte black vinyl work done. This is the end result that I am looking for. Ok many of you seen the pics already but here is some turbo porn.
so you are Turnpike. Any chance you can pm me some more info about who to contact about this turbos and price. Thanks. I dropped my new hood off(rk cowl) to get that flat black paint. I love that look
The Game Plan: When looking at this car I wanted to develop the most efficient system possible. I want to make more HP and TQ than any other forced inducted SRT at the same PSI (6-7psi). Ideally I want this system to function at it best in this level with room to grow. This is the reason for the ginormous turbos. The 60-1 wheels are great air movers @ low PSI levels, specially with the smaller TO4-B compressor housings. I wanted these turbos to be internally wastegated to reduce plumbing and chances of exhaust leaks, so I opted for the Mitsubishi turbine housing with a .55A/R. Combined with a p trim turbine wheel these turbos should be @ full spool easily by 2800-3000 rpm and not have any surge issues. The Chart below is the compressor map for a 60-1. I plotted a small line to represent where one bank of the 6.1L sits. The pressure ratio @ 6psi is 1.4PR (14.7Atmosphere+6PSI/14.7=1.4Pressure Ratio). 3.05liters (half a bank)x 6400 RPMs x 88 (guessed volumetric efficiency) x 1.4PR /5660 = 424CFM. Divide 424CFM/14.2 =29.9lbs/min or round up to 30lbs/min. So half of our engine @ it's highest RPM flows roughly 30lbs/min @ 6psi. You can look at the compressor map below and see on which island the engine will flow at. You can also use the same math above to increase/decrease boost and RPM to determine different senerios of the engine. (The plot below is for 8psi) Well now that I have the turbos down, lets move onto system design. I have always been tought that to acheive peak system efficiency you must reduce system volumes. The factory manifolds on the SRT 6.1 are excellent. I chose to make the shortest jumper tube from these manifolds to the turbos. More or less the turbos are going to be placed where the cats are now. From there I am running a 2" chargepipe from the turbos up the firewall where they will merge above the driver's side valve cover. This is the perfect spot for the Blow Off Valve (BOV). This is some thing that bugs me: Improper placement of the BOV. I was tought that the BOV should be placed as close to the turbo as possible. By doing this you directly divert the reflecting pressure wave away from the compressor and you blow off hot/pre- intercooled air thus stalling the already cooled air in the intercooler. This way when you stomp on the pedal again you get cool air. Speaking of intercoolers I love Liquid cooled or L/A intercoolers. Did I mention that water has 14x the capacity to remove heat that air does. Also L/A inetcoolers are generally smaller and enable you to place them closer to the throttle body and turbos, thus reducing system volume. The most important factor to remmeber when designing a L/A intercooler system is to size the heat exchanger properly. You want the majority of the coolant in the system to reside in the heat exchanger where the coolant will be cooling. This removes any chance of heat soaking that everyone associates with these systems. For this reason I have chosen a 2' x 1' x 1" heat exchanger So far that is the game plan and it looks like I might be able to pull it off.:towel:
I think the thread title is throwing them for a loop since a lot of guys here love turbocharged setups (especially on a fricken 8)...but are unfamiliar with the project title...but, trust me, it will grow lol! I'm totally interested to see what this thing produces..
i can't..... i am literally speechless!!! :surprise: your info is waaaaaay over my head but it is impressive to see such info on this site for others much more knowledgeable than i, to see!!!! well done and i look forward to seeing the finished product!!
Only 'cos my head hurts. :blink: I'm sure someone who actually understands WTF you're talking about will chime in with a riveting response. The rest of us retards will just look on in awe. :worthy:
I am doubling the injector size to a 60lbs/hr and doubling the map sensor. Then I will tune with our piggyback. By doubling the injector and map sensor there will be very litte fuel tuning to do and the car will be able to see boost. I will have to add fuel but not much. Also since the effective load is now halfed the ignition timing will have to be pulled back. All in all I will start off with 15* of advanced max then I will datalog and add in timing till I see signs of knock then I will back it off by a couple of points. Another option that I might go with is tie in a wideband into the piggyback the trim the fuel. I am also using the Predator for the portions of tuning that I can't do with a piggyback. I do have a local guy that is a big Diablo tuner, but for Mustangs. I might work with him to do a flash tune for everything.
Don't know if this helps, but HHP (I think it was them) wrote about new custom developed injectors for the 8...so that you don't have to use the 'other' injectors being used out there (which don't work as well) I know this raised the eyebrows of some of the F/I guys....Ron (1bad4dr) 'may' not a bit more about this....
