I was asking 100 shipped but since you are local we can call it 90. Only way to tell with that type of wga is when you take the it off if the spring stretched or at equilibrium.
Is there a place on this forum to post stuff for sale? I have some stuff Im looking to sell or trade in order to get a Wideband so that I can watch AFR's
im still here. that car has my old forge WGA. the way the lines are routed are bypassing the solenoids except for the (red and white) lines. (green and black) removed and ran from back of the turbo to WGA. (black, pink, blue) "T" off the throttle body and ran for the BOV. (single line from intake to Green "T" check valve) is removed and capped. if its any different the dealer must have played with it. if your AFRs are that high id say lower the boost, back off the WGA down a few turns.
why should it not be connected like that? lot of SRTs are ran that way. Mario's the one who showed me that. i know that line can be deleted.
Well obviously there were some serious issues of the ECU knowing how much fuel to throw at it. I would hope to GOD a stock fuel system will handle 15psi on a stock turbo. The suggestion to bring it back to as close to stock as possible to insure the car didn't blow the fuck up. I am well aware that lots of cars run without Solenoids, most of them have an SAFC so the car knows how much fuel to throw at any given moment, when you pull the items that control your tune without giving it another way to think it is irresponsible and will do damage.
Yeah alot of SRT's are also run with breathers on the valve cover which is also wrong. Reminds me of this pic. Those two lines are connected to either side of a 3 way solenoid one side to the blue line, one side to vacuum (tb) and the center to the wga. So why on earth would you want to connect those? Plus he was boosting to 10psi and had a 15AFR which means its WRONG. You are removing or misleading the ECU yet still expecting it to take care of the motor. I'm also pretty sure thats not how mario has his and marios is a horrible comparison because mario has a totally opposite setup than this one. Not to mention marios setup works damn good. Edit: Ninja'd by mains.
the center one should be to the BOV no WGA I know that because he's the one who did it. that was back when i had purple 527s
ahh, my old car.. i'm so confused about that dyno or what the dealer did/may have done to it. that power seeems sooo low, and those AFRS seem soo high.. i've been in stockish srt-4s and nevins neon. i find it real hard to believe that the hp/trq was that low when i had it. and with the AFRs, thats crazy. shouldn't be running much different than stock, boost was set at 15lbs and it was pretty much off the silonoids, but thats it. if you want some better pics to post of the car, feel free to use the ones i took of the car. heres the last bunch i took before i traded it in. doesnt seem like the clickable thumbnails work, but if you view it and remove the th_ on the end of each link its fullsizish. if you have any other questions, email me again, sign up for my forums or post here.
Not the center solenoid the center port on the solenoid. You can argue all you want but the low boost and high AFR's say that the current set up was wrong.
There was one other weird thing the other day. After Sean fixed my Vac lines, I took it for a test drive, and it was a lot stronger, and boosting to 14PSI. I got home, and let it idle for a few minutes. When I shut it off, I could hear a bubbling/boiling sound from under the hood. It sounded like it was coming from the overflow. I asked around over at SRTforums, and I have gotten two different opinions. Some say its normal, but others say its a sign that the head gasket might be blown. What do you guys think? This only happened once.
Mine has done that many times before, I know my head gasket is still good... After Adding coolant or flushing it, it has stopped... I would check levels before adding any coolant. Awesome to hear about how it feels! Sean is a GREAT source of information! You can take what he says and make it scripture if you ask me.
Thats a relief. Sean told me the same thing, but I was just a little concerned. If I can sell my guitar amp, I'll have enough to get an AEM Wideband from Motiva. They said they would let me have it for $200. Is that a good price? Or can you recommend anywhere else to get one locally?
I was going to post this up a thread this weekend but I'll give you first stab at it. AGP hard pipes (black) with HKS BOV (black) and block off plate-$250 AEM UEGO wideband- $150 Aeroforce Scan gauge-$150 Dual a pillar gauge pods-$30 Thermal 3" o2 housing back exhaust-$400 Mopar CAI with AEM dry flow filter-$100 Cermaic coated turbo heat shield- $30 Coil pack heat shield- $10 AGP WGA-$100 FM WGA-$125
