kevan you really think thisis not going to work? what abou tthe liganfelter vetts they have catch cans just like the one I made? If you realy think this is not going to work let me know I will change it before I dyno is and tune it ^ the oil I get in my can is clean it looks just like the oil that I drain out when I do oil changes so if that is why you think it will not work I am not worried about that.
Here's what my 'catch cup' looks like 24 hours after I've dumped the "Jamocha Shake" crap from the catch can out of it: Do you REALLY want any of that crap fed back into your oiling system?
You got issues there bud. I have never seen this type of burned sediment. You engine oil temp must be pretty high!! I have run a catch can on my 2006 and now 2008 Jeep. You may consider switching to 15-50 or 20-50 oil. .
^ HOLY CRAP. I have never seen any thing like that before. My oil doesnt look any thing like that ever! Yea I agree kevan if I was you I wouldnt return yours to the oil pan either.
Change to a thicker oil on a $25,000 engine? No thanks. What you're seeing are not 'issues' or the oil running too hot (It stays at about 180º-185º). Part of it is my style of driving (harder than MJ at a Little Mister Perfect pageant), another part is the climate (4 seasons), another is run time (usually long periods; yearly 2000 mi., 14-hr. road trip), and lastly is type of engine (Viper V10). If you idle your engine for an hour, you're probably not going to 'catch' anything. You're not really pushing the engine at all. Scoot around for 4-5 hours straight, with plenty of romps on the GO pedal. Drive it like it's rented and your can will fill. (NOTE: 4-5 trips down the dragstrip probably wont put anything in the can either.) Part of the 'sediment' in there is cooked oil vapor. The Viper engine runs at least 2x as hot (outside) as the HEMI engines. As the vapor gets released and passed through the hoses on it's way to the catch can, it gets baked nicely. I've had that cup for almost 2 years, so there's A LOT of stuff that's been in/out of that cup. Probably not the best visual example, but it's close. As I said, the stuff that normally comes out of the catch can is a mix of water and oil and resembles a jamocha shake from Arby's (same color and consistency). If it'd stop snowing, I'd grab Keith and a video camera and do my own KenBlock video and fill that can up in a few hours. EDIT: Here's a pic I found after doing a quick google search- Reference: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3676673 .....and those are little Audi's!
No Thanks That light brown is indicative of moisture in your oil. Condensation or coolant seepage. Check these articles out......they dont want to admit it is the lighter oils because of the federal laws requiring improved gas mileage.... These two make great reading. Toyota was the first to suspect thin oils cooking themselves out of viscosity range. There is all kinds of articles on this that affect BMW/Mercedes/Chrysler/GM/Volkwagen. You can "google" engine sludge.......light oils.....NO THANKS! This one actually states "lighter oils" as one factor http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/305601547 http://www.ripoffreport.com/reports/0/354/RipOff0354721.htm http://www.swri.org/4ORG/d08/global/BlckSldg/default.htm .
I don't think you have to worry about it. Worst case is that you suck oil into the manifold. You'll see a lot of white smoke and possibly you foul a plug or two. I think that would be about as bad as it could get. (actually worst case would be the hose coming off the oil pan and your oil draining out onto the road...)
Kevan, it appears that you are "cooking" the oil in your catch can. That's not what the catch can is catching. The only thing I can imagine is that you are catching oil and THEN it's cooking in the catch can. As far as the "milkshake" goes, you would have to be getting a lot of water. In the pictures it seems like an aweful lot than just from condensation? I don't think the pictures are valid anyway since they are not frrom our engines? I also don't agree with the premiss that romping on the gas will fill the catch can an quicker then normal driving. The catch can mainly catches oil droplets and vaporized oil. Most of the gasses don't condense and just pass through into the manifold. Sporadic romping on the gas pedal is likely to produce more blow by. blow by is primarily gasses and maybe some particulate matter. I think there is very little in blow by that would condense in a catch can. I don't know about the 10's but the 8's have oil squiters. I think they may contribute to the amount of atomzed oil in the crankcase which is passing through the PCV valve. I would expect RPM to be the main factor effecting how fast your catch can fills. Not engine load.
