Let me start out by saying that for the most part, there is nothing really wrong with my car. Except that it does not perform the way that I think it should. I read all over these forums how peoples cars with similar mods are strong enough to break traction in 1st and second gear. In addition to that, people make it seem like these cars should easily outrun mustangs and camaro's, whereas I have had trouble with even Mini Cooper S. This is my second SRT. My first one was new off the line 05 OB, and with a simple spring mod it would easily spin the tires. When I had that car dyno'd, I was putting down 254hp and 287 tq. This car, I can't spin the tires unless I drop the clutch. Here is the Dyno I did on this car. It shows only 220 hp which is less than stock, and the AFR's to be around 16. After this, I put the car back under PCM controlled boost because I was told that was the problem, and I also installed a Wideband. The wideband shows my AFR as 14.5 idle, and 10.5 WOT. This appears to be normal, however I do not feel the performance I would expect for a car that by all appearances is running normal. Lastly, my gas mileage has been pretty bad. I drive mildly keeping the car around 65 hwy speeds, and do not power shift off the line. I try to stay out of boost most of the time and only do it a couple times per tank. Yet I consistently get right at 2100-210 miles per tank. I did just order an Aeroforce Interceptor scan gauge, and once I have it installed, I'll be able to get more info, but I am a bit of a novice with this information so I will need assistance on interpreting the data. Any help from you guys would be appreciated. __________________
Have you talked with Sean from Solid Tech? Sounds like you may have a motor issue? Could be a tune issue, but from what you have described, sounds more coming from within the motor/turbo?
Not yet. Money is the primary issue. I don't have a lot of it, and that type of diagnostic can cost quite a bit. I would like to find out what, if anything, is wrong then fix it. If I have to I'll go that route, but would prefer not to.
BOY, do I know this feeling. I felt the same way with my Magnum SRT and it NEVER really ran all that great. After having the internal computer program updated and finally getting my Predator upload; NOW it runs AWESOME! Best of luck on finding what the problem could be!
That's a possibility. I am not an expert with turbo's so I wouldn't take my recommendation to seriously. lol Did Dave at Motiva offer any insight after your dyno pulls?
Hmmm the 16 afr worries me,you might have a issue with the tps and not changing to the wot mode with timming and fuel if you have a scan gauge see if the tps % goes to atlease 77% and the scan gauge is a badass gauge I've had mine for years now,try also doing a compression test and a leak down test to check the motors health
I just ordered a stock WGA for $25. When it gets here, I will switch it out, and reset the PCM to see if anything changes.
It has been a couple months, but the last time I did it, I could not find any leaks. I will do it again when I get home.
how much boost are you running? the reason i ask about the boost leak test is not because of your peak numbers, but rather because of the graph itself. A stock turbo srt-4 will see peak boost long before 4k rpms and then trickle down from there. it really should look more like this... (random graph i pulled off the net so i dont know spec's on the srt-4 who made this pull) Your graph looks more like a bigger turbo car which takes longer to spool. This is a good indication that there is some major boost leak. Do your boost leak test and report back. if that is ok, we'll go from there.
Ok, so I received the stock WGA and the Scan Gauge I ordered and switched out my Forge WGA for the stock one, and now my boost dropped to 5 PSI in all gears. I didn't change any of the vac lines. I will aso be installing the scan gauge tomorrow. What should I look for to give me an idea about what is going on?
ok, again do the boost leak test. Only seeing 5psi in all the gears would indicate to me that the vacuum lines are not hooked up properly... or there is a pretty major boost leak.
Turns out I have a bad solonoid. Not getting about vacuum through it. I switched back to my Forge WGA, and set it up off PCM control. I eventually want to go DSP, so I'll be needing a new solonoid.
Did you run the vac lines like I told you? Best bet is return the lines back to stock then start changing as things begin to work properly. The vac lines were run in such a stupid way you are better off starting from scratch.
Yeah, they were run they way you recommended since last year, and they car ran ok, but it just felt slow. Now I want more. I have confirmed that the solenoid is dead and will be buying a new one from the dealer soon. That is why it never really changed boost/driving characteristics from on PCM to off PCM.
Have you checked for boost leaks? A serious one can definitely rob you of power. Are your boost spike and hold normal for your outside temps in January, or do they seem off?