Bulletproof drivetrain: SHR tranny installed

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by budoboy, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    Well a couple years back I broke a stock halfshaft, and the other halfshaft got stuck in the 215 rearend permanently. One Getrag 3.06 with upgraded halfshafts and hubs later I'm back to the track with a true limited slip differential. No more peg legged burnouts!

    Back to the track and my tranny starts slipping at the 2-3 shift every couple of runs. I get the BB valve body and my car has an allergic reaction to it. Shift to the Mercedes blue top solenoids per Eddie at SHR's recommendation and all is well. My tranny is a happy camper and doesn't complain.

    About a year later my stock driveshaft twists in half. Builder Bill to the rescue with a massive Chromoly driveshaft forged by the gods of metal I think it is big enough to power a U-Boat or small aircraft carrier. Unfortunately it weighs about the same as a torpedo.

    Meanwhile the Getrag begins to whine. Inferal to the rescue with his .99 cent washer mod No more whine.

    Anyways it is time to throw down some real power. I get ready to throw an extra 175 HP in nitrous at my heads/cam SRT8. This will put me over 600 rwhp and according to those in the know here at this site the stock tranny will do this:

    [​IMG]

    In the back of my mind I knew I wanted a SHR tranny. They've been at it for longer than anyone in the NAG1 upgrade business and had zero reported failures. Also they were about a $1000 less than their competitor.

    I debated as to whether I should install the nitrous first or the transmission first. I could always blow the transmission and send it back as a core. I figured the right way would to be to lay the ground work first and then step up the power. That way I wouldn't be worried about spraying through shifts or having the car towed home.

    I called up Eddie and he cut me a discount because I already had the blue top solenoids. He sent me a built tranny without a valvebody so I could re-use mine.

    It arrived exactly as promised and he even threw in a Mercedes trans pan with a plug and a filter for free (thanks!)

    My buddy Mao (DVSSRT8) has a friend who works at a Mercedes dealer in Stockton. Luckily his boss lets him do side jobs afterhours. I traded Mao a set of drag radials for the install.

    The shop was immaculate and it made me smile to see a Mercedes up on a lift next to my car with its 722.6 tranny sitting next to it. Exactly the same tranny.
    Mao's friend pulled that tranny out in like 30 minutes! Getting it back in though took 3.5 hours I was forced to check out the bar across the street

    Well a couple years back I broke a stock halfshaft, and the other halfshaft got stuck in the 215 rearend permanently. One Getrag 3.06 with upgraded halfshafts and hubs later I'm back to the track with a true limited slip differential. No more peg legged burnouts!

    Back to the track and my tranny starts slipping at the 2-3 shift every couple of runs. I get the BB valve body and my car has an allergic reaction to it. Shift to the Mercedes blue top solenoids per Eddie at SHR's recommendation and all is well. My tranny is a happy camper and doesn't complain.

    About a year later my stock driveshaft twists in half. Builder Bill to the rescue with a massive Chromoly driveshaft forged by the gods of metal I think it is big enough to power a U-Boat or small aircraft carrier. Unfortunately it weighs about the same as a torpedo.

    Meanwhile the Getrag begins to whine. Inferal to the rescue with his .99 cent washer mod No more whine.

    Anyways it is time to throw down some real power. I get ready to throw an extra 175 HP in nitrous at my heads/cam SRT8. This will put me over 600 rwhp and according to those in the know here at this site the stock tranny will do this:


    In the back of my mind I knew I wanted a SHR tranny. They've been at it for longer than anyone in the NAG1 upgrade business and had zero reported failures. Also they were about a $1000 less than their competitor.

    I debated as to whether I should install the nitrous first or the transmission first. I could always blow the transmission and send it back as a core. I figured the right way would to be to lay the ground work first and then step up the power. That way I wouldn't be worried about spraying through shifts or having the car towed home.

    I called up Eddie and he cut me a discount because I already had the blue top solenoids. He sent me a built tranny without a valvebody so I could re-use mine.

    It arrived exactly as promised and he even threw in a Mercedes trans pan with a plug and a filter for free (thanks!)

    My buddy Mao (DVSSRT8) has a friend who works at a Mercedes dealer in Stockton. Luckily his boss lets him do side jobs afterhours. I traded Mao a set of drag radials for the install.

