U0155 P0463 fuel level sensor circuit high voltage. P0443 EVAP purge solenoid valve 1 control CKT P0517 P0073 P0058 HO2S heater circuit high voltage bank 2 sensor 2 P0038 HO2S heater circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2 P0480 Cooling fan relay 1 control circuit Here r the codes I have on my trinty 3 codes I couldn't find on the list. R any of the codes something that I should really focus on.
P0073 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input. I don't see anything that sounds like it would cause great concern....? You suppose that's for emissions or could your gas tank blow up.
Those are codes from the PCM looking for the components the code refers to. When a sensor is unhooked, it throws a high voltage code. So its telling you your rear O2s, fuel level sender, cooling fan relay, and AIT sensor are not connected or malfunctioning. The only one that is a concern on your restorod would be the AIT sensor. The tune needs the info from that sensor.
EVAP.....evaporator? Could it be Air Conditioner related? I can't believe there are solenoids to control evaporation build in the gas tank? Would it be to let off excessive pressure from the "evaporation" of the gas? And if it is related to the gas tank.... then calling it a "purge" is odd....maybe a "vent" setup. What is there some sort of purge setup in the gas tank to keep down gas vapors? Purge with what?.....if it is not an inert gas (or some other gas that cannot support a flame) then the purge would not help the flammable nature of the vapor only the pressure....so that makes it a "vent"? .. ..
Engine 6.1 hemi, year 2006, mods cold air intake/ slp underdrive pulley/ inertia ported and polished intake/ long tube headers/ three speed 727 torqueflight transmission/ drive by wire setup/ b&g stage 1 tune/ 5.7 pcm flashed with 6.1 setting
Yea, you're probably right. It was just a guess... but the code is in the emission control category. I'm going with Adam on the AIT being the only one you need to address (will put the stock engine in limp mode). Maybe not hooked up or the sensor got broken on install? I'm thinking the P0517 is throttle body/actuator related? I'm guessing you change things up there maybe?
I would maybe think that throttle body actuator issues may pull timing advance. Aren't there a few codes that can cause this? So that may be a related issue.
There are 2 EVAP solenoids that are part of the fuel tank emissions system, neither is on the tank. The tank has a valve on the top to allow vapor to escape with changes in barometric pressure, temp, etc. Those vapors go to a collection canister (above the rear passenger tire on an LX). There is a solenoid on that canister and then there is a purge solenoid up in the engine bay right in front of the PCM that pumps the vapor into the intake manifold at idle. The code refers to one of these solenoids.
This information is really helping out alot b/c the last component I changed was the intake I recently had it ported and polished. this explain the P0443 EVAP it has to be on the intake because I don't have a solenoid on the rear of my car. I couldnt do any work today because of the snow but wil be full throttle tomorrow checking everything.
Everyone input has been a great help I have managed to clear several codes the only one I can't clear is the AIT. Some of the other codes come back but with a restomod that is normal. With the trinty I have a option that allow me to monitor this and it shows 68.19 F. Does anyone know what is normal and abnormal. I also found signs that my fuel pump about to go out I had the car idle and at certain rpm my fuel gauge mounted directly in front of the fuel rail would loss pressure could this also cause this problem or they have nothing to do with each other
Nothing to do with each other. ...losing fuel pressure is something you want to avoid though. AIT should be Air Intake Temperature (or something like that). On a stock 6.1 the sensor is right there in front of the throttle body (I think the PCM assumes it's physically located 4" infront of the throttle body). On the stock air intake it's almost at the elbow. Wires with connector that snaps onto the temp sensor itself. The probe part of the sensor is fairly exposed and they're fragile. They are also very sensitive to substances like silicone sealer, certain lubricants, etc. They seem to hold up to a fair amount of oil. They can be real stubborn when removing or replacing in the hole in the rubber intake tube or the grommet. I think your code was "circuit high"? Usually "circuit high" codes are cause by no circuit at all -- connector not plugged in or something like that. Normal range? It will be outside air temp if the motor is completely cold. Stock engine, it can easily run up to 140*F (maybe even 160*) in stop'n'go traffic (it gets hot under the hood ). Stock 6.1 PCM will start to pull timing right about 90*F and the AIT is factored into a number of other calculations. 68.19*F? that's odd. I would not expect anything in the normal range with an open circuit and the PCM would see that as perfect.
Still having problems the latest update I just finished changing the fuel pump the see what happen. When I first started having problems it was at 4000 rpms now they r at 5000 rpms so i'm thinking maybe this was some of the problem after this I change the fuel filter/ fuel regulate. Now the results are good from 0 to 6000 rpms when I shift to second at about 5000 rpms it starts to bust out feels like it not get enough fuel. Spec on fuel pump (55ghp/60psi) Also while idle my fuel pressure gauage reads 60 psi but if I rev the engine to the rev limit the pressure drops to 40 psi. Don't the engine require a certain amount of pressure at the fuel rails at all times if so does anyone know? I think 60 but uncertain b/c i'm lossing pressure and the car perform good under normal condition but while raceing or at high rpms I think my car drops is that normal or abnormal? Help anyone all ideas are welcome/ injectors maybe?
Sounds like you don't have enough fuel volume at the rail. What size fuel pump, line, rails, and injectors are you running? I ran into a similar situation when raising the boost on my 300. A larger fuel line and bigger diameter rails fixed it.
The fuel pump is a mallory inline fuel pump fuel flow rate 211 lph / max pressure 60psi / 55gph/ part # MAA-4193FI after the fuel pump I have a fuel filter regulator part # GF822. The metal lines are 5/16 in diameter. The fuel rails are stock and injectors are stock.
People as you can see it has been a long journey trying to figure out this problem but I finally got the best of it. I called Rock Valley order a fuel tank with the fuel pump built into the tank. It's supports up to 600 hp. I check my fuel rails and I have a constant 60 psi the only time I have a issue is when I get to maybe a 1/4 of a tank of fuel but the guys at rock valley warned me about this.This weekend Dyno here I come I'm really looking for big number a lot of part on this car so I hope I'm happy. Thank you everyone for all the input and yes it was the tank after I replaced everything from the fuel rails back. Also I replaced the head gasket and intake gasket and look what I found.