Sgt.- The "cooked" oil you see in the cup is from oil vapor IN THE CCV LINES getting 'cooked' OUTSIDE the engine. They didn't nickname the 2nd battery tray in the SRT-10's "The Burrito Warmer" for nothin'. You can ask Keith: First thing I do when I pull the truck into the garage is pop the hood. There's *that much* heat. INSIDE the engine, all is well. Temp has never been above 200ºF, even in August in Orlando in rush hour traffic with 1200 lbs. of gear in the bed. Oil temp has never been above 185ºF. There's no "oil cooking" (as you/BMW described) happening inside my engine. Mobil 1 0W-40 is, and has been, the OEM standard for the Viper engines for a very long time. Even the Comp. Coupe guys run 0W-40. No offense, but I think those guys drive a *little* harder than you and I. Thanks for the links to the articles, but they don't really apply here. - The first one states "Dodge Vehicles 1998 to 2002", and the guy praises syn. oil. - The second and third ones are in relation to Toyota V6's, which do not run syn. oil. (Sounds more like owner neglect more than anything else). - The last one gives a bunch of great baseline info (on a Merc. 4-cyl), but doesn't mention weight or even brand of oil they used. Oil breakdown is a different subject for a different thread. Quick- you're partly correct. Some of the "baking" is happening inside the catch can (once the gunk is in there). Some of it is happening inside the hoses (I cut open my old rubber hoses to find flakes in there). Some of it is from the questionable (at best) construction of the catch can itself. It's not filtered, so that stuff can get sloshed around in there, and accidentally run back into the lines....back and forth....again, and again.... The Viper valve covers have a filter on the underside of them, so solid pieces (like those flakes in the old tubes) can't get back into the oil system, but the liquid and semi-liquid can. As much as I dig the JMB, for my setup and driving style, I really need a CC with a filter. I need that gunk to get in there, and STAY in there. The jamocha shake reference was the only family-friendly description I could come up with. If you look at that jar from the Audi guy, you'll see WAY more water in his than I've ever seen in mine. The drain/petcock on my CC regularly clogs. That's due to both the "baking" happening inside the CC, and from the actual gunk being too thick to pass through the tiny hole. If it's that thick, and blocking that one small hole, imagine what something like that would do to an oil pick-up or an oil filter. There's no way in hell I'd send it back into the oil system.
Ok. but all your gunk is getting turned into gunk outside of the engine. Doesn't happen with the 8's (that I know of). We don't get those kinds of engine bay temps. I think our oil boils at something well over 350*? You're talking some serious heat to turn that into varnish.
Not sure why you needed this mod. Its one more thing you will have to monitor for leaks, etc. What did it cost to install?
Now if my oil in my catch can looked like that I would definately NOT put it back into the engine seeing you would have to scoop that out with a spoon, WOW! The oil in my catch can looks pretty good, do I think it would hurt putting it back into the engine? no. Do I recommend it? hells no! Back to the thread topic, I guess you have to make your own decision based on how your oil looks, loss of viscocity etc. But Kevans oil is bad wow, I would be worried if the Hemi engine had oil looking like that in the catch can.
CORRECTION: The Viper Comp Coupes run Mobil 1 15W-50 INTERESTING: The Comp Coupes come with a factory catch can. No one reads anymore, do they? It's all just pictures now. *sigh* The pic of my drain cup shows TWO YEARS of dried up crap that won't drain each time I empty the cup. Screw it. I'm tired of trying to describe it. I'm pulling that pic. What comes out of the catch can (at each fill up) has the same looks and consistency as a jamocha shake. Darker than vanilla; lighter than chocolate. (Am I the only one that eats at Arby's?) Want a better description? It looks like shit. The kind of shit you take when you're really sick with the flu. No solids; all liquid. So much for keeping it clean. Sorry folks. How bad is the stuff inside the catch can? On my road trip to Boston a while back, the catch can burped just before I got there. It had completely filled up and sent crap all over the engine bay (out of the top-mounted filter). It was like a gunk grenade went off under the hood. The shit was EVERYWHERE. I got back home and scoured the engine bay. The two parts that simply would not come clean (even with wicked semi-legal solvents) were the upper rubber insulators for mounting the A/C condenser. Here's what they looked like: That shot is AFTER I tried to clean them the first time. Replacing the part would have been easy, but there's no part number for those little guys. I eventually settled on a combination of Engine Cleaner and Palmolive, rotating the insulator between the two soak tanks at regular intervals. TWO DAYS LATER.....I had both insulators extremely clean. Not all of the stuff was off, but 98% of it was. Still want to route it back into your engine?
I would not reroute it back to my engine due vacuum leak, check valve issues etc, just another thing I would have to worry about. The oil in my catch can has never looked that bad though, even in my Jeep and I beat the piss out of that SRT8. Interesting to see that those Viper motors break down the oil that way.
So, given all this discussion, is it still wise to follow the manufacturers recommendation and use Mobil 1 0W-40 if I live in a warm state like California? Or at the next oil change should I switch to Mobile 1 15W-40 ??