    The shop was immaculate and it made me smile to see a Mercedes up on a lift next to my car with its 722.6 tranny sitting next to it. Exactly the same tranny.
    Mao's friend pulled that tranny out in like 30 minutes! Getting it back in though took 3.5 hours I was forced to check out the bar across the street

    [​IMG]

    Needless to say the time went by quickly.

    I checked out the stock solid flexplate and it was in perfect shape. No signs of cracks after hundreds of runs at the track and lots of 1.5x 60' times. I had bought the Builder Bill SFI-approved flexplate anyways and it was cheap insurance. The BB flexplate was maybe less than a pound lighter than the stocker.

    Even the Mercedes tech had difficulty getting the fluid level right. I think checking the tranny fluid requires a special 40 hour class. I ended up being a little too full but no big deal.

    I reset my adaptives and took the 1.5 hour ride home. Tranny felt same as before (cause I already had the blue tops). Now I'm ready for anything!


    Needless to say the time went by quickly.

    I checked out the stock solid flexplate and it was in perfect shape. No signs of cracks after hundreds of runs at the track and lots of 1.5x 60' times. I had bought the Builder Bill SFI-approved flexplate anyways and it was cheap insurance. The BB flexplate was maybe less than a pound lighter than the stocker.

    Even the Mercedes tech had difficulty getting the fluid level right. I think checking the tranny fluid requires a special 40 hour class. I ended up being a little too full but no big deal.

    I reset my adaptives and took the 1.5 hour ride home. Tranny felt same as before (cause I already had the blue tops). Now I'm ready for anything!
     
  2. Mains

    Mains Pobody's Nerfect

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    thats a hell of a post!
     
  3. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    I had a lot to say!
     
  4. cvp33

    cvp33 Full Access Member

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    How hard does the SHR transmission shift? If you're holding a slurpee at 60mph and you stomp the gas............approximately .04 seconds later your rear seat will be slurpee colored as will your right ear. Assuming you are holding the slurpee in your right hand.

    Oh and I couldn't pass this up....."allergic reaction". You slay me!!!!!
     
  5. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    Haha, I think your car had a similar allergy.

    The blue tops make the shifts harder but not crazy hard like when I installed the possessed BB valve body:stars:
     
  6. Rune Rider

    Rune Rider New Member

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    Ok, I'm new to the SRT and don't know or understand squat about automatic transmissions since this is the first one I have ever had 0ther than in a truck. Soooo, my question what the hell is the blue top that you all are talking about? Is it something that will make my stock transmission shift harder or is this a race transmission thing? I'm trying to learn so please forgive my ignorance.
     
  7. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    No problem. They are two solenoids that go into the stock valve body of the transmission that make the shifts firmer. They are a Mercedes part. The stock solenoids have brown tops.
     
  8. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Can you follow up with how that works/interacts with torque management? (for Rune Rider ... ok, fine, I don't have any idea either) The PCM does some torque management around shift points -- you can't have full power straight through the shift point. Torque management can be reduced for firmer shifts. So...

    1) Will these give firmer shifts without any changes/reduction to the tune/torque management?

    2) Is it that these will allow more change/reduction to torque management than the stock solenoids?

    3) both of the above?
     
  9. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    I really don't know. The shifts are firmer but not super hard. Biggest difference (and most important to me) was that the lagging 2-3 shift was back to feeling normal. When I started running low 11s in the 1/4 mile the tranny was not happy and the shifts started getting lazy. My buddy who was in the same boat mod and ET wise had the same issue and same results with the blue tops.
     
  10. cvp33

    cvp33 Full Access Member

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    Lazy = clutch packs eating themselves. Not good. SHR is the way to go if you're over 500 rwhp.
     
  11. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    I'll have to call Eddie and ask him to give me an autopsy report on my stock tranny. I wonder if you can see the burnt up clutches.
     
  12. SRT666

    SRT666 Platinum Supporting Member

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    Nice job jeff. Congrats. What do you mean by the "reaction"? I put the BB valvebody in and honestly, it feels like it shifts a bit quicker but not to dramatic. I stil also have shiftkit " silverbox". Wonder if you can wire in that in conjunction with a BB valvebody?
     
  13. budoboy

    budoboy Full Access Member

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    According to Bill there was an issue with my BB valve body's electronics. Mine shifted like crap. Overly harsh upshifts and downshifts and large pauses as it searched for each gear. I lost 3/10ths in the 1/4 mile with it.
     
  14. cvp33

    cvp33 Full Access Member

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    Same issue here. It got to where I couldn't drive the car without going into limp mode.