Lets talk about Clutches!

Seems like there are so many different opinions on clutches and what to go with. I talked to Bob via FFperformance and he said that the SouthBend clutches are good because they focus more on torque than your ACT/Clutchmaster type of clutches that care more about HP and high revs... Thats just an opinion. He said that he is running a Southbend with no problems, car runs great.

I am a little over 70k on stock clutch and it feels fine... But I know I will have to upgrade since I am going to be pushing around 320whp/More torque or so with Stage 3. Maybe more power.

So what is everyone running as an upgraded clutch? And what do you guys recommend with my setup?

Probably a bad topic to start since people will say XXX brand sucks and then someone else will chime in and be like BS, XXX brand rules I have had no problems with my XXX brand clutch. :dumb:

 

*waits for Goats to step in*

 

We have used EVERY brand of clutch for an SRT4.

The only two you should use are SBC or ACT. We had a ton of bad luck with ACT years ago. We have recently had good luck with them and I hear their new line is doing very well.


It all depends on your setup and goals as to what I would recommend

 

330ish whp daily driver on pump gas. Want something that will last and will take the abuse when I get on it. Not so much dig racing. 90% of the time I get on it is from a roll.

 

My wife's S3 SRT-4 is running the SBC Stage 3 clutch. Haven't had any problems with it and its great.

 

Ide love to but I dont have one cause im in a crappy automatic.

 

LMAO

OK heres the deal im not going to mention brands but i will mention types

Modular=POS the reason i say this is if it starts to slip u need to be real carefully and not have it slip alot cause the flywheels are cast iron and reall cant take the heat of a slipping clutch so theres a chance it can blow up and also i dont care what anyone says cause ive tested this on different motors the modular clutch will NEVER sit flush on the flexplate due to the FACT that the flexplate to crank bolts heads are too long and causes the flexplate to flex and cause a wobble and a wobble will cause a vibration issue and there more money to replace also and u have to deal with a flexplate

NON-Modular=FTW is basicly a real clutch the flywheels are made of steel and can take the heat of slippage with out blowing up most non-modular clutchs have more clamping force,and the balanceing is alot better also and no wobble or flexplate

if u plan on making power and can afford it get a NON-Modular clutch

 

To bad there isnt a thank you nod system on this board. I agree 100%


For the OP, I would recommend the stage 2RS from SBC. It will handle 450wtrq, has an improved pressure plate, and a STEEL non-modular flywheel. Best of all, it drives great.


http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f213/new-re-designed-non-modular-southbend-clutches-443580/

They are $900 plus shipping retail. Im offering them for $850 shipped right now.


Your other choice is a stage 3 modular. These are much cheaper and have worked very well. However you have the inherited risk with the stock flywheel and flexplate being in the equation. Price is $535 shipped. These are rated at 450wtrq as well

 

yep thats why im the M.F.I.C. lol

 

MFIC?

Well, the flywheel is supposed to be resurfaced when you get a new clutch installed. Was your resurfaced?


$315 difference between the non modular and the modular. Hmmm if its totally worth it I will do it.

Non modular easier to install?

Would also need a need a new OEM TOB and OEM clutch fork correct?

http://www.moparsupercenter.com/clutch-fork-srt4-factory-replacement4725612aa.html?cat=824

 

When u replace a modular u replace the whole thing u can't reserface the flywheel but on a non modular u can resurface the flywheel and get a new pressure plate and disk so I'm the long run a non modular Is cheaper in the end and yes u still need a new tob and sometimes a new fork and install is just as easy

 

^^^ Yep.

Think about what he is saying. Modular = clutch/flywheel all one piece. You cant resurface that


The non-modulars are the way to go hands down. Pay more now, save later. Not only that you will have a MUCH more durable setup with a non-mod

 

Would this be considered a non-modular since it includes a new flywheel? Doesn't really tell if its all one or its seperate.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-...002QQitemZ120357778737QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Yes that's a non modular clutch all ACT clutches are like that

 

Whats your view on ACT and that deal I posted? I mean if its $550 and comes with all that. Sounds pretty good for a non modular. So when did ACT "correct the problem" they had in the past? What was this problem?

Also I am confused.

But if you replace a modular is comes with a new flywheel correct? So you wouldn't need to resurface it since its new. Then when it goes bad you get another new modular setup.

 

I'm running the ACT 6 puck sprung and I love it and u can get a better deal at revelation motorsports and when it's time to do a clutch again it will be half the cost with the non modular cause u don't need a new flywheel cause the non modular can be resufaced

 

me too...and no complaints! had to replace the release fork, so figured i'd replace the clutch while it was all taken out. Got it from Rev Motorsports, took them forever send it out..but it was fairly cheap. Not makin a lot of power, but I've been to the track almost every week and this clutch takes whatever I throw at it so far

 

Yup, thats what I am going to go with.. Should I get the ACT 6 puck sprung or the ACT street setup?

 

Well it all depends on the power level your on if your going to the track and plan on using slicks or DR

 

I visit the track pretty much every week and plan on going big turbo so I went with the 6-puck sprung