Brainstorming Ideas on Superchargers Quick Overview on what I have: My entire build 6.1 Hemi, 727 torque flight/ported and polished intake/ TTI long tube headers/ 180 thermostat/SLP under drive pulley/3:55. Gears sure grip/power steering delete pulley/ B & M 2400-2800 stall converter non lock up, 90 mm TB with nitrous injector, cold air intake, catch can, Cam specs Intake Duration 267 Lift .583 Exhaust Duration 270 Lift .566. Also I got the fuel issue solved and the car ran great. Well currently I have the car in the paint shop fixing the fender/hood and repainting everything. Well I have a promotion to Ssgt and reenlistment bonus coming the beginning 2012 so I'm about to either purchase the 426 short block or supercharge my current setup. I'm trying to come up with the best bang for my buck. I looked on youtube heard the sound of several superchargers and 426 hemi's I do like to race when I can get to the track. So people what do you think Supercharge or 426 stoker it's a big bonus so I can do a lot:happy: All ideas or welcome.
Congrats on the Promotion... I had a forged 6.1 and my current 426 with S/C. Honestly I loved the forged 6.1 with 12psi on my paxton. Never had issues with tuning. The 426 and S/C combo is awesome (torque monster from hell), but the 426 his giving me fits every once in a while. If I were to do it over, I would forge the 6.1 to a S/C spec, add a S/C and boost the piss out of it. IMHO. Either way you won't go wrong.
the crappy tune I have... MPG sucks Oil Consumption issues *however, there are exact reasons for this that I am aware of. Just need time and money to resolve*
If I would sell this beast (which Maureen won't let me. Had a buyer two weeks ago), I would FIX what I know is wrong (other than the tune). Or I would, as you know, would be up front with any issues that I am aware of.
I definately agree with Ron regarding forging the 6.1L and then boosting. I have the forged 392 which is boosted to 10lbs=@700rwhp and 11.3mpg. Can only travel about 150 miles and have to stop for fuel cause the ProCharger requires no less than 1/4 tank of fuel or I get multicylinder misfires.
People what can you tell me from your experience with the different supercharger you have purchase? What are the good and bad about them. I have looked at a few but as everyone know vendors are trying to sell you the supercharger so they are telling you all the good things about them and never the mishaps so i have come to the people who gives it to you raw. I'm not looking for any special band because if it's one i don't know about i would like information on that to. I checked article supercharger option but the article was a little old because several people were saying that edelbrock will be out soon so looking for more recent information. kenne bell vortech edelbrock magnacharger paxton procharger Slp Sms
You also should think about the capacity of your 727 and rear. For the 33 I'm doing, I built the 518 trans and rear to take 600 ft-lbs of torque. I have a heads/cam/forged 6.1 with 11 pounds of boost in the 300 and I love it. There are 2 major categories of blowers. Twin-screws and centrifugal. Twin screws deliver almost full boost and a lot of torque down low and centrifugal's build boost with RPM like a turbo. With as torquey as our motors are, I prefer the centrifugal. Its easier on the drive train (progressively increases torque instead of hammering it all on at once) and IMO easier to drive regularly. Plus, when you punch off with a guy who has a twin-screw blown 426...you can walk away while he's spinning his tires...right Ron?
A few question before my I put everything in motion. One how much boost will our stock internal handle? A common question I keep getting is how much boost do i want to make? I want a strong street car but be able to drive it every ofter weekend. My next question is if the internals require upgrades i figure it is a lot easlier to buy a short block already together than to take your engine and try to upgrade it. If you agree the only big different I see in engine is the bands names I know you get what you pay for and several vendors have the same bands in common. What is something I can do other then look at labor prices to find a solid motor? Last but not least what is considered high boost engines?
First thing to consider with boost is PROPER tuning will make or break you. Stock internals 6 psi max for daily driver and longevity, 8-10 psi if you don't care. Realistically, On a properly built forged engine at 9:1 CR, you could run as high as 25 maybe 30 pounds of boost with the right gaskets (Z-fusion Cometic) and head studs. Where you save on building a SB versus buying is the cost of the block itself. About it. If I were to buy a modern Hemi SB today, I would be looking at Modern Muscle, SHR, PWR, Arrington, Inertia in no particular order. They will all do you a fine job. Pick someone interested in your build and whom you click with and trust, also of course, price and lead time. PS...All short blocks are not created equal. Check with builder you choose and see what brand parts make up the rotating assembly. Also, for assurance, keep the stock squirters if you can. I think Superior is offering them for strokers now.
As said by Dookie! Depends on what you want and how much you want to spend, I run the OEM internals, nothing touched inside, 6 psi on my Vortech, Johan tune, I´m extremly happy with drivability and mpg, now I have to upgrade my tranny as it has started slipping, you also need a LSD of some sort, I run a Quaife, but there are others, I prefere the Quaife as there are no clutchplates to wear down, only gears. Listen to these guys, they have years of experience in beating and boosting the shit out of these cars. And I like the progressiveness of a centrifugal, but Ron´s twinscrew is very impressive! Fredrikizza:
