VERY limp mode LOL. took it down and scanned it. got the code(s), and reset it. by the way the P2074 was in there 2 times. one was in there, and one was "pending". just dont get it. like i said i just gapped the plugs. that was it!:stars:
Well it could be that the first 2074 has been pending and there are a certain number of cycles that have to run before it throws the code. I'm not entirely sure though gotta look up the conditions for that code. Just out of curiosity what kind of plugs are you running? I would get the bleeder in and a boost leak test done asap that may help solve alot of your problems.
Any help you can give me would be most appreciated, as far as finding out the conditions for the P2074.:friends: The plugs that are in the car are Champion 3570. Did the boost leak test. Had a pretty good one where the cold side of the intercooler goes into the boot. got that fixed...stupid worm clamp! Anyway, found one where the line comes out of the back of the turbo too. Got the 3/16 line and fixed that too. So, no leaks anywhere else, at all. Checked, checked and checked again. Bleeder in too. Now, the real kick in the teeth...9lbs of boost. Granted, it is alot quicker to go into boost, and it is faster now. but 9lbs? WTF?
Everything that I have read on this Larry points to either a boost leak or a bad wga. So I'm guessing the only thing left is to replace the wastegate.
9 lbs? hmmmmm Did you by any chance look at your boost gauge while you were doing a boost leak test? I typically set my regulator on my air compressor to 20-25 psi and verify with my boost gauge. Also what psi did you test your system to?
didnt have an exact reading, had to borrow the compressor and it didnt have a gauge that worked, but from what my girl said the needle went to 20. so i would have to say between 20-30. i am pretty sure my gauge is wrong. when the car is not running it reads 5 inches of mercury. so it is at least that far off. so i am assuming that it is running lower boost that 9lbs. anyway, did it again and again until there was no noise comming out of anywhere. even hit it with the soapy water. positive there is no leaks. :ilovesrtc: when driving home the gauge went to 12 and held, so maybe it is my computer relearnin? i had the cables disconnected by the way! this is so strange to me. one day the car runs great, the next it doesnt. one day i have 15lbs of boost, the next i got 9lbs, and then i have 12lbs...:help: i am getting the horse laugh too from my bov. the adjustment bolt was stripped out so i have to get another one! bolt that is!
Well a leaky BOV might cause you some issues was it leaking pressure while you were testing? If your needle is reading 5 inches of mecury I would think that it is boosting higher than you are reading. Probably something like 2.5 psi higher since inches of Hg=0.5 psi At sea level 12 psi sounds about right to me weather dependent it may go up and down a bit. When I was stock I would run close to 15 psi in the heat and 10 in the cold remember it is trying to maintain constant power.
got the new bolt/nut for the BOV. borrowing a boost gauge to see exactly what it is running. 9lbs on mine, and 14-15lbs on the borrowed gauge.
you know it!!!!:dance4: i cant thank you enough for all the pointers and help man!:thumb2: http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15520
p2074 i know what the code is. now why is it throwing it all of the sudden? have not done anything to the car but change the oil. and put on a 3in exhaust. i do not see how that would make the car throw p2074
Did you reset the ECU after you installed the exhaust? I believe you are right that an exhaust and oil change wouldn't cause it to throw a code. Its probably a coincidence go back and do a boost leak test.
as a matter of fact i did not reset the ecu...oh: i am going to leak test it this afternoon after eating some bird!
Rule of thumb... When a check engine light comes on and nothing was changed/upgraded on the car. Check and note the code down. Reset the pcm by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and leaving it disconnected for 20-30min. Reconnect it and the pcm has been reset, it will relearn its parameters again and erase codes. If the same code comes back recently THEN you have a problem. Sometimes these pcm's are picky and will throw a false code and sometimes to never be seen again. I've had it happen a couple times. Do a boost leak test and reset the pcm.
SO what do you do with the red line that is not hooked up to anything to get the p1188 code from going off?
