Of course the batt in my digital caliper dies now... Does anyone know the overall diameter of the lip on the hub? The bore in the wheel is approx 70mm. edit, did some searching. Does 71.5mm sound about right for our hub bore?
I just got back from the machine shop I used to work at while I was in high school (die-sets, pins, bushings, etc...not like a cool automotive machine shop). We were setting up the hone, and used some good calipers to measure. The hub was 71.5mm (with some slight surface rust) and the wheel bore was 71.1mm, 0.4mm difference (only needed to remove 0.2mm of material around the circumference). After a few passes w/ a fresh scotch pad, the wheels fit perfectly now WITHOUT torquing them on with the lug nuts. Will get the BFG DRs mounted up this weekend. I ran an 8.3 w/ a 2.0 short time. If I can cut a 1.7, I will be knocking on 7's door. Still stock with the canned 91oct tune:rockon:
The wheels look awesome...I bought Cobra replicas last year and if I had seen yours first I would have been all over them. I have looked around in my measuring literature and can't seem to find the with/without rust addendums... (LOL... I love it )
Sweet, looks like you're set. Again, be careful with your shafts, people have broken them with stock power. Just don't shock load them (lose traction and regain it under WOT) and you should be okay. Try to stage as high up against the converter as you can without breaking traction, when you leave, simultaneously let off brake and quick roll the gas, you want your rear tires just past the beams before you hit WOT, so it's pretty quick. Right there, is THE stickiest part of the track. If you blow the tires up out the gate, give up on the run and just let off. Better to come try again, than stay in it, catch traction after the beams and *SNAP!* I may be preaching to the choir here, but it may help someone else...Good luck dude!
The hole in the middle of the wheels was *slightly* too small to fit over the axle bolt hub "lip" (sorry, not sure what the official term for that raised portion is). The raised portion between the studs is too big. Even when the rotor is mounted, the lip still protrudes about 4-5mm past the brake rotor hat. So by opening up the wheel hub slightly, it lets the back of the wheel mount directly and flat against the brake rotor hat. Make sense? lol...
Thanks Jon:beerchug: I was very leery about buying them b/c I haven't seen ANYONE w/ an LX run them. But I know a TON of Mustang guys and figured I could flip them if they didnt work and only lose a couple bucks (if AmericanMuscle wouldnt return them). Not to mention the Cobra R reps were outta stock anyways... I'm glad I took the gamble, I think they look tits too:grin:
Ill be ordering the black ones I posted in an earlier thread +26mm ill find a shop to machine them around me, thanks!! Im about to order these: http://www.americanmuscle.com/17x9-03cobra-wheel-black.html
I just ordered these too! $250 delivered with da' coupon. Next will be the Nitto NT05r's. $333 on ebay. I've got $70 in Bing Cash from when I bought my Proxes + $17 in ebay cash. So under $500 for my setup. VERY HAPPY!
Right on! I took the BFGs out last week and wasnt too impressed, but I think the DA was much worse than the last time I raced. Gonna give them a couple more trys, then will be getting the NT05Rs. Oh well, the BFGs were dirt cheap. Was hoping for better results b/c I used them on my Mustang's old setup w/ GREAT success....
Thanks again for the hook up! Ordered these on the 3rd and received them on the 6th. Crazy fast shipping!
