Mopar BOV Install

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by FWSRT4, Mar 9, 2008.

  1. FWSRT4

    FWSRT4 Platinum Supporting Member

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    This was originally posted on the Caliberforums by Grease Monkey. http://www.caliberforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5810
    Very well written so I figured I would pass it along!

    • Flat screwdriver
    • 1/4 inch drive ratchet
    • Short 1/4 inch drive extension
    • 10mm socket
    • 10mm wrench (buy a GearWrench, you'll thank me)
    • BOV plate and gasket
    • High Temp RTV Gasket Maker (Permatex preferably)
    • 3 M6 x 25mm long bolts w/ built-in washer or washers
    1. Allow engine to cool down as the compressor gets pretty hot after driving.
    2. Pop and prop hood. Use flat screwdriver to loosen aircraft clamps connecting intercooler pipe to intercooler and compressor and set aside.
    3. Remove oil cap and dipstick. Remove engine cover by gently pulling up to pop it off of the pins. Re-install oil cap and dipstick.
    4. (Optional) Remove top accessible bolts on compressor heat shield using 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet. The heat shield cannot fully come off, but you can move it around for more room. There is one on top, one towards the rear, one towards the left (passenger side), one on the right (driver's side), and one underneath.
    5. There is a small black L shaped bracket right above the surge valve plate that will need to be removed. Use the 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet for this. Remove bracket and set aside.
    6. With 10mm wrench, remove top bolt on surge valve.
    7. Lift the car.
    8. Underneath there will be two lines running underneath the compressor. You will see the two bottom bolts on the surge valve. Remove these bolts using the 10mm socket/ratchet.
    9. You are now ready to install the BOV plate. The side of the plate with the center hole will mount against the valve side, and the other side (w/ gasket) will mount against the compressor.
    10. Use small amounts of the high temp RTV around bolt holes and crescent shaped hole and line-up gasket. Press on gasket to squeeze out and excess and wipe off, and try to keep excess out of the crescent hole. DO NOT put RTV on the side of the plate with the center hole.
    11. Line-up plate on compressor housing. The crescent shaped hole needs to line up with the same shaped hole on the compressor. Line-up surge plate and put the first bolt (M6 x 25mm) through and tighten slightly.
    12. Line-up second hole and put bolt in. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN ALL THE WAY! Barely finger tight is sufficient at this point.
    13. Back on top of the engine, install top bolt. Tighten to 68 in./lbs. With a small 10mm wrench, the bolt should be just about as tight as you can get it without really cranking down on it.
    14. Back underneath the vehicle, tighten bottom bolts to 68 in./lbs.
    15. Wipe off any excess RTV if any has squeezed out.
    16. Re-install L shaped bracket and any heat shield bolts if you removed them.
    17. Remove dipstick and oil cap. Re-install engine cover by lining up and firmly pressing down until pins pop in.
    18. Re-install intercooler pipe.
    19. You're done!
     
  2. NEW2DODGE

    NEW2DODGE New Member

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    very clear and easy to understand/use writeup. will be putting it to use to night:pelvicsmilieys:
     
  3. FWSRT4

    FWSRT4 Platinum Supporting Member

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    How did the "shims" work for you? Still vent under vac?
     
  4. NEW2DODGE

    NEW2DODGE New Member

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    i didnt even use the shims. and it doesnt bother me at all. was i supposed to unhook that line on the surge valve?
     
  5. Jhenry

    Jhenry New Member

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    (Optional) Remove top accessible bolts on compressor heat shield using 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet. The heat shield cannot fully come off, but you can move it around for more room. There is one on top, one towards the rear, one towards the left (passenger side), one on the right (driver's side), and one underneath.