I am having some strang clutch issues. My clutch, well i think it is my clutch is amking a strange noise. it started about 3 days ago. the first day it happende it was a LOUD high pitched squeel. It did it in gear and out. Moving or not. It freaked me right the hell out so i shut it down. Waited about an hour, cranked it up and it made the same noise, only alot quieter. I noticed that it doesnt make the noise when you hold the clutch in. It starts this light tapping noise instead of the squeeling. It had done it ever sense. I am experiencing no slippage, no problem getting into gear, out of gear, down shifting or any of that...was told by someone elsewhere that it sounded like a throw out bearing issue. Does anyone know what it could be? I am not trying to tear up my pride and joy! Thanks for any help!:cry:
Hmmmmmm well the only thing I can think of is that it has some wear and the rivits ok the disk are hitting the flywheel
that does sound a like a throw out bearing, probably a throw out fork as well, how many miles are on the car?
90,000 miles. I have all of the service records. The car has had all the required maintenance done to it. Guess that that would make sense though. No telling how the car was driven before I got it. Taking it to the shop in the morning. Just wanted to get you guys input before I went up there and they tried to tell me a bunch of BS:bs:. You know how it goes with that. I do have a question though, is it common for a throw out bearing to go out before the clutch wears out and needs to be replaced? I understand premature failure, just want to know if it is common. And if it is the rivits hitting the flywheel, how bad can that be? Am I going to need to get a new flywheel too? I wouldnt think that rivits could do that much damage. But if I was sure of that I wouldnt be asking now would I? lol The shop told me that it sounded to them like I just needed a simple adjustment. It is a little bit aggervating to have this going on and I have only had the car for a week. But I am going to ride it out. I wanted one of these cars since I saw one new in '04. I will let you know what the verdict is when I find out! Thanks guys!:worthy:
it is extemely common for the throw out forks to wear very prematurely, causing a host of transmission issues, mine was absolutely trashed at 35k. i would plan on changing to a new cryotreated TOF, and a non modular clutch setup very very soon EDIT: the srt clutch setup is a modular one, that meaning the pressure plate, friction disc, and flywheel are all one non-separateable part, in short you will have to replace the whole thing if one is bad, this is why many people (including me) have switched to a non modular, traditional setup.
so what are we talking here? a few hundred? i got a extended power train warranty from the dealer I got it from. so that should cover what the issue is right now. but i would like to upgrade what i can when i can. beings that i just got the car, and have never been around them so to speak i do not know what mods if any have been done. what is the best place to start? thanks for the info! awesome piece of info! makes sense to be able to have access to the indivigual parts instead of having to replace a whole lot of things that someone thought was a good idea to make into one unit!
well if you still have the warranty take it in and let them pay for it, but make sure you get an itemized list of what was done. if they repair it properly it will last for quite a while. take some pics of under the hood, especially towards the firewall and post them up, i'm sure we can help you identify some mods. EDIT: another retarded drawback of the modular system is that they use an extremely thin flexplate to attach the assembly to the crank, i bent/tore two while the car was 100% stock.
well...just went and picked the car up. what a joke! they knew nothing about the car! lol they called me and told me i need a new clutch, which i dont. i need a muffler...lol the car has a pre cat, that is it, no cat. the person who had the car before me took off the dual exit out the back. for what reason i will never know. just a turn down pipe over the rear. that is somethin else i will have to repair. no problem though. now, on to the throw out bearing...lol my extended service plan doesnt cover anything that has to do with the clutch. oh joy! its alright though, take it in stride you know. oh they had no clue about the modular system. i was telling them stuff about the car that they had no idea about. i knew better than to let toyota guys look at a dodge. what was i thinking?:dumb: oh i know, that is who i purchaced it from! lol that will never happen again! the service manager told me, and i dont know weather to believe it or not, that the throw out bearing starting to fail will have no adverse effect on clutch wear. told me that it will not hurt to drive it that way, it will only make it hard to shift, which i have not noticed at all. is this true? i plan on doing as you suggested by doing away with the modular set up, probibly in about two months. i think it will take me that long to save up for it. by the way where do i look for the set up you were mentioning? i found all this quite funny, not the issue, but the idiots that were telling me what i needed to replace. thanks for the input, and info you provided. super helpful! i will take some pics of the car when the weather lets up, should be pretty soon, looks like the rain is starting to let up
??? I think I remember when I was a kid driving around in friends junkers that when the throw out bearing went you couldn't disengage the clutch. If you were rolling you could just shift without the clutch (you know, match the rpms for the gear you were heading for as you went through neutral). Get it into 1st before stopping at the light and just turn it off. Start the car in first when the light turned green. When the battery died you were done for the night.
LOL i used to have a 67 chevy truck when i was 14, thats how i used to have to drive it. the issue with my car is no where as extreme, and hopefully it will never get that way. i am looking into upgrading the clutch, flywheel, fork, etc. looking for parts right now. you know where to find any of this? thanks!
Sorry, I'm totally clueless about the SRT4's. There are a bunch on here who will help you out though.
If u get a clutch get a ACT kit,throw out fork and pivot ball and call it a day modular clutchs suck and when they start slipping they can explode from the heat
this is what i have found... ACT 03-05 Dodge Neon SRT4 Turbo (Conversion kit-includes flywheel) Heavy Duty Performance Street Clutch Kit $802 shipped should this be what i am looking for? i like the way it sounds in the ad. does anyone know anything about this set up?
That one is wayyyyy to much u can get them for like 590 shipped I would link it but I'm on my itouch now I will later when I turn my laptop on
thats around what i paid too, but it looks like the prices have risen, i think i paid somewhere around 600, i cant find them now for under 800. ACT is the setup to go with, you're gonna need to get the throw out fork as well, dont forget that. when the throw out bearing really fails, it will not be fun, and it will probably break other things. i would not recommend the "rev-match" driving method if it does fail, the srt4's synchros are not strong enough to handle that, park it and call a tow truck.
There's 2 vendors on the srtforums that go back and forth of each other one is REV and the other is TH or something I'll find out
O c'mon. It just takes a little bit of skill. synchros aren't even used if you do it right. Let off or step on gas to where you're not accelerating or slowing down in current gear and it will slip right out of gear and into neutral. Then either rev or let the rpms drop to exactly match the rpm you're going to have in the gear you're aiming for (should be able to do that by ear) and it will slip right in. Lol, I would NOT recommend it either. Much easier to do with a big motor that winds up and winds down a lot slower and that you've been driving forever...
