I have made a couple posts on the topic of tuning for forced induction, and several people have asked for some video of the iEMS3 and my Turbocharged 5.7 Hemi Cherokee. There are two videos, the first is a low boost video at part throttle (about 4 psi). The second video is of a 1/4 mile run. Both shot in cabin. In both videos, pay attention to the upper left hand corner of the gauge pod, next to the white lit gauge, you will see a green light illuminate indicating boost as the water/meth spray has activated at 1/3rd lb psi. Next to this light is the AFR gauge, while the video is not super clear, you can make out the numbers and you will see the AFR go from 14.8 to around 12.8 when the green light comes on in both the first video at part throttle, and the second video where I have it stalled on the converter around 4 psi of boost. Then when it launches, you will see the AFR drop to a low 11 and then around 10.5 AFR through the run as the boost goes to 7-8 psi. When I let off, in both examples, you will quickly see the AFR return back to a 14.7 AFR. The iEMS3 is controlling the fuel injectors, timing retard, boost control, and progressive water/meth injection all with a single electronic device. The factory ECU file is completely stock as is the engine. Turn UP the volume! And go full screen mode. Please note that this video was shot on an abandoned, limited access roadway with no traffic, only one way in or out, water on both sides, and no possibility of any pedestrians!
I know who you are speaking of, I made an update post on another forum where you were asking if there was any news, possibly you did not see that. In a nutshell, I spent 4 days of testing on his unit in the vehicle you see in the video, and there is nothing wrong with the unit. I even sent back an extra unit (the one from the vehicle in the video) so they would have two units to double check with. The only way I could develop a similar issue as they are having was by reversing the polarity on my upstream O2 sensors which wiped the sensors and caused me to replace them to regain normal function. This is a possibility on that vehicle (one of several), but everything at this point points to an issue with the vehicle, either wiring or possibly sensors. The only way the sensors could be damaged is either by age or by being connected incorrectly, neither a fault of the unit itself. Hopefully they will figure it out now that they have had the units back before the holidays.
Don't know what happened but is there any way to engineer in "fail safes"? So if you get a reading or signal that's out of bounds it just goes to a default/alarm mode like a constant pig rich with all the timing pulled?
In the case I mentioned, according to the info I was provided, it runs great on the dyno in WOT, the issue is at idle or just off idle. As soon as it would warm up, and switch to closed loop, the RPM's would start to drop, the vacuum would degrade as if the TB was going open, and then the idle AFR would climb to around 18 where it would start to stumble and then die. This is based on the descriptions that were provided to me, and that was exactly what mine started doing after I switched the leads, and then put them back to the normal connection (after the O2 sensors were damaged). So the current indications point to an issue with the O2 sensors, but this has not been confirmed. It can be set so that if an over boost condition took place, it could pull maximum timing (up to 9 degrees retard) and dump fuel to go pig rich. One of the unused digital outputs could also be set to trigger a warning light and/or a buzzer at a certain boost level as well. The electronic boost control can also be set to limit boost to the waste gate spring rating if it is connected to read Throttle Blade position thereby limiting boost in part throttle boost conditions as well when below a certain TPS voltage. Apparently it is also at or near the physical limitations of the fuel system.
