OR an easy way to do it is unplug - terminal. Pull out ASD fuse. Let car sit for 30 minutes. Put fuse back in then connect battery.
I was told that everything won;t be reset if you just unplug the - terminal for a little bit of time and plug it back in. Guess thats not the case. And pulling the fuse makes it so you don't have to wait overnight...
Well the negative terminal means that all of the electronics no longer have a path to grounding terminal on the battery. So you need to wait for all of the capacitors on the power supplies and other circuits to discharge. Thats why I said 5 to 10 minutes. It doesn't take over night but if the car is parked and you are going to bed why not just leave it unplugged overnight. In essence you are just disconnecting the + and - terminals from the ECU by removing the fuse. Its really kinda redundant you just need to break the path of electron flow from the battery which the - terminal does.
i left it un hooked for an hour and a half. didnt leave it off all night. i go to work at 5am so the last thing i want to do at that time of the day is mess with my battery. anyway, i left it unhooked, positive, AND negative, and it didnt reset anything but the clock on my stereo. i didnt lose station presets or anything...WTF? still running 10 lbs boost, but still no light! LOL
OK thats weird try this unhook just the negative side and then go and pump the brakes a few times for good measure. That should drain any remaining energy in the system.
almost sounds like the radio has a back up of some kind not really sure. Every time I have unhooked my - terminal on the battery left it for at least 5 to 10 minutes and the ECU was reset. Same for mains's car, mike's car, sean's, and other sean's car. Have you done a boost leak test yet?
going to try it, there has got to be a way, maybe like stillaneon said. havent got to do the leak test yet, kind of strapped for cash this week, car pmt:grin:, insurance:grin:, and parole:mad2:. next wednesday for sure tho and you got yours to reset the way you told me?
still have not got the ecu to reset...:dumb: had some time today so i thought i would get under the car and see if there were any obvious leaks in my intercooler piping. ran across some interesting stuff, well interesting to me at least. in picture 1 and 2, i found this NICE clamp that was stripped out. in picture 3, i found that the clamp that was stripped was holding the rubber boot on the raised parts of the intercooler outlet. i am no rocket scientist, but wouldnt that let out a conciderable ammount of air?:erm: in picture 4, i found the bolt and nut on my bov was BARELY on there. you could turn it by hand. corrected all the above, but i am still running 10 lbs of boost. but it is conciderably quicker to spool up now, and throttle time has increased.:grin: not too sure if it is because of what i did or what
I hate to say it but who ever had your car before you fucked it up alot and didn't care what they were don't to it when it was parted out
Dude your ECU should be reset if you unplugged the - terminal and left it undone for a while. If you have a scan gauge look at your fuel trims they should all be at 0 I believe. That will tell if your ECU was reset or not. Plus your engine light should be off. What codes do you still have? Just the P1188? What kind of BOV is that? A knock off HKS? Or it is just an old one? The new ones don't have an adjustment nut on them. Just eBay "SRT-4 boost leak tester" Get one for around $30 shipped. Solving boost leaks and all is nice but it won't get rid of your code. If you really never want to see it again get a Stage 1 PCM. or a DiabloSport Predator.
So thats what you were doing... I would get all t-bolt clamps later on. The nut on top of the BOV is to adjust the "spring rate" of it. Throttle time has increased?? Do you mean throttle response? lol I know... but stil had to. OT but wtf is the black thing in pic 1?
not throwing any codes now. just weak boost. $30 shipped? lol i will make one for WAY cheaper than that. thanks anyway your tellin me. the more i look the more i find! lol it keeps me busy, and i like the challenge it is the older hks w/purple insert. going to go get the clamps probibly when i get the stuff for the tester. figured out the nut adjusts the spring rate after it was making crazy noises when i tightened it up! lol i got that adjusted tho. guess i should have said it decreased! the cord to the fryer...
Well thats cool. I know of a local that pieced one together and it cost him $27. I guess he was shopping at the wrong store or something. T-bolts are a PITA to mess with. Worm clamps are fine. I am spinking 26lbs holding 22 to redline with no problems with my worm clamps.
the reason i say i can make one cheaper is i got most of the stuff to do it. just need to get the fittings. cost me 10-15 tops. i dont have any problems with my worm clamps now, it is that i want all of it to match, clamps and nut sizes. it is alot easier to use one tool to work on something than it is to use 3. i am having a very strange issue now. sometimes i have boost, sometimes i dont. by this i mean i can get on it and it will go to 1lb, let my foot off the gas and put it back on and i got 12lbs...WTF? bad wastegate? messed up ecu?
P1188 And P2074 Alright, got off work early today. Had nothing to do, it was nice outside, so I figure I will go pull my spark plugs. Check the gap, and see if they are fouled ect... Pulled them and this is what i found, plug 1 = .029, plug 2=.023, plug 3=.045, and plug 4=.028. I gapped them to .045 and took her for a spin, you know to see it if made a diffrence. Well, IT DID! Threw P1188 after not throwing it for almost 2 weeks. And now it threw P 2074 Manifold Pressure/Throttle Position Correlation-High Flow/Vacuum Leak... All I did is gap the plugs! WTF? I am at a loss for words. I am pretty sure I can correct the P1188, by putting the bleeder in the line. I have one that came off of it. Has anyone ever even heard of such a thing?:sick:
