alright, now i only have two lines from my turbo... my first guess is that it is the red and the blue. the reason i say this is that i have the aftermarket BOV, and the stock BOV is the pink line... correct? ok....so let me see if i got you correctly. i need to swap the black wga and the green? and i need to run my sensor to the middle port on the red solenoid, and run a "jumper" from the top of the blue solenoid to the top of the red as my boost source? first you say to cap off all three ports on the red solenoid, and then you say to run a line to the center port on the red...
alright man...got it all hooked up exactly the way you said to do it. here are some pics of the way i did it!:gotpics: swapped the wga and the green. thought it wasnt right, wasnt getting more that 8psi of boost! ran the red middle port of the solenoid to the sensor. "jumped" the top port of the blue solenoid to the top of the red. and capped off the bottom port of the blue solenoid. going to autozone right now to erase the code (p1188) and see how it runs. hopefully this will take care of the issue!:stars: thanks for all the info gentlemen!:thanks:
indeed i did! LOL took them off to get a better pic of the vac lines. took it out, and dogged the hell out of it! 1st through 5th. got it up to 150 comming back to the house. had great boost, awesome throttle response, and best of all no light...yet. we will see when i am comming home from work tomorrow afternoon. but i drove it way harder than i ever do comming home from work, so i do not see it comeing back on again. thanks a million kingnate!:worthy:
The blue dot solenoid should have nothing conencted to it. The blue line from the turbo should hook up to the top port of the red dot solenoid. Did you happen to see what boost level the car was spiking at? What boost gauge are you running?
a glowshift boost gauge. I can't answer the rest as I wasn't with him when he completed putting everything back together. Edit: On the blue dot solenoid does anything need to be capped off on it?
I cap off all 3 ports just to keep dirt and other shit out of them. You aren't going to be using that solenoid at all since you have an after market BOV so its your call.
p1188 p1188 p1188!!!! alright, so i hook up the blue line from the turbo to the top port of the red solenoid, and cap off all three blue ports. lets give that a try...
This is what we currently have setup. The red line goes to a senser on the driver side fender. Edit: We assume that the pink line is where the stock BPV would be at.
You don't have the green line T'd in with the BOV do yah? You do have the TIP sensor plugged in correct? The blue line should go to the UPP that you have capped. I was thinking about putting it where you have it too... Guess it really doesn't work out. Please refer to the solenoids as 1 2 and 3. 3 is the middle one. Nothing should be connected to it unless caps on the solenoid. Number 1 solenoid has the white and red lines connected to it. Switching those around won't do anything with that blue line you have posted Number 2 solenoid you have correct.
The only thing that is T'd is the BOV. Nothing is connected to 3(blue) all 3 ports are capped. This car doesn't have any of the orig vac lines on it and didn't when we got it.
From the pic it looks like he has the tip plugged in and he cant run a line to the UPP since there is no way to connect to it. The AGP and similar UPP get rid of the red line to help with partial boost problems. The blue line probably isn't working since it is directly from the turbo not the UPP which is probably going to read at least 2 to 3 psi higher. Which is why I told him to hold onto the white coupler. Go and install the coupler as close to the tip sensor as possible and see if that takes care of the code.
Right the plastic piece (the one you removed that had one side capped off) is actually a bleeder so you are going to want to put it in line with the line going to the tip sensor. In essence you are creating a controlled boost leask so the tip sees less boost that what is actually there. The problem is 05's are notorious for being picky as hell about the tip sensor. If this was an o3 or an o4 you wouldn't have this problem.
think that got it this time. have drove the car like 60 miles since yesterday and the code hasnt come back.:worthy: but now i got another issue. under wide open throttle i am only gettin about 10 lbs on my boost. before i was getting 16-18lbs.:stars: now i got no light and weak boost pressure.oh: going to go get the stuff from home depot to make a tester. i need to get pvc, pvc cap, male quick connect, pressure gauge, and a clamp...correct?:dumb: thanks a million kingnate!:friends:
16 to 18 psi on a stock wga and s0 ecu is the reason you had all these problems so don't be surprised to see it drop. Have you reset the ECU since you added the bleeder?Its been awhile and someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the s0 throws an over boost code at 16 and the s1 at 18. Another thing to look at is what gear are you in at wot. 3rd gear will give you full boost 1 and two are restricted a bit so you can actually keep what little traction there is. Another thing that will effect boost levels (and I am speaking only to pcm controlled boost) is temperature, ambient pressure etc. On a hot and dry day you will run a bit more boost than on a very cold day. The ecu's on these cars are setup for constant power meaning it will do everything it can to keep you at what it beleives is the maximum. There are ways around that but lets shake the bugs out of your car first. As far as building a tester I used a 2" sewer elbow, 2" pvc pipe, 2" pvc pipe cap, male compressor nipple and I sealed it with this metal plumbers epoxy (its a long white and gray roll that you nead in your fingers and then apply). One thing to make sure of is to ruff up the inside of the sewer elbow where it will attach to the turbo otherwise it will pop off and its loud as shit and annoying. One last thing make sure the key is NOT in the on position when you boost leak test.
i kind of figured it was a computer control issue when it comes to the limited boost pressure. it is the same through all 5 gears. i didnt reset the ECU because i didnt have to add the bleeder...yet. as far as ambient temp it is about 90 degrees, with 70-80% humidity, and i am about 10-15 ft above sea level. not too sure about ambient air pressure, pretty sure it is about normal for florida. so would that mean that i am going to make less boost? just got used to running the higher boost pressure, so it was noticable right away to me. do you think i need to disconnect the battery and go ahead and reset the ECU just so that it is going to reconize what has been done and run what it thinks is optimum boost/horsepower?
Thats where I would start give the ECU a change to optimize everything. After you do that I would start looking into the gauge. When you boost leak test make sure the pressure on the air compressors regulator matches what your gauge is reading.
