Fear is a great motivator. So that would be a yes. I always hope for the best, but think and plan for the worst.
I hope you get thing going soon Chris, hang in there, i promise...it gets better.... Edit: Oh, snap...I shoulda read the whole thread...SAWEET news!
man i was surpised that there was no blower bashing on this. glad it was just a fuse. was it the one for the boost-a-pump, because those suck. that's why i have made a bypass for it on 1fastsedan, sdcarguy, stretch, and mine. i added a wheather pack connector at the fuel pump wiring under the seat. that way when (not if) it blows the fuse you can just install a jumper plug and drive it home. a $5.00 connector is way better then a $150.00 tow bill anyday.
Yes on the boost-a-pump fuse. I have a wire nut should it happen again while I'm on the road as well as a spare fuse. Strange really, the shop purchased 2 ProCharger kits at the same time, mine came with a 40amp fuse, the other with a 30amp fuse. Mine with the 40amp fuse blew. Very strange. Mother Mopar - I feel it more than you may know. Your story changed the way I thought about my car. I'm driving the car very cautiously now. I keep my rpms below 2,000 for the most part to stay out of a boost situation and part throttle. Then when I decide to romp on it, I make sure I have plenty of room to run out the boost. I may do 1 or 2 WOT runs per trip. I do my best to stay out of the 2K to 3K operating range. Although I've been told my tune is very conservative and that as soon as my car is in boost (i.e. 1psi or higher) my car is no longer in closed loop operation. My goal is to have this car last at least another 35K miles with the supercharger. That will put at 100K miles. At that point, if I need to forge the motor than so be it.
i see you have read the thread on part throttle boost...... lol do you have a boost and a/f gauge chris??? if not, get them!! i watch mine a little closer now!! stay away from boost and 14.x a/f and hope for all to be good!! lol
relax david........ my comments were "tongue and cheek" in nature! lol yes, the egt gauge will likely be going in very soon!!! probably right after i finally install my new convertor!!! man, i can't seem to find time to do anything other than work!!! :cry:
Oh good! With AFR gauges it seems that Bosch sensors are the defacto standard along with standard bungs and almost everybody uses them. That doesn't seem to be the case with EGT sensors... Looks like there are just boat loads of different sensors, manufacturers, configurations, materials, sheathed or not, fittings/bungs/threaded, etc., etc. After you do the extensive research and review all the reviews post up on the very best couple of them for our application. (I'm going PLX on the module which takes a K couple? sensor, but I think that's the common technology). (as always, don't forget the part numbers :thumb2
you kill me dave!!! lol i love you man!!!!!!! on a serious note, you are not kidding!! i started doing some very preliminary research.....wow, lots of choices!!! i will let you know what i find..... or better yet, you are a much better research person than me..... tell me what you are getting and why and i will go with that!!! lol i trust you buddy!!!! you have never let me down before!!!
Just putting this out there, AEM sells a wideband guage that is pretty accurate and it only runs around $275. We've tested several of them against the wideband on our dyno and they are always within .1-.2 of what the dyno shows. Has anyone made a gauge pod for these cars other than the A pillar pod? If you have side airbags, then you can't (shouldn't) mount on the A pillar.
I hope the B-A-P is wired through a relay directly off the battery?If not you better invest in fuses cause they will be popping alot.
Mine is mounted that way Erik. The fuse and small ass gauge wiring from the MSD BAP will still fry if you do not let the cars electronics warm up before starting the car.
The diffence is those rat crooks denied it and kept doing it to KNOWING there was a problem. The latest guys seems to back up the parts and engines. .