what mods?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by srt cummins, Apr 14, 2011.

  1. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    have a friend that just bought a 07 300 srt8 with 14,000 miles. he is going to do the hellion twin kit what other mods till he does the twin kit should he do? he's not going to build a motor till next year just to keep that in mind. and the elevation is 5,000 feet. this is what i told him
    180 tee stat
    oil catch can
    diablo tunner
    kook exhaust
     
  2. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Perfect.
    Personally I would change "Kook" to "Corsa".
     
  3. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    does it sound better cheaper?
    what about mbrp cat back exhaust can get it cheap bran new
     
  4. StevoSRT

    StevoSRT Moderator

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    My guess is that if he says Kooks he means the Headders and HF's (if any).

    What Catback does he have?
     
  5. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Corsa is a cat back. I prefer the sound. Subdued at part throttle and as loud as any at WOT. Only one I know of with no drone at any rpm/speed. They worked with Chrysler to optimize it for the SRT8 and I've never heard of a single quality issue. mbrp I don't think I've heard of. I think all the quality cat backs are in the same ball park as far as cost. I think kooks are popular for headers if he's going that route for now.
     
  6. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    the car is 100% stock. would he be wasting money to buy headders if the twin kit used the stock manifolds? would a cam be worth to do or wait for a motor build
     
  7. StevoSRT

    StevoSRT Moderator

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    Most people would say that cars with lots of airflow (built 426's and S/C'ed and Turbo cars) benefit from headders.

    More air the better.

    Would a cam be worth it?

    Depends on what you mean by "build the motor"....

    if "build the motor" means just forging it and no heads/cam/intake blah blah blah, then a mild cam would be a good choice.

    If ported/polished heads and such are in the works, then hold off for a bigger cam.

    Depends on what the end goal of the car is.
     
  8. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    Yes, the LT's will be 100% waste of money if he is going the TT route.

    Stick with the basic as you listed, minus the LT's.
     
  9. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    hey ron what worked best for you running hear in albquerque stock?
     
  10. ALABAMA MSRT8

    ALABAMA MSRT8 Full Access Member

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    why dont u tell your friend to join the site!?
     
  11. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    i told him he really dont get on the computer at all
     
  12. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    lol adding the super charger.

    Remember, back then, we did not have tuning.
     
  13. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    To me, your friend is putting the horse before the carriage. But if he insists to go TT on a stock bottom end, go ahead...if he goes above 550 RWT, and wants to hook it, and wants the tranny to live...buy a SHR tranny. He also should buy an ATI SFI flexplate. If he plans on running at the track a good bit, get a 3000 stall Protorque or PI billet stator converter, even with the stock cam, he will benefit his ET from the converter alot. Don't forget a nice LSD like a Wavetrac or upgrade the Getrag clutches if he already has that. I'de leave the cam stock...tuning will be much easier, and he will need the vacuum.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011
  14. srt cummins

    srt cummins Full Access Member

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    he only plans to run the car stock at the drag strip. the car will be more roll racing once and awhile. i told him not to twin it with the compression being so high. he only want 500 hp and thats it.
    what supercharger would be better cause i know the price will be a little cheaper
     
  15. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    Lots of good choices with S/Cing, but the CR isn't really the only issue, it's the hyper pistons and ring gaps. No matter what FI route he takes, it will be limited by that. Stay 8psi and under, it should live. The thermal is very important...make sure it's I/C and/or W/M injected for extra safety. A solid tune is a MUST...choose wisely who you get to tune it. I recommend Johan at Diablo Sport. Contact him here: [email protected]
    He works off of donations...email him and he will take care of you.
    If I was to do Centrifugal blower, go Procharger, Paxton.
    Positive Displacement style, KB, Magnuson, or Whipple.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011